jgf86123 Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 hey guys, ive got this idea for a stand i wanted to run by you. ive got everything mapped out, and i was wondering what size wood you guys would recommend? im thinking 4x4's for the corners, but im not positive, it may be overkill. i plan on facing it with 3/4" stain ready carpenter grade plywood, no canopy on the tank, since it is my frag/grow-out tank and ill be in it all the time. but, anyway, here's the diagram i have set up so far, feel free to make changes if you'd like. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 If it will be the size mentioned in an earlier thread then the 3/4" plywood alone would hold the weight without any problem. I.E. 4x4's are way overkill. The stand for my 125g tank was built using 2x4's with a removable skin using bamboo. Check my build thread in the signature below for some pictures of the stand with and without the skin. (Note: That I had the tank full prior to skinning it) The 2x4's that run the length of the tank are on end to provide some extra strength due to the 6' length however on the last tank that was 4' long I layed them flat when I built the stand for it. I've seen commercially built 4' stands for 55 and 60 gallon tanks though that had nothing more than a 1x4 laying flat running almost the entire length with support on just the last 6" or so of each end. Compared to that even the stand I made for my 125g is overkill with the 2x4 framework. I think I would scale it back and plan 2x4's for the framework and then 3/8" or perhaps even 1/4" for the skin. (That should save you a bit of money and make the stand a little lighter and it will still be overkill) The framework will support it without the skin so the skin will be a covering only so it just needs to be thick enough so it doesn't look flimsy. Be sure to add in a board on the back (8" or so covering the top or bottom) or some braces at an angle to prevent against lateral forces folding it up without the skin on. (If you look close in the first few pics of my stand you can see the board at the top on the back that I used to add lateral support) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 so you'd recommend 2x4's and just a thin 1/4" skin for the outside? can i get that in a smooth finish? something i can sand and paint? since my gf an a friend of hers are planning on doing some nice designs in the stand, something that will react to a black light im gonna put up in the area the stand is going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wanareef Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 As Rick mentioned, 4x4 are way overkill and take up too much room. This was a redo for Vanz, his stand needed help. The Oak cabinet got a refinish and went over the 2x4's This shows the bottom of the stand. Just lay a sheet of ply across the 2x4's, caulk it up and you have a tray to catch spills, don't forget to paint it to make it water proof. You can get sanded one side plywood and seal it with several coats of sealer - sand inbetween each coat and it'll be really smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 that looks good man, im wanting to put a floor in the bottom then put roughly an 8" lip around that, and then i plan on sealing it up with silicone or caulking it or something, so that if i spring a leak, it will stay there where i can easily vacuum it out, seeing as how im upstairs an doubt the bed below our living room, where the tank is gonna be, will appreciate getting soaked lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowpunk Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 so you'd recommend 2x4's and just a thin 1/4" skin for the outside? can i get that in a smooth finish? something i can sand and paint? since my gf an a friend of hers are planning on doing some nice designs in the stand' date=' something that will react to a black light im gonna put up in the area the stand is going.[/quote'] 2x4's and 1/2" would be best I think. It will hold forever and won't be such flimsy wood. It'll be heavier though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 im not too worried about the weight, as its going to straddle a load bearing wall, made out of 8x8's lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 so you'd recommend 2x4's and just a thin 1/4" skin for the outside? can i get that in a smooth finish? something i can sand and paint? since my gf an a friend of hers are planning on doing some nice designs in the stand' date=' something that will react to a black light im gonna put up in the area the stand is going.[/quote'] 1/4" will be plenty thick for the skin but a little thicker isn't going to make too much difference either if necessary to get the finish you want. As mentioned it will just be for aesthetics if the frame is 2x4's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 sounds like a plan, i might just put you to work rick lol whats your going rate? a 12 pack or a case? LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwcoralfarm Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 The only thing I else I might worry about is making sure you have an area for a filter sock in that refuge, you will have a ton of bubbles with that straight pipe not to mention water splashing out everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 i was planning on using a filter sock, but didnt write it down, thanks for reminding me man lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 If he uses the herbie overflow method (Basically a primary drain is adjusted to match the return flow) he can eliminate any splashing and bubbles from the drain. (You commented about how quiet mine was which I attribute to the overflow method which eliminates all of the bubbles and splashing) If he does though he will want a secondary drain since a small blockage can cause the level to increase. (I think a secondary drain is important anyway as a backup regardless of the overflow method) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA2OR Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 I use no filter socks have no air bubbles or splashing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wanareef Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 I'm using the Bean Animal Silent OF and it works great - set it once and forget it. Uses three drains the primary, secondary and the backup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 I'm using the Bean Animal Silent OF and it works great - set it once and forget it. Uses three drains the primary' date=' secondary and the backup[/quote'] Essentially this is the same as the herbie except that it adds a third drain. If the secondary drain is adequate to handle the entire flow by itself though I don't think the third drain is necessary though it doesn't hurt to have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wanareef Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Essentially this is the same as the herbie except that it adds a third drain. If the secondary drain is adequate to handle the entire flow by itself though I don't think the third drain is necessary though it doesn't hurt to have it. Not to cause an argument, but the Bean Animal is a lot better than the Herbie, IMO. You do have that 3rd drain as a redundant back-up. Set it once and that's it. That is what so different about this hobby - so many variations, types of equipment to arrive at the same place - keeping corals alive and propagating them for our enjoyment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Not to cause an argument, but the Bean Animal is a lot better than the Herbie, IMO. You do have that 3rd drain as a redundant back-up. Set it once and that's it. That is what so different about this hobby - so many variations, types of equipment to arrive at the same place - keeping corals alive and propagating them for our enjoyment. Definately not an arguement. Rather just trying to analyze the difference. (Might go back and change mine if I can see enough reason to) I also only set mine once and don't mess with it. (I actually dribble a little over the secondary drain to keep the overflow level at the top which appears to be what that setup does) I think the concept is essentially the same. Regulate the drain to match the return which eliminates the noise as there is no longer any extra air flushing through it. From what I could see the only difference is that extra drain. I may have missed something though as I just did a quick read of it to see how it was set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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