Shut-off valve and DI problem

[grassi]

I just added a DI canister to my RO unit.

I also bought a shut-off kit (this one) http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/reverse-osmosis-filters-and-systems/ro-di-accessories/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html

 

Problem is that without the DI the shut-off is working well. As soon as I connect the DI canister at the end of the system, there is no way to make the water to stop.

 

Following the instructions on their website and somewhere else (http://www.melevsreef.com/rodi_help.html) I currently have this setup:

 

Tap water to carbon filter

From carbon filter to the IN rear connection of the ASOV (the valve). For rear I mean opposite to where the 4 screws are.

from the rear OUT to the RO membrane input

From the membrane:

- waste to drain

- purified line to the CHECK VALVE then to the front IN of the ASOV (front)

from front OUT of ASOV to IN of DI canister

from OUT of DI canister to the float valve

 

Any idea?

[reefcam]

do you mean water keep coming out of the waste line? I'm having problem with one of my ASOV too. I have 3 and 1 doesn't work.. go figure.

[grassi]

Yes, waste line does not stop :-(

[reefcam]

are there any air trap in the DI canister? Since the valve is based on pressure from the good water line to stop the incoming water line, it may not be able to build up enough pressure. Have you tried lowering the water pressure? I'm having the same issue and not sure if it is the ASOV problem. Have you contacted Bulkreef to get their feedback? Mine doesn't stop with or without my DI at the end.

[grassi]

The DI is new. I was reading it needs up to a couple of weeks to break in. Seems is not able to fill all the way up when it is new. Probably there is some air trapped inside...

I just received the parts. I'm gonna call them tomorrow.

Mine does stop without the DI, so I suppose the DI is the problem somehow.

[reefcam]

Well, I figured out my problem from the website you had above. My RO membrane housing was missing a check-valve out of the good water line.. now it works normally.

 

As for the new DI. You should run about 3 - 5 gals before using the water out of your DI for your tank. When I change out my DI, I normally make 30 gal of water and dump the water on my lawn. The reason is because the DI resin will have some impurities that will come out of the water initially.

 

What does your DI cartridge look like? And do you have a water tank?

[grassi]

I have the check valve installed. Maybe it is just a manner of breaking in the DI...

Thanks for the advice, I will dump some.

This is my DI: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/single-di-canister.html

 

 

You mean a tank storage for the RO/DI or a pressurized tank for drinking?

I do have a 20 gallon tank for the purified water (where I would like to install the float valve). From there water goes to my aquariums. Some of the water goes to a second bucked feed by gravity on demand. This second unit is where the salt water is made for water changes. Water in the tanks is moved constantly and heated up in the salt water tank, so salinity is checked at 78F.

[reefcam]

I was thinking more of a pressurized tank like this one http://cracklecdn-zoovy-3.simplecdn.net/img/theh2oguru/W640-H480-Bffffff/U/unsinkfront.jpg

 

I'm out of clue why your waste is not stopping. Let us know what you find out from Bulk Reef.

[Algae]

The DI should fill and flow right away. Air is purged easily as long as there are no restrictions. You got another problem I think. I'm gonna check mine now.

[Algae]

PM sent......

[CA2OR]

How is Bulkreef's support?

[grassi]

Thanks for the pm Algae! I was able to contact the support this morning and, answering to CA2OR, they seems to be great. My configuration was right, but they explained me better how that thing works, and what could be the problem. He said it works like a bladder that terminate the flow when it is filled up. If is not filled up properly it is because there is some leaking. Mostly is air trapped in the unit or leaking from the tubes. I noticed this problem before with this fittings: it is always better to "renew" the cut before to plug into to auto-lock kind of fittings.

[Buckeye Field Supply]

When ASOV's don't work, its often a problem with a leaking valve at the end of the DI "out" tube, or at the check valve between the RO permeate port and the low pressure "in" port on the ASOV. Just sometimes... it is the ASOV itself.

 

If your DI stage doesn't fill up, you just have some air trapped in there. To purge it: With the system running, and with a towel handy, unscrew the DI housing about a quarter turn - just enough to break the seal. You'll see the water level start to climb right away - just before it reaches the oring at the top of the housing, tighten the housing back up an you are good to go.

 

Russ