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Any Bean animal pros out there? I may need help with setup/tuning


ChrisQ

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This has been going on since I Have been in the hobby, the herbie, Gurgle Buster and the Bean Animal probably others out there. When I bought my 180 it had the internal overflow box 24" high and a 6" stand pipe at the bottom that's what got me started. The water would crash down then the gurgle and air noise, I raised the stand pipe up and it was Ok still pretty loud though

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Thanks. It just seems way more involved than necessary, in my opinion. Still, your return flow should regulate your overflow. Matching a return flow to a restricted overflow will eventually flood. Keep that in mind and you should be ok. You should never have to reduce the overflow. Basic aquarium dynamics.

 

Of course we could take this up with Bean himself...   bean_zps9twfzetg.jpg

Edited by JManrow
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Some good posts there, still some things are unresolved, like water overflow needing to be reduce to avoid splashing. BeanAnimal still cannot submerge his overflow pipe because of the systems difficulty purging air. Best of luck with the system. I just see a lot of fine tuning involved. If he could find a way to silence the sound of bubbles in my skimmer that would be awesome!

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Yeah, I think you're making it too complicated. Just Google videos of people using Herbie overflows. They are totally silent and super easy.

 

Jman, while you can make a silent overflow without siphon, you can barely move much water without noise. If you want to be able to actually move a decent amount of water through the overflow, the silent siphon is perfect. These styles require that you have a gate valve to control the flow coming down the overflow. Once it is set, the water level doesn't change much. You might need to adjust it every couple weeks, but with a gate valve, it takes about 2 seconds. As long as you don't have too many T's, the piping should be able to clear the air bubbles.

 

I didn't notice a valve on your setup, am I missing something?

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I have no problem with this. The hobby has gotten to the point it is now through trial and error. We keep making improvements, just as you have. I use something very similar to the Herbie and have for many years. Please don't take the Mr. T meme too seriously. Some things are all in fun, and we need to have more fun here! WooHooo!! :yahoo:

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Yeah, I think you're making it too complicated.

 

 

I didn't notice a valve on your setup, am I missing something?

How?

 

And yes, i think you are. It's in the OP

 

I have no problem with this. The hobby has gotten to the point it is now through trial and error. We keep making improvements, just as you have. I use something very similar to the Herbie and have for many years. Please don't take the Mr. T meme too seriously. Some things are all in fun, and we need to have more fun here! WooHooo!! :yahoo:

Agreed, it will just be a lot easier to start having fun again when the select few are online that actually understand the system and can confirm my changes so i can finish my system and start replacing 3/4 of the coral i've lost and save the ones i have left.

 

As for the memes, they tend to lose their luster when your on here seeking help and losing livestock.

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Sorry about getting off topic. I am beginning to see how the restriction of flow is necessary for the siphons to work and how it would be necessary to be making occasional adjustments. My intention was not to make light of your situation, but to understand the system a bit better. I am truly sorry about your losses and have attempted to point out some possible problems with the system you seem to be having. I will leave further discussion to those that have been usefulness with the Bean Overflow. My apologies. Best wishes in finding assistance with this.

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Hey no problem John, the way that i understand it is the open channel (The drain with the airline) keeps the system stable. Its a "set it and forget it" as the flow goes up and down for varies reasons, the open channel keeps everything in check. There shouldn't be the "occasional adjustments" when working as designed, i just missed a few important details.

 

I wish i had the vocabulary like some of the guys over on RC to be able to explain it better

Edited by ChrisQ
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I haven't watched your video yet Chris but hope it is all straightened out.  For me, raising the level in the overflow was absolutely key to making it quiet.  Otherwise that 3,000 GPH of Jebao flow made allot of noise even in a 4' wide overflow.  Raising the level was key for noise.

 

The second key was the depth of the full siphon in the sump.  If it is too deep, sometimes the full siphon doesn't start right away.

 

I guess the third thing that helped was making sure the full siphon is quite a bit deeper than the durso.  The full siphon needs room to work without the durso kicking in right away.

 

You have done your homework so I doubt I am adding anything, but wanted to throw that out there.

 

I had problems with fittings (t and cap) being to tall also, I just cut them down (carefully) with a miter saw.  Use a piece of pipe to hold it when cutting, keep fingers away!

 

This can be absolutely dead silent.  There is absolutely no noise from my DC 12000 now yet it is moving allot of water.  All I hear are the powerheads pulsing on wave modes.

 

Good luck!

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I haven't watched your video yet Chris but hope it is all straightened out.  For me, raising the level in the overflow was absolutely key to making it quiet.  Otherwise that 3,000 GPH of Jebao flow made allot of noise even in a 4' wide overflow.  Raising the level was key for noise.

 

The second key was the depth of the full siphon in the sump.  If it is too deep, sometimes the full siphon doesn't start right away.

 

I guess the third thing that helped was making sure the full siphon is quite a bit deeper than the durso.  The full siphon needs room to work without the durso kicking in right away.

 

You have done your homework so I doubt I am adding anything, but wanted to throw that out there.

 

I had problems with fittings (t and cap) being to tall also, I just cut them down (carefully) with a miter saw.  Use a piece of pipe to hold it when cutting, keep fingers away!

 

This can be absolutely dead silent.  There is absolutely no noise from my DC 12000 now yet it is moving allot of water.  All I hear are the powerheads pulsing on wave modes.

 

Good luck!

Thanks Jeremy

 

Well i can report success (i think) i been up working on it all night and just got back from Lowes with the last union i needed and dry fit the tee's in the box and after completely changing the heights of everything it's looking a lot better, even aesthetically with it being all ABS in the overflow box instead of white.

 

I am a bit worried about my sump, i don't think it can handle what i intend to throw at it, during system shutdown the water level in the sump comes to about an inch or 2 from the top. I'm starting to wonder whats going to happen when i toss my skimmer in there.

 

I'm going back to Lowes to re-work my emergency drain, nothings wrong with it, it's just ugly now that the 45's are not the same height anymore. Thank god for threaded unions! (Easy cheap fix)  :clap:

 

The way it sits i'm hesitant to weld the tee's in, it seems to be working fine.

 

I will upload and post another video of the "fix" and we can see if we're getting closer  :thumbs:

 

btw, i have only managed 60% on the DC-12000 so far, i don't really care about the noise, the sump just can't handle it, the baffles are also separated from the sides and it bows quite a bit.

Edited by ChrisQ
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