gradth Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 So I am redoing my 55 and turning it into a FOWLR. I am going to use my wet dry sump but want to make some mods to it. I ditched the bioballs and need help setting it up. Current sump empty, right chamber is where the bioballs were and where the tank drains to. First question I have. I happen to have 2 hang on overflows, so I was going to use them both, one on each end of the tank. I was wondering if this lay out would work ok. Disregard the size of the pvc as I just laid out what I had laying around, but the design is my idea. That would attach to here Anyone see an issue with any of that? Second I wondering about the sump set up as well. Live rock placement, return, THat sort of stuff. I have a Aquac remora HOB skimmer that I had just hanging on the sump before, no other real option for that. Good ideas? Any suggestions. Not really sure what needs to be in a FOWLR sump. I have a 20 gal long sump I built, but I would have to modify my stand a bit to get it to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 On the return you can set it up with a filter sock if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowpunk Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 I'm running that same sump with some mods also. I have eggcrate that my rock sits on in the right chamber. The little wall in yours to the left is much taller to hold more water in the right side for the live rock. Oh, and it is really a noisy sumps so if you want to counter that problem make the pipe go deep into the sump to release the water instead of trickling all over the drawer plate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gradth Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 I'm running that same sump with some mods also. I have eggcrate that my rock sits on in the right chamber. The little wall in yours to the left is much taller to hold more water in the right side for the live rock. Oh, and it is really a noisy sumps so if you want to counter that problem make the pipe go deep into the sump to release the water instead of trickling all over the drawer plate... Got any pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowpunk Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 no sorry. it's stuck under my little 75g stand so I couldn't get any either from where it is at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 If you submerge the return (I would) then run a backup drain that isn't submerged that can handle all of the flow. When the power comes back on a submerged drain will not flow the full volume at first. Not exactly sure why but that is what ends up happening. Mine backs up and flows through the backup drain for a few minutes before the submerged drain catches up. FWIW, I had this same sump on my old 40g tank and I pulled the tray out and submerged the drain and then added a backup drain. I also did the eggcrate with LR over it like Snowpunk did. One other thing I would suggest would be to add a piece of acrylic at the bottom of the first section to close it up. That will force the water to overflow the first section at a consistant height. The consistant height can be important to provide a consistant flow pressure to the skimmer. (Put the skimmer pump in the first section) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowpunk Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Here this is something I just put together to show you really quick... That should work. It won't let me make it any bigger so you cant really read the stuff. From left to right then down~ Return chamber Extended height wall Water level in sump Live rock area Egg crate goes here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Picture isn't showing up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gradth Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 So I should raise the height of the wall for the return chamber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowpunk Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 So I should raise the height of the wall for the return chamber? I did just to get more water in the sump over all. It gave more room for the live rock in there also. I put cheato in with the rock but wouldn't do it again as it's hard to get in there and weed it out. It grows through the eggcrating and just becomes a mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gradth Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Sounds good, think im gonna work on that today. Wanna try and get all the plumbing and stuff done early, so I dont have to tinker with it later when the tank is full. Thanks for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowpunk Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 one other note on that design. figure out the right height so that if the power goes out it will just barely not overflow when fully topped off and so that you have the most time between topoffs. an auto top off would be a gret addition to counter that possible problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gradth Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 So i got the plumbing laid out. How does this look for the drain from the 2 overflows? will make a longer piece to dump down into the bottom of the sump off this piece. Will that work ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 If you run a large return pump it should work out OK. If you don't have a lot of flow through the U-tubes, they will collect air bubbles and eventually lose siphon. I would just use 1 HOB box and run a 500-700 gph pump for your return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gradth Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 I have 2 submersible return pumps I was gonna use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 As long as you will be pushing 1000GPH, it should work, but I would upsize the Tee to a 1.5" or 2" and run that to your sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gradth Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 As long as you will be pushing 1000GPH' date=' it should work, but I would upsize the Tee to a 1.5" or 2" and run that to your sump.[/quote'] For more flow? One pump pushes 850 GPH and the other is 650 GPH, so should be good I would think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Your choking the flow down to around 750 GPH at the T. The two 1" pipes will handle the flow but then your joining them together into only one 1" pipe which will not handle that much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gradth Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 So would 2 drains be better or just upsizing the T? I did it that way just cause it looked nice and clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA2OR Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 IMO 2 drains would be better. If you get over to Westside Aquariums you can see his display tanks sump set up and it is a dual drain. one other note on that design. figure out the right height so that if the power goes out it will just barely not overflow when fully topped off and so that you have the most time between topoffs. an auto top off would be a gret addition to counter that possible problem... This is VERY VERY true. I have had to make several adjustments to my set up and still haven't found that optimal setting. I do NOT want to continue to add a gallon or more every single "freaking" day. Sorry but it drives me crazy. I hate having all those tedious tasks on a day to day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gradth Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 Yeah I have a Auto top off set up on my 180, love it. Just gonna have to order another. I have 2 drains on my 180 also and it works nice, I was just trying to be fancy and make it look nice. Which really makes no sense because its in the back. LOL Look at me go, have not even finished the 180 and already getting obcessed with something new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA2OR Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 either way with the dual overflow I would think you would have a bit more control. Also, as stated previously you loose flow by joining the 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gradth Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 looks like I will be revamping it in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA2OR Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Can I say I hate sumps in here?......I really really do. I am so tired of re-working the flow on this thing...you have no idea. I would almost pay someone in frags to come and re-vamp my stuff as I can't seem to figure out what to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 So would 2 drains be better or just upsizing the T? I did it that way just cause it looked nice and clean. 2 are better. The T increases the chance of something clogging the pipe at that point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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