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Found 18 results

  1. Turnkey system. Good condition. Just add water... and some rock and substrate... Complete with Aquatic Life skimmer, Eheim return pump, Tunze powerhead for flow, cooling fan, 165 watt LED light, and heater. Easily $500 plus new, but it’s no longer new. Everything works, name brand stuff, less than 40% of new. $190 takes it all. Available afternoons this weekend. Call or text questions to 503-381-4026. Mark@mtkmeyer.com Thanks for looking. mark
  2. bamburgb

    Lighting repair

    Does anyone know how to repair lights? I have a programmable led I have had for a few years and it looks like the channel for the blue lights went out. Last time this happened with one of my other lights the maker repaired it, but since then he has liquidated the company and doesn’t work on them anymore. Wanting to see if anyone on here knows how to diagnose and work on lights that may be able to work on them depending on the cost, that way I can have my light as a backup (had to put my backup on the tank).
  3. Easy soft corals and fish. I want 24 hr light programmability on the unit (or attached/controller etc.). I want all the colors. Need it for 65g 36" tank. $100 max budget.
  4. I need a Full Spec LED light fixture and want to get something programmable or 2 channel day/night. I'm looking for an OR T247 or a 20" Current Orbit If you have either, or something comparable please let me know what you got! thanks
  5. danlu_gt

    ReeFi LED info

    ReeFi website is online: http://www.reefi-lab.com Pendant Style Reef LED with Built-in WiFi One time WiFi setup to connect to your home WiFi Auto sync time/date with google Auto calculate moon phase Auto restore programming after power outage Control/program single LED unit or group multiple LED units together Firmware can be updated wireless when new features are added 150W max power 50 3W Cree LEDs 500+ PAR at full power at 18"-20" below water surface Intensity dimmable over 1000 steps 36"x36" spread 24" below water surface, while hang 8"-10" above the water 120deg single large optical lens to prevent disco ball effect Optical lens can be adjust for change of light spread 5 Channels individual controllable, 10 3W LEDs per channel Ch1: Royal Blue 450nm Ch2: Mix Royal Blue and White 4000K Ch3: Mix UV1 395nm and UV2 420nm Ch4: Mix Deep Red and Cyan Ch5: Royal Blue 450nm 5 User Programmable modes: Sunrise, MidDay, Sunset, Night, and Moon. Also allow temporary user override mode User programmable ramp/dimming rate per mode Random cloud coverage during MidDay optional Peak hours with increase intensity during MidDay optional Adjustable cooling fan speed for different environments Program and control with any mobile device with any web browser. Android APP also available. Web interface: Here's a quick comparison to Kessil: 1) ReeFi LED max at 150w, Kessil a160 is only max at 40w 2) ReeFi LED 5 channels individually controllable, Kessil a160 only 2 3) ReeFi LED built-in WiFi works with any mobile device/laptop, Kessil need additional external controller 4) ReeFi LED can run on user set program (sunrise, midday, sunset, night, moon) and can ramp automatically, Kessil is only manual control 5) ReeFi LED has adjusted optical lens, Kessil fixed optical lens. Closest equivalent to ReeFi LED is Kessil top of the line AP700. ReeFi LED is $300, Kessil AP700 is $895!
  6. fmorris

    wtb/t a 36" light

    looking for a light to put over my mixed reef 40b. so seeing whats laying around that might be willing to part with. thanks for reading frank
  7. fmorris

    wtb/t a 36" light

    looking for a light to put over my mixed reef 40b. so seeing whats laying around that might be willing to part with. thanks for reading frank
  8. Kessil A360W Tuna Blue E series Reef Aquarium LED for sale. This includes the link cable, Apex cable, and Kessil gooseneck. Light is about two years old.
  9. I have two Kessil A360W Tuna Blue E series Reef Aquarium LEDs for sale. This includes the link cable, Apex cable, and Kessil goosenecks. One light is about 2 years old and the other is about a year. These have been run through an Apex controller and maxed at 75% for about 8 hours a day. Over $900 new.
  10. I have 2 Kessil A360WE Tuna Blue LED lights for sale. Includes 2 goosenecks, interconnect cable, and Apex connection cable. One has been used for about 18 months and the other for just under a year. They work great! I am upgrading to a hybrid fixture. Asking $550.
  11. Dual 400 Watt Metal Halide Ballast w/cords Pictures: http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pet/5456836299.html Ballast is in good used condition with a few paint chips/scratches. It does power on. Makes a slight humming/buzzing sound when on. I believe this is normal for most MH Ballasts. It has a date of Nov. 05 on back label. I assume this is the manufacture date. I bought this new but can't recall the date of purchase. It has been kept in dry storage for several years. Ballast was used in aquarium application. The cords are in ok shape - could use a little cleaning on the prong plugs. There is two (2) 400 watt XM bulbs. Not sure the age of the bulbs. Even though the bulbs light up, they probably should be replaced to get true spectrum and intensity. Manufacture: Sunlight Supply Inc. Vancouver, WA USA BW 2 Dual MH-400 Plus Start 120V 8A 800Watt 60Hz This ballast operates 2 metal halide mogul base lamps (400watt type M 135) $45.00 OBO (cash only) Sold As Is. No returns or trades. Item Location: Welches, Oregon 97067 - No shipping! Serious inquiries only, please.
  12. pipefish

