Jump to content

HOB refugium or extra tank under stand?


XrayGuy

Recommended Posts

So, I just got my first skimmer and it fit in my sump (barely) and I was using my sump as a refugium (all I have is caulerpa), but now there is not really any space and I think it will be best if I have a dedicated refugium. I have two options that I am going back and forth on...

 

1. Reef Octopus HOB refugium ($140 at BRS) - I like the idea of this being easy to set up, but it would be sandwiched between my tank and the wall and I would not be able to look into it without taking it off the back (to monitor growth for trimming etc.) which lead me to my 2nd option...

 

2. I have a 12" long x 10" wide x 16" high(the sump is 16" high) space in my stand next to my sump that I could add an additional acrylic box and make it my refugium. I would just need the acrylic box made and 2 pumps (one to send the water to the fuge and one back to the sump). And how would I want the inside of the box set up (baffles?)?

 

What are your thoughts on these ideas? I think I like #2 best but I would like some input from OP experiences. If I was to go the route of #2, is there someone on here that could make me the acrylic box for cheaper than a LFS? I have not got any quotes from LFS yet, but I am sure they are spendy. Let me know what you guys and gals think. Thanks in advance!

 

IMG_9939.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You would only need one pump' date=' as long as you set it up higher than the current sump so that it gravity feeds into the current sump.[/quote']

 

If I made it higher to gravity feed, how exactly would the water be getting back to the sump? I'm pretty new at this...:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have a pump to pump water from the sump into the fuge, have the fuge set at least 3" higher than the sump, the top of the fuge that is, should be 3" or more higher than the top the sump, then it should, if you have an overflow, basically just drill a hole in it, an it will overflow into the sump from the fuge...Rick could explain it a LOT easier than I can LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have a pump to pump water from the sump into the fuge' date=' have the fuge set at least 3" higher than the sump, the top of the fuge that is, should be 3" or more higher than the top the sump, then it should, if you have an overflow, basically just drill a hole in it, an it will overflow into the sump from the fuge...Rick could explain it a LOT easier than I can LOL[/quote']

 

Ok that makes more sense with drilling a hole in it. The problem for me would be that if it was taller than my sump, especially if it was more than an inch or so, then I would not be able to reach into it at all...my stand is short =/ . Also, even if I did have the room, wouldn't that make my water volume so much that if my return went out for some reason, then my sump would overflow? Any other ideas you can think of?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could do it with one pump by drilling a drain hole to return back through both tanks which is pretty easy to do with acrylic using a regular hole saw. You could also just run a big bulkhead through both and replumb it so the display tank drain enters one tank and the return feeds from the other to the the display and you wouldn't need an extra pump at all. (Which is how my old 125g was set up). The bulkhead just needs to be adequate to handle all of the flow. The latter option has the side benefit of adding more volume to the system since any drainage during a power loss will be handled by both tanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BYW, You shouldn't need any baffles in the fuge. They only serve 2 purposes, first is to eliminate bubbles and the second is to separate sections. In this case I would think the bubbles would be gone in the other tank and the fuge will already be separated from the skimmer area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could do it with one pump by drilling a drain hole to return back through both tanks which is pretty easy to do with acrylic using a regular hole saw. You could also just run a big bulkhead through both and replumb it so the display tank drain enters one tank and the return feeds from the other to the the display and you wouldn't need an extra pump at all. (Which is how my old 125g was set up). The bulkhead just needs to be adequate to handle all of the flow. The latter option has the side benefit of adding more volume to the system since any drainage during a power loss will be handled by both tanks.

 

I think I like the drain hole idea and one pump just going to the fuge. Drilling the hole in the new tank won't be a problem oviously since it can be done while its being built, but how do I go about drilling the matching hole in my existing sump? Can it be done with the sump still running or do I need to completely drain it and take everything out etc. to do it? If I do have to take it all apart, how long does it take to do a drilling like this (so I know how long it will be shut down)? I would need someone to drill this for me too because I do not have the equipment or know-how to do it...(probably whoever makes the new tank for me).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I like the drain hole idea and one pump just going to the fuge. Drilling the hole in the new tank won't be a problem oviously since it can be done while its being built' date=' but how do I go about drilling the matching hole in my existing sump? Can it be done with the sump still running or do I need to completely drain it and take everything out etc. to do it? If I do have to take it all apart, how long does it take to do a drilling like this (so I know how long it will be shut down)? I would need someone to drill this for me too because I do not have the equipment or know-how to do it...(probably whoever makes the new tank for me).[/quote']

 

Just keep in mind that you may be reducing the amount of space available in the current sump to take on water if you lose power or shut down the system. (Depends on how full you fill the fuge) The main reason I would just run it from one to the next is because it eliminates an extra pump.

 

As to the specific questions.

Yes. You can probably drill it with the sump running if the hole will be above the waterline. I'm assuming it's acrylic? If so then maybe put some tape on the inside to catch the bulk of the acrylic shavings but otherwise don't worry too much as a few acrylic shavings will not hurt anything anyway. If the hole needs to be below the current waterline then you may need to shut it down for an hour or so and drain it far enough to drill it. The equipment needed is pretty minimal. A 3/8" drill and a hole saw to match the size of the bulkhead used. I you don't have the holesaw there are several of us here that do and there is a store down the street from my house that sells a cheap holesaw set that will work for less than $10.

