Burningbaal Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 so, much delayed, but a little update: first: still hoping a mod can change the title to "upgrade to 90...finally", cause my tank is a 90 gallon. now: I picked up an old 90 up in salem for a good price (thanks, Scott!), apparently it used to be Garret's (TPA) personal tank so it's got some history on this forum. it's got three holes with bulkheads on the back. was set up as two drains and one return. I'm going to install a C2C internal box and have all three be used as a bean animal system. one of the three is larger than the other two...which of the bean animal system should be larger? I'm thinking that I won't use the siphon full-open so the larger one should be the durso, but not sure. we're also redoing the kitchen with oak cabinets that we're rebuilding as my parents are pulling them out for their own kitchen remodel. so I'll have a 54x21x36" stand (lxwxh). of course the cabinet can't support the tank so I'll be basically using its skin and putting a 2x4 structure inside the cabinet. It will have a granite tile 'counter' surface under the tank...any objections to that? lastly: I'm debating using my current 55 as the sump instead of using an acrylic 25g plus 30g rubbbermaid (for a cryptic fuge), but the 55 is all panels tempered (dumb, I know)...any suggestions? I am only planning on the skimmer for equipment but want to have an algae scrubber and as much rock as possible. I was going to have an algae scrubber and chaeto in most of the sump, rock in the rubbermaid and have the skimmer and return plumbed externally (with a very small drain and very small return section-with ATO)...how do I do it in a 55 best? Mid-game bump...any advice? Tempered 55 or acrylic 25 for the sump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 k... hopin for someone with experience on the heat issue. that's my main hesitation for using the tempered 55 is that I was going to have the pump external on the acrylic tank to cut back on heat. I can't have it external to the 55 because I can't drill the glass (tempered). I'll be running an 8-bulb T5 fixture (48") a few powerheads, the skimmer and the return (mag 7). should I use the acrylic sump to get the mag 7 as an external or use the 55 for more sump-space? That's the main debate, would really appreciate advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefsickness Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Mount a couple 6" fans in your hood it will bring your temp down .Im running 2 fans on my system useing 2 400w MH and the fans lowered my temp 8 deg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 I'm planning on using the glass lids that came with the tank, and will hang my light from rope ratchets and be hoodless ...should I not be worries about the heat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iroll253 Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 IMO use the 55 for the sump and run the pump internal. Get a clip on fan or two for the t5's. You shouldnt have a heat issue with your return pump. I run a 9.5 mag internal on my 70g with no heat at all. If you have two drops in your overflow I would run a herbie style drain (find this on google images). It is where the lower pipe is on a controlled siphon with a ball valve and the top drain is a safety drain. I've used this for a lot of tanks and IMO its the quietest. This is a pic of how i ran my old systems sump, its pretty simple. The bigger pipe is the safety and the smaller siphoned one is the main drop. I just kept it simple with a skimmer, ato, and switchboard. (of course with the 55 you'll have the option of running a refugium. If you choose to do so i would run it as (drop/skimmer chamber/fuge/return.) The second picture is how my tanks look inside of an overflow box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 Hey 253, I am planning on a bean animal overflow that's very similar to the setup you have. Thanks for the input on the sump selection! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iroll253 Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 No problem hope it everything works as planned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 ok, I've got a drawing of my plan for the 55g sump. I want all the advice I can get...I want it done right. fuge will be lit with 2x 24watt CFLs (6500K) [ATTACH=CONFIG]12334[/ATTACH] oh, and water level should be about 16" and plan to have an ato...but need to get one that I don't have to drill to use.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iroll253 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 You shouldn't need to drill for an ato.. Just have the hose run from the container to the sump. The sump looks fine you could probably shorten your return section as long as you can get the pump in and out easily. The shorter your return section the less salinity varies due to that being the section you want your float switch in for the ato. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iroll253 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Also depending on the skimmer you want around a 8-10 inch water level in that section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 You shouldn't need to drill for an ato.. Just have the hose run from the container to the sump. The sump looks fine you could probably shorten your return section as long as you can get the pump in and out easily. The shorter your return section the less salinity varies due to that being the section you want your float switch in for the ato. I guess I can use an aqualifter with an ATO switch... good point. I looked a little at the potential return pumps I may someday use (have a mag7 now, but want room for a replacement). I'm thinking a 6" section would work fine, I think that will be my plan. Also depending on the skimmer you want around a 8-10 inch water level in that section. the skimmer I'm planning on upgrading to will be a recirc skimmer (avast marine CS-1), so skimmer depth doesn't matter. My seaclone will probably sit on a stand (egg crate or something) until the upgrade. sound ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 update, but no pics We decided to put built-in cabinets in the living room and the new tank will go there instead of the current location (in the kitchen). we already cut and sanded all the pieces, then prime paint and assemble groups