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WTB Ocean revive units.


fishmanmike01

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Might have a t247 to sell shortly... not sure if I'll need all 3 that I have on this 3ftx3ft cube

Those are the same size correct? Can you run them without the programming? By that I mean just leave the dials on and power them with just the plug? Strait up on/off.

Edited by fishmanmike01
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Not sure... it's the exact same light as the Arctics but built in timers and light power level... it's only got one plug aswell so I'd think you could make that work if you didn't want straight blue time or something like that

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I have 3 of the Arctics too but wouldnt feel right selling them.. 2 have lost intensity and leds have straight died on them... 1 still seems fully functional but is probably right behind the other 2 in crapping out

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I have 3 of the Arctics too but wouldnt feel right selling them.. 2 have lost intensity and leds have straight died on them... 1 still seems fully functional but is probably right behind the other 2 in crapping out

Dirty HX's can cause this, PM me if you need some help :)

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Bought 3 of the t247s and was blown away by the difference... never even noticed the gradual decline of the Arctics til I got new lights

 

I have heard rumor of LED decline over time.  Sounds like you experienced it?  Interesting!

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Crud on your heat exchanger acts as an insulator which causes your light to run at a higher temperature. If the junction is hotter, the light emmited is less (thermal runaway). This is both an instantaneous problem and a long term issue. Long term it can lead to emitter degradation/failure.

 

the failed leds need replaced, the overall dimness is what it is with the exception of high running temperature issues (if it is causing enough output drop to be noticable).

 

Failed diodes can short dimming the channel, othertimes cause enough voltage drop to lower the overall voltage making the light seem dim. An hour alone with a multimeter (preferably with diode testing built in) and you should have it down to the root cause.

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