 

I would probably opt to drill the tanks yourself even if you have someone build the tank. That way you can hold off to decide exactly where to drill it until after you set the tank in and decide where you want it. Let me know if you don't already have someone in mind yet to build the tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just keep in mind that you may be reducing the amount of space available in the current sump to take on water if you lose power or shut down the system. (Depends on how full you fill the fuge) The main reason I would just run it from one to the next is because it eliminates an extra pump.

 

As to the specific questions.

Yes. You can probably drill it with the sump running if the hole will be above the waterline. I'm assuming it's acrylic? If so then maybe put some tape on the inside to catch the bulk of the acrylic shavings but otherwise don't worry too much as a few acrylic shavings will not hurt anything anyway. If the hole needs to be below the current waterline then you may need to shut it down for an hour or so and drain it far enough to drill it. The equipment needed is pretty minimal. A 3/8" drill and a hole saw to match the size of the bulkhead used. I you don't have the holesaw there are several of us here that do and there is a store down the street from my house that sells a cheap holesaw set that will work for less than $10.

 

I would probably opt to drill the tanks yourself even if you have someone build the tank. That way you can hold off to decide exactly where to drill it until after you set the tank in and decide where you want it. Let me know if you don't already have someone in mind yet to build the tank.

 

So for the bulkhead running directly between the tanks, where would it be placed? I think I just may not be understanding what this would look like. Would it be at the bottom of the sump/new fuge tank so that water just flowed through both? Also, my fuge would be the new tank still right but with the return pump in it? Yes my current sump is acrylic and no I do not have anyone to build my new addition yet...I have been waiting for the LFS to get back to me with a quote of what it would cost from his "acrylic guy", but this LFS is always VERY slow getting back to people on stuff. I really have no idea what this would cost, but I am hoping less than the cost of a the HOB fuge I was looking at ($140). If you can make this for me and maybe even help me do the hole cutting + bulkhead install (as I have never done anything like that), I would be very appreciative and pay you fairly. Please get back to me when you can. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So for the bulkhead running directly between the tanks' date=' where would it be placed? I think I just may not be understanding what this would look like. Would it be at the bottom of the sump/new fuge tank so that water just flowed through both? Also, my fuge would be the new tank still right but with the return pump in it? Yes my current sump is acrylic and no I do not have anyone to build my new addition yet...I have been waiting for the LFS to get back to me with a quote of what it would cost from his "acrylic guy", but this LFS is always VERY slow getting back to people on stuff. I really have no idea what this would cost, but I am hoping less than the cost of a the HOB fuge I was looking at ($140). If you can make this for me and maybe even help me do the hole cutting + bulkhead install (as I have never done anything like that), I would be very appreciative and pay you fairly. Please get back to me when you can. Thanks![/quote']

 

Where the hole goes will depend on which way you do it. If water flows from the sump to the fuge then you want the hole in a low spot. If you pump water to it then you would want it higher. Yes, you would just move the return pump over to the fuge for the first option.

 

Yes, I could build it for you and come over to help set it up. I would need to run over and take a few measurements to be sure you get as large as possible but still have room to put bulkheads in with a short pipe between them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RICK -

So I got the bulkheads and the coupler for our project, but Woody seems to think that the 1" bulkhead will make the water in the sump back up since my return pump is about 1000gph...he thinks that the bulkhead will only support about 300-400gph flow. What do you think about this? I explained that you had a similar setup and that it worked fine, but I didn't remember what size return pump you had. Anyways, I would like to try it still and worst case scenario, I guess I could get a small pump to help pump more water to the fuge. Thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RICK -

So I got the bulkheads and the coupler for our project, but Woody seems to think that the 1" bulkhead will make the water in the sump back up since my return pump is about 1000gph...he thinks that the bulkhead will only support about 300-400gph flow. What do you think about this? I explained that you had a similar setup and that it worked fine, but I didn't remember what size return pump you had. Anyways, I would like to try it still and worst case scenario, I guess I could get a small pump to help pump more water to the fuge. Thoughts?

 

Your drain is already 1". I.E. It will be no more likely to back up then as it is already. The figures Woody gave are actually about what a 3/4" bulkhead will support.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey i have a perfect little 10 gallon tank for you! it has a 1/2 inch with bulkhead and i have the pump. i will sale to you for a good deal!

 

If it's a standard 10 gallon tank it will not work. This one needs to have a 13" x 10" or smaller footprint and be about 16" high. It also would need to be redrilled to fit a 1" bulkhead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your drain is already 1". I.E. It will be no more likely to back up then as it is already. The figures Woody gave are actually about what a 3/4" bulkhead will support.

 

Sounds good. Yeah I wasn't really worried about it, just thought I would bring up what he was telling me. I like your idea and still want to do it. Again, I thank you for taking the time to help me out. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...