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Cyno? black out?


Kimberlee

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I've been cleaning my sand bed for three days now, and finally got most the stuff up. All the bad thing read zero, Rose City even test a sample for me so I could be sure.

I'm now ready to cover my DT for three days, followed by a WC. I'm kinda worried about my 2 sps'es and my BTA. Will they be okay for the next three days? Should I feed the tank, before I cover it?

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Black out won't hurt a bit...along with lights out, make sure you've got plenty of flow and a little Microbacter 7 may help...

 

DrMerle

 

Thx, as far as the Microbacter, I'll try that as a last resort. I'm trying so hard to avoid treatment that mean dumping things into my tank. I know sometimes it is necessary. I read some where I should only run my actinics for the next few weeks after, but I need to look that part up again. Any info on that part?

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microbacter isn't a treatment so to speak of. it helps establish bacteria colonies that eat the building blocks of what your trying to get rid of. I would not turn off your photo lights, just limit them down some. if your corals don't get enough photosynthesis, they will die for certain.

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If you are gonna dose some chemicals, you have to be sure about what you have: dinoflagellates, cyanobacteria or both. Hard to tell without looking at them under magnification.

As for testing your water, phosphates wont tell you anything. Even if at 0, that does not exclude that you have a source of phosphates feeding your problem.

Unless your tank is relatively new (< than 6-9 months), you have to find the source of the problem and a solution: more flow, different lights, adding a phosphate remover media and so on.

Lights off for a few days are ok, as DrMerle said, go for it!

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7 months, still new. I know there's phosphates I see them so to speak.

002-1.jpg

It's only on the sand. I feed every other day. Just got rid of an engineer goby, who was constantly rearranging my sand bed. I suspect he wasn't helping.

Is there anything else I can do? I mean before I go the Microbacter route? I will try it if all else fails

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If you are gonna dose some chemicals, you have to be sure about what you have: dinoflagellates, cyanobacteria or both. Hard to tell without looking at them under magnification.

As for testing your water, phosphates wont tell you anything. Even if at 0, that does not exclude that you have a source of phosphates feeding your problem.

Unless your tank is relatively new (< than 6-9 months), you have to find the source of the problem and a solution: more flow, different lights, adding a phosphate remover media and so on.

Lights off for a few days are ok, as DrMerle said, go for it!

 

As grassi stated, you can have a 0 reading of phosphates but that could just mean your cyano is eating it up giving your a false positive.

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Okay, since the tanks still new I shouldn't worry about it yet? I do a 10% WC every week, should I change out more? It seems to be under control, never leaves the sand bed. Oh, nassaius snail are great I do need more though. How many of you guys run w/ out a sand bed? I here the maintenance is easier? What are the other benefits?

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A few other things: I have done black-outs for 3 days with no ill effects on SPS. Some even have said the color is brighter due to longer dark period (can't really confirm or deny that) But I will say all the livestock was in terrific condition before hand, probably not so good for corals on the verge.

 

If your tank is new, it is definitely worth trying to wait it out, it is really common is establishing tanks.

 

I am an advocate of sand, I have had it in my show tank for 5+ years. No nitrates, or phosphates, but better no algae problems, other than coraline! It really helps buffer, just keep it thin ( 1 in or less) and maintain it (with flow and creatures). But, it is correct to say a test of 0 doesn't mean nothing is being produced, it just means it is being used as fast as it is created.

 

Nassarius snails prefer meaty carrion, good if you are overfeeding and will prevent decay of food causing algae. Cerith's are better for diatoms, along with turbos (don't get mexican ones, they are from temperate water). Cyano can be poisonous so many things won't touch it..my favorite that will are scarlet red reef hermits.

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Thank you, MVPaquatics. A lot of that confirms what I've read. How old is a tank before it's considered mature? or a least not new? Everything in my tank appears healthy, even thriving. I don't want to black out the tank, it's my favorite thing in the house, I just don't want it to get out of control either. I'll pick up some more scarlet red hermits and a phosphate pad early next week. I think it's time to get a move on my sump.

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Kim, I would NOT black out your tank or worry about this at this point. As Grassi says, this is part of the maturation process and usually happens at about the 6-7 month stage and lasts for a month or two. As long as everything looks and acts healthy, keep up your water changes and leave it alone, it'll be fine.

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Thanks Steelhead, I always have a little more concordance when you chime in. The only things that aren't right are theses zoos ,and one sps I just brought home. The zoos haven't opened in my tank, and let me include a pic of the sps

065.jpg

The green looked like it was disappearing a long the base of the sps, but I think it may be recovering. Any thoughts would help, the zoos would be really nice, if I could save them

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