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Any experienced stand and canopy builders out there?


Emerald525

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The wood skin shouldn't be a problem. The only question would be what method is used to hold it on. I.E. Will it be mounted using screws/bolts or using magnets? If it uses magnets will it have doors or will the panels just be removed for access.

 

Stainless steel would be the best since it doesn't need to be coated to prevent rust. It is very expensive though. Regular steel would cost a good bit less but will still be expensive. If you do decide to go with steel then it can be coated with a marine epoxy to keep it from rusting. Thought will also need to be given to mounting in order to keep it enclosed (Any openings could allow rust to start inside) but that just means adding tabs for anything that needs to be mounted.

 

Stainless steel will rust as well in a manner of 2/3 months with salt. It needs to be coated as well. Even the best ss on the market (the one that doesn't even attract magnets).

My tubes did rust and all the ss frames I saw on RC and other forums were coated.

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Lol I don't see the titanium stand happening Alex and it's not like I get any respect in this forum anyway LOL! I like that it is much lighter weight though

 

I'm thinking common steel is probably the way to go and powercoated. Gonna probably need some help moving the darn thing. I'm liking the flexibility of the build. I'm just not as creative about these things as the rest of you.

 

 

Rick here's a picture of one I liked on reef frontiers. This is exactly what I'm thinking. I really really like the look and design of this one!(clap)

 

woodskin.jpg

 

and I'm liking the wood design

steelstand.jpg

 

I'm not sure how the skin gets attached but I can ask this guy.

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I like the one from reeffrontiers. Roy has a similar skin (but the frame is wood) and it is easy to remove and you have complete access to the sump area. You can even think to put some little wheels under the wood structure (not visible) so you can slide out the whole thing without effort.

As for the wheels you can have a few bearings bolted to the inside side of the wood part. Something like this:

Abec_9_Skateboard_Bearings_4798.jpg

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OK. With all due respect, steel of any kind is a bad idea. In the long term it WILL rust and/or corrode around saltwater no matter what the coating. I've been in the metalworking business for over 35 years so I know of what I speak. The problem is, rust is often invisible, you don't know that it's corroded until it breaks. Stainless is better (and a LOT more expensive), but it will still corrode in saltwater. If you are set on something besides wood, I would suggest aluminum. Specifically this stuff:

 

http://www.8020.net/

 

Check out this comparison:

 

http://www.8020.net/T-Slot-1.asp

 

It's strong, lightweight and it's fairly cheap (wood is still cheaper). It is basically an industrial Erector Set. You could put it together in a day with a tape measure, wood cutting bandsaw or tablesaw and an allen (hex) wrench. No welding, coating or painting required. It can readily accept any kind of skinning (wood, plexiglass, whatever). It's actually pretty cool stuff. This is what we make assembly lines out of at HP.

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It makes a lot of sense steelhead. Check out the link in my post n. 6 :)

It's the same product

I've seen this stuff in italy and I was wondering where to find it here! Nobody replied and I saw only coated steel... so I suggested that.

Aluminum passivation it's a great natural coat!

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OK. With all due respect, steel of any kind is a bad idea. In the long term it WILL rust and/or corrode around saltwater no matter what the coating. I've been in the metalworking business for over 35 years so I know of what I speak. The problem is, rust is often invisible, you don't know that it's corroded until it breaks. Stainless is better (and a LOT more expensive), but it will still corrode in saltwater. If you are set on something besides wood, I would suggest aluminum. Specifically this stuff:

 

http://www.8020.net/

 

Check out this comparison:

 

http://www.8020.net/T-Slot-1.asp

 

It's strong, lightweight and it's fairly cheap (wood is still cheaper). It is basically an industrial Erector Set. You could put it together in a day with a tape measure, wood cutting bandsaw or tablesaw and an allen (hex) wrench. No welding, coating or painting required. It can readily accept any kind of skinning (wood, plexiglass, whatever). It's actually pretty cool stuff. This is what we make assembly lines out of at HP.

 

It makes a lot of sense steelhead. Check out the link in my post n. 6 :)

It's the same product

I've seen this stuff in italy and I was wondering where to find it here! Nobody replied and I saw only coated steel... so I suggested that.

Aluminum passivation it's a great natural coat!

 

I'm so confused!(nutty) Just when I thought I had it down another variable is added!(laugh) Seriously I appreciate the input. Would this really work? You have my interest!

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Yes this thread is interesting. So steelhead would aluminum give you the same advantage of steel in that you would have more workspace?

 

I have not heard of any of the people with steel stands having huge problems with rust. I have had more difficulty with the recent floods with the wood warping.

 

Would it work well with an acrylic tank?

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Yes this thread is interesting. So steelhead would aluminum give you the same advantage of steel in that you would have more workspace?

 

I have not heard of any of the people with steel stands having huge problems with rust. I have had more difficulty with the recent floods with the wood warping.

 

Would it work well with an acrylic tank?

 

Is having more workspace the reason for wanting steel? If a stand is well built without going too much overboard there will be very little if any difference in workspace. In some ways even more since most of the steel ones I see still use extra supports that are not necessary. Keep in mind that most of the DIY stands are not just a little overbuilt but rather they are so overbuilt with extra materials and supports that they literally would hold half a dozen cars if you could park them on top of them.

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Is having more workspace the reason for wanting steel? If a stand is well built without going too much overboard there will be very little if any difference in workspace. In some ways even more since most of the steel ones I see still use extra supports that are not necessary. Keep in mind that most of the DIY stands are not just a little overbuilt but rather they are so overbuilt with extra materials and supports that they literally would hold half a dozen cars if you could park them on top of them.

 

The other reason I like the idea of the steel stands is after dealing with several unfortunate water leaks on the carpet the wood on the stands has gotten warped and the doors don't shut and I also like the look. Just looking at all the options Rick.

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Nothing wrong with looking at the options. What about composite lumber? No worries about warping or corrosion with it.

 

Never even thought about that for a stand. I wonder if anyone has every built a stand out of composite lumber?(scratch)

 

I have seen where it looks okay on decks but I still prefer the look of wood over the composite stuff.

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Yes this thread is interesting. So steelhead would aluminum give you the same advantage of steel in that you would have more workspace?

 

I have not heard of any of the people with steel stands having huge problems with rust. I have had more difficulty with the recent floods with the wood warping.

 

Would it work well with an acrylic tank?

 

This stuff is SO perfect for this application I just may get into a side business making custom stands out of it. You could literally build a stand in a day that would outlast and out perform any other Aquarium stands out there.

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yea we use aluminum in the construction trade alot for its strength and ability to withstand the elements of time, plus its very easy to handle, light and goes together with precision. Your storefronts are pretty much all made out of aluminum these days. As for composite lumber, i'm assuming your talking about the plastic stuff, because composite lumber encompasses many kinds of materials. I would not use the plastic wood for any structural elements but the deck or skin would be great for water resilience.

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This stuff is SO perfect for this application I just may get into a side business making custom stands out of it. You could literally build a stand in a day that would outlast and out perform any other Aquarium stands out there.

 

Couldn't we in theory frame the stand in composite and then use the same technique of a removable skin out of oak?

 

You have my interest Steelhead and yes Beth that's what I was thinking aluminum frame with oak wood skin! We would be so popular!(laugh)

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