cellowithgills Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 A hang on the back filter without carbon pads (Aquaclear work best for this IMO), or a simple spongefilter. No skimmer, no sump, don't really need a power head, and minimal lighting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellowithgills Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Also, after thinking about it. I wouldn't say that a permanent QT is essential. If you've got a spare 10-20 gallon tank and a sponge filter on hand, I think you'd be fine. I've never qt'd fish before and I've never had a sick fish infect any other fish. I feed with Garlic Guard (Another good thing to put on a list of things to get) 2x a day and I feel like that keeps my other fish healthy enough to deal with things like ich. On that note, the reason I think I can get away with having ich in the tank and not losing tons of fish, is because I don't really have any super sensitive fish. The only fish I've ever had that have gotten/lost from ich were tangs (A Powder Brown, and a KoleDOH!). I've also noticed that when I add new fish, some of my other fish spend a lot of time getting cleaned by my cleaner shrimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Posted August 25, 2011 Author Share Posted August 25, 2011 I could probably find a spare tank and sponge filters are cheap enough as far as time for QT is 3 weeks the minimum or could you get away with a single week also I've heard a lot about dipping corals would I dip and then QT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Posted August 25, 2011 Author Share Posted August 25, 2011 Also been curious about wavemakers how important are they I have power heads but what I've read about the wavemakers is they just provide a neutral flow but is that truly important or is just having power heads ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellowithgills Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 I'd say QT for a week, unless of course you see a problem. Remember that with ich, you want to QT at least 2 weeks after you see the last signs of it. I know a lot of people on here (probably most) don't dip they're corals. I try to dip my stuff (Seachem dip) but most of the time I don't. CoralRx is really good but expensive and I don't buy corals that are spendy enough to justify it. Most people just have power heads and they're tanks do just fine. I'd say down the road if you get the chance, get some sort of controller. A controller will be able to do a wave maker plus all the other cool stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate213 Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 You will find that the QT or not to QT debate is one of the most frequent discussions online. It seems that everyone has a different opinion about it, and there are excellent arguments for both sides. My only advice on this subject is if you are going to QT, you need to QT everything. It does no good to QT only fish or only corals. Also you need to keep the QT tank running all of the time and try to keep the same parameters as your display. If you only setup QT on as-needed basis you will have constant problems. I have learned these lessons the hard way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellowithgills Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 If you set up a QT when you need it, then you can just pull water out of your system, no matching necessary. Trying to constantly match parameters in the main system and QT can be really hard unless you have a parasitic QT off the main system set up as an auto water changer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassi Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 You had good advices already. I would like to add that later on you might need a PAR meter. Our club has one you can use for free if you are a paying member (Subliminal Message) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 I was considering an apex jr but if I want a screen its like $250 are there any cheaper routes cuz id like one for my LEDs at somepoint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 Haha I would like to get a tank setup and going before I get the par meter and becoming a member im considering and guys no fighting on my thread Haha I appreciate all input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellowithgills Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 After reading a bunch and trying to find something wronge with a Reef Keeper. They really do seem like the better option for a smaller, less complicated system. I got mine with with an extra PC4 and a SL2 For under $300 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 maybe down the road thats a little high for my budget Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arredondojason Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 I was considering an apex jr but if I want a screen its like $250 are there any cheaper routes cuz id like one for my LEDs at somepoint I really like my Reef Keeper Lite and the basic lite is like $100. I have the Lite with the PC 4 and the SL2 and it does everything i need it to on my 90G plus my Frag tank Also I prefer to run a phosban reactor when i setup a new tank to prevent a huge algae spike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 I haven't researched them much so Idk what pc 4 or sl2 mean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellowithgills Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 A pc4 is 4 controlable outlets. An SL2 is a probe module. It has pH, salinity, temp, and 2 switch ports. Typically they come with a SL1 which is the same except the SL1 has ORP instead of salinity. I figured an ORP probe would be useless on my system so I opted for SL2 which is more expensive. Over all, the modules and the probes are cheaper from digital aquatics than from Neptune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 So what does the basic RKL come with and im sorry but what is orp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellowithgills Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 The basic (LV1) set up is the head unit, a pc4 (4 outlets), and a temp probe. If you get it from the Nautilus it would be $99.99 I believe. The LV3 package comes with the head unit, 2 PC4's, a SL1, and a temp probe. I think that runs about $250. ORP is Oxidation Reduction Potential, you really only need to monitor it if you're using ozone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 So if im understanding this right if I got the lvl 1 I could control my lights and monitor water temp and if later on I wanted to add a pc 4 or anything I could Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellowithgills Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 If you're doing DIY LED's with a dimmable driver, I think you'd need to get an ACL (about $80 maybe a little more) which works with the Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable driver that RapidLED offers. This will allow you to program the dimming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MVPaquatics Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 Somehow this went way beyond essentials for beginners...controllers?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tat2d Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 I don't think anyone has mentioned one of the most important things necessary for a beginner with a reef tank....... patience. Doesn't cost a thing, but it can be very costly if left out of the equation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellowithgills Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 Somehow this went way beyond essentials for beginners...controllers?! I think the conversation has headed this way because he asked about wavemakers. Wouldn't you agree that timers for your lights, and a good reliable heater are essential? And since a controller has all of that, I figured I'd mention it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MVPaquatics Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 Well it depends. Heater yes, essential. Timer, acutally no, not estsential. A tank could function fine without one. Convienient yes, same with the wavemaker. I just have a feeling for a beginner, money could be better spent. Get a milwuakee refractometer, some quality test kits. Quality liverock. A good skimmer, quality salt etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 Milwaukee apparently doesn't make refractometers any more unless I misunderstood garett. I do have a refractometer, and as far as the controller goes I did ask about it. unfortunately I got the 48p dimmable drivers so I could use the basic control rapid LED has. I thought I could step up to a controller later on without issue apparently not, oh well, I guess it doesn't need to be that fancy over a 40b. since salt was mentioned what brand should I stay away from I know everyone uses different stuff but are there any brands that stand out as best or worst? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellowithgills Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 I understand what you mean by not being "essential" for the life of the tank, and I'm not disagreeing with you. But, I would think that any beginner would eventually buy timers for their lights if they had to be away from their tank for more than a day. I think that since he's going with a DIY LED set up, a timer/programer would be essential. I was just thinking that a controller would be better than one of the PWM controllers that rapidled sells because it does all that an more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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