together. then we'll iron out the electrical, then put the units in the living then I get to move the tank! question on electrical: I'm thinking two 20amp circuits, one for return pump, heater and?? 2nd circuit for everything else. sound ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 question bump: circuitry question for the new setup: planning on 3x 20amp circuits. one will run just the heaters and return pump (skimmer?) one will run the lighting (432 watt T5 fixture), skimmer, and...? one will run everything else (powerheads, etc) does that sound good? is the amperage ok? I'm running the wires tonight or at least by the weekend and would REALLY like the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MVPaquatics Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Amps = watts / volts. Your 432 watt fixture is pulling 3-4 amps. Kind of overkill to have its own 20 amp breaker. Doesnt the 20 amp take a larger gauge wire than a 15 amp? That could be a costly expense for overkill. I dont know about your heating and pumps but lights and heaters and chillers are the power hogs. I cant see a 75 gallon needing more than one 20 amp or 2-15. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Amps = watts / volts. Your 432 watt fixture is pulling 3-4 amps. Kind of overkill to have its own 20 amp breaker. Doesnt the 20 amp take a larger gauge wire than a 15 amp? That could be a costly expense for overkill. I dont know about your heating and pumps but lights and heaters and chillers are the power hogs. I cant see a 75 gallon needing more than one 20 amp or 2-15. super-awesome, thanks for the advice. 12-2 wire (if copper) will carry 20 amps (according to my sources) and it's only $75 for 250ft, so I'm ok with that. I'm breaking them up into multiple circuits as much for emergency as anything else. if something causes one circuit to pop, it's unlikely to be on the one with just the return pump and heaters...that way I keep them running well. The lights and skimmer are 2nd most important (I think?) so they will also get their own, for the same reason. we're having an electrician swap out or (very outdated and not-to-code) breaker panel anyways, so cost of the circuit is negligable, and the wire is cheap enough. does that sound like a good priority list? return/heater as most important, lighting/skimmer as 2nd? also, It's a 90 gallon now...hoping a mod can change the title. not that it changes your point about the low elec reqs though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MVPaquatics Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Yeah sounds good. I agree with breaking it up. That is how i have it. Are you using gfci? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 I'm a little undecided with gfci. I think I'm going to seal around one circuit's wiring/outlet to make it water proof (for the heaters/return)and make the other two gfci? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 ok, I've got the baffles and pieces for the C2C overflow, the sump (Kimberlee's old 55) should be showing up today, so I'll get some silicone and hopefully get some pics of the sump up soon. hoping this weekend I can get the 90 cleaned out (been collecting dust in the garage) and get the overflow box in. then finish the built-in cabinets, assemble them and get the tank in place...I'm super excited!!! (clap)(rock2)(fingers) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePremiumAquarium Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Excited to see it finally up and running!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 ok, two pics (I guess just a teaser) the 90g display and the 55 sump: the 90 is upside-down on the right, 55 is on its end. both just got scrubbed with bleach/vinegar and rinsed out with the hose. Baffles and overflow box siliconed in now too, might do a leak test on those tonight, especially the overflow box. I'm just going to plug the drains and fill the box itself, if it can't support the water, I don't trust it anyways. and I'll just fill the center (fuge) portion of the sump, which will prove that the baffle to the return and from the drain sections are both tight. and the cabinets...in pieces: we will be sanding them again tonight and starting to assemble them, then they'll get a final coat of paint once they're together. all 3/4" cabinet grade plywood, fish tank's section will get extra 2x4 supports, will eventually be faced with 6/8" maple or birch or something (also painted white). and white doors on the base sections. These will be floor-ceiling and wall to wall, will be the entertainment center, fish stand and book/knick-knack shelf all in one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 also, we will be getting a greyhound soon, this one is a likely choice: [ATTACH=CONFIG]12507[/ATTACH] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derbird Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Nice to se water in it, it means your getting close (clap) The link didn't work for me but congrats on the new puppy. I think most people on here also have dogs, cats, reps, birds............ I think we are just good animal people (nutty) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LC Scott Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Nice to see that 55 being put to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 Nice to se water in it, it means your getting close (clap) The link didn't work for me but congrats on the new puppy. I think most people on here also have dogs, cats, reps, birds............ I think we are just good animal people (nutty) doesn't actually have water yet, but should tonight or tomorrow...my wife's dragging me to the hunger games tonight, so that's limiting my time on the project excited about the dog, we've been waiting to get one since we bought the house 3 years ago, finally almost here! Nice to see that 55 being put to use. yay! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 cleaning out the 90 (upside-down) and new-to-me sump (55g drilled near end for external return). and the built-in cabinets (not built in yet, but painted). we have now got 1/3 of it pretty much together, hoping to get at least another 1/3 done tonight, maybe more. in this pic, they are in the kitchen/dining area. I'm standing in the living room to take the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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