TNoel

Here are a few more pictures Sorry for the quality but here a few more pics. I suggest if your at all interested, come see it. The value is in the hardware/hardscape, IMHO. PM me for a phone number. Thanks, Tom

Here are a few pictures of the system. Give me a call at 541-484-4705, or PM. Please leave a message if no answer Thanks, Tom

Lowered the price I am now asking $600 for all of it. What a buy, huh?

System sold

I am shopping for a new skimmer. I have a 55 with a 7 gal refugium and will be building a new sump to fit the skimmer. My problem is hieght The door openings in my cabinet are 22". I am looking at the following because of hieght and recomendations I have seen in other threads here. ASM G-1 19" ASM G-2 21.25" Euro-Reef RS100 20" Octopus 150 nonRC 22" Any comments on these, or suggestions on a good quality, moderately priced ($200-300) dollar area, short stature skimmer are appreciated. I believe the ER and Oct collection cups have a zero height removal? I can't find much on the ASM, can anyone that uses them help me out here? Thanks, Tom

I did have bad motor on one that came on a used skimmer. It would run for an hour or so, shut down for a few minutes, rerstart on it's own

If you buy an assortment of crabs look out for fast one with a large left claw. I got one that raced around the tank, I called him turbo. I thought he was pretty cool until he started eating my snails. It got large enough to fill a turbo snail shell. I got rid of him after eating 3 turbos and numerous others.

Thanks, that's an awsome from both of you. I'm in the middle of a project right now, but I'm sure I will inviting you over in the very near future. I am looking forward to meeting you and picking your brains. Tom

Impur, has the change to Red Sea Coral Pro seemed to help with the Zoa problem you talked about a while back? Did you find some other problem, or are you still working on it. I am having a similar problem and I'm hoping a salt change will help. Any other suggestions. Tom

For fish I have 2 ocellaris, small sailfin tang, Coral Beauty, 6 line wrasse, and a tangaroa goby.

I feed once per day with ON formula one pellets. and usually twice a week I feed frozen mysis. My tank is a 55 gal with about 15 gal worth of sump/refug capacity. I do weekly 15 gal H20 changes. the tank readings I get are Amm = 0 Nitrites = 0 Nitrates = 0 pH = 8.2-8.4 Phos = 0 Cal = 280 (same as freshly made Crystal Seas) carb = 8 I've been trying to raise the calcium and carb numbers with kalk and liquid calcium, but I am going slow trying not to over do it. I have read here on other posts that some poeple have changed thier salt brands and cured similar problems.

Hi All, I've been hanging around here for awhile, and I thought I would get some opinions on an old subject. I've had my tank for about a year now. For the first six months everything was great. Then things began to change. String alea appeared, Coralline growth slowed, and my softies don't open up like they used to. I have been using Crystal Seas bioassay formula exclusivley. I have read here where a couple of people change with good results. I am just wondering what the current trends are for salt brands . Liquid sunshine says they are using Seachem. Has anybody tried Seachem? What brands do you guys think have the best chemistry/consistency, and least problems? Thanks, Tom

Hello, I just put together my RO/DI sytem, and I have a question about flow control. I have a 50 gpd membrane and my flow control says 300 on it. I think this is for a lower flow membrane (36 gpd maybe) does anybody know what effect this will have on my system. It is making good product, 0 ppm. I just am not sure what will be the long term effects, wasting too much H2O, shorter membrane life, etc. Thanks for any input, Tom

My tank is going on 3 1/2 months now. I had the diatom bloom. It only lasted a couple of weeks max. I may have been lucky, I got some killer rock from a LFS. Some one brought in some rock that was covered in corraline and I even got a mushroom and as small green starfish ( I see him every couple of weeks). The diatoms will pass, I am just getting some string now but it isn't too bad. Good Luck. Tom

It's fairly easy, but some people get confused with line/load side. The best way to protect a single receptacle is to pig tail and connect just to the load side. Otherwise you will be protecting every thing else down the line. What his means is if something down the circuit fails/shorts, it will take out your tank equipment as well.

Thanks for the info. Impur I really appreciate the offer, I may take you up on it, I'll let you know. We do all of our testing at 25 C . I will talk to a chemist next week to see how much difference the temperature difference would make, unless someone here knows. My water tested @1.3389 the LFS told me that was on the high side, but it looks to me that it is about right. What do you guys think. I am trying to figure out where my hydrometer is when the RI is correct. Thanks, Tom

Hello, I am fairly new to this hobby. My tank has been going for about 2 1/2 months now. Every thing has been going pretty well. My question is this. I have 2 different hydrometers. They read about 5 points difference. I have access at work to some high quality refractometers. Where can I find a chart to convert RI to salinity or specific gravity. I know some of the hand held, hobby models, already have the conversion, but the ones we use for QC don't. Thanks, Tom