    30" Finnex Planted +

    I'm tearing down one of my planted tanks and figured that the Planted + would make a good refugium light for those that have tons of macro algae. This is the one with moonlights but not the new one with the remote. I've had it ~10 months thus far. asking $75, please message me here if interested. thanks!
  13. Downsized my tank and have this LED set up we built ourselves. Meanwell drivers, Cree LEDs, and dimmer. Everything was working when we took it apart. Paid over $500 for all this originally. Asking for $100 (not including shipping costs) but will consider offers. Better someone else uses it than having it sit in my attic for the next 10 years!
  14. I bought this sweet tank from R-3 on the forum a few months ago with plans to upgrade to it but I am going to go bigger when I do upgrade. This is a beautiful set up. It is cleaned and stored safely in my shed wrapped in plastic. It's a 34 G Red sea max. Ryan modified it to have an open top and the cover goes over the back area. It's a nice clean set up. I am keeping some of the items from when I bought it from him. 34G Red Sea Max and stand with intank media basket - $200 ( I dont' have a picture as it is cleaned and covered for protection in the shed) Here is the original thread with pictures! It's a sweet tank and Ryan did some nice modifcations including a nice plug that hides all the cords! Unlike the picture it Ryan also modifed the cover so it is an open top covering only the back to hide all the cords. Looks really cool!: http://www.pnwmas.org/topic/32243-r-3s-red-sea-max-130d-nanopolis/ Ocean Revive Arctic LED $100 Tunze 9001 Skimmer $80 I still have the owner's manual and box and it's all cleaned up ready to go! This is a very nice skimmer and I would have kept it but it is too big for the back compartment of my Fusion 20 Koralia One $10 New in box Jebao RW-4 $40 SOLD CERK1985 This is brand new still in the box. I only opened it up and tried it out and then decided to go with the MP10. I paid 60 dollars for it new
  15. Bombertech

    Reef Lighting Theory Basics

    I grow tired of generalized blanket statements in regards to lighting technologies around here. What should be a learning experience for all has turned into a fool’s errand where not enough information is presented in the attempt to mislead in the name of sales numbers. So, to be helpful, I will do my best to explain some very important aspects of lighting specific to corals/fish. My hope is that this will present a baseline of understanding from which we can all increase our knowledge of how we can best care for our small oceans in a box. If this isn't for you, feel free to learn the following through trial and error PAR: PAR is measured as any wavelength between 400 and 700nm. Below is a graded chart for the Apogee PAR Meter. In this hobby we use PAR as a light intensity unit of measure. We use this versus lumens because lumens is weighted as the eye perceives it, not as a 1 for 1 comparison. When we talk about PAR, it is in relation to a properly built/tuned lighting system that already takes in to acount some efficiency. Correcting Chart for the Apogee PAR Meter Lumens Chart PUR/RQE: PUR (Photosynthetically Useful Radiation) and RQE (Relative Quantum Efficiency) are nanometer by nanometer efficiency ratings used to determine how useful/efficient any given wavelength is for use in photosynthesis. Zooxanthellae’s use of light: Zooxanthellae has evolved to use the high UV-A/violet/blue/cyan range more efficiently as it penetrates water more easily. Shallow water species can use the RQE peak (590-600nm Amber) more efficiently for photosynthesis as well as using this range for enhanced pigmentation (we’ll get to pigments/coloration a little bit later). So, as you can see, the green and yellow wavelengths are not very efficient for growing corals if one was to use them outright. However, we are not solely interested in growing corals, we strive for better coloration. I could grow brown corals fast all day with a high PUR/RQE Fixture but if the proper wavelengths in adequate spectrum are not present, color will not be at its full potential. Note the simularities between this chart and most spectral charts from reputable LED manufacturers. Fluorescent Pigments: Zooxanthellae are brown in appearance so the color we see are fluorescent and non-fluorescent pigments. Fluorescent Pigments absorb a wavelength (this is called excitation) and re-emit light at a high wavelength. This is called various things such as fluorescence, pop, color, etc. The more light in the excitation wavelength, the brighter the color will be. To make the color appear bright to our eyes, we try to balance lumens against the fluorescence of the corals to keep the color from being washed out by other light colors. It’s interesting to note that there are no documented fluorescent pigments with an excitation above 600nm. So orange/red does nothing for increased coloration in corals other than non-fluorescent pigments, most commonly seen in fish and a few red SPS species. Red is efficient light for coral growth but it can lead to diminished coloration (browning out). Kelvin Rating: Kelvin Rating is used as an overall color indicator of the light, this is based on the emitted color of a black iron kettle if it was heated to a specific temperature. Common kelvin ratings in aquaria are 10000K, 14000K, and 20000K. As the kettle gets hotter, the light gets bluer. However, since the overall color is the sum of light, there are numerous ways to get there. Some manufacturers use blue and white diodes (cool/neutral/warm/other) to mix up to a desired kelvin rating. Others opt for a more selective approach by using more specific wavelength diodes to maximize efficiency with both coloration and growth. Spectrum: UV-B/C: UV is divided into 3 bands, UV-A, UV-B, and UV-C. UV-C damages cells which can result in death to the organism, UV-B causes light damage but does not destroy cells instantaneously, UV-A is the least damaging of the UV types. Corals have evolved to protect themselves from light damage by producing their own sunscreen in the form of fluorescent proteins. UV-A: When 360-400NM are used, the corals adapt by increasing fluorescent pigments to convert the incoming color (UV) to something either usable for photosynthesis, or as a color that is less damaging. These can be anything from violet/blue/green/yellow/red and develop slowly over time. The outgoing wavelength is ALWAYS greater than the incoming. Outgoing wavelength is based on the genetics of the coral and what proteins it has. Now, think of the addition of UV-A like tanning. The right amount increases color but too much can stress the coral. What we have seen with the addition of UV-A is increased coloration. The color depth is more pronounced, you start to develop nice fluorescent violets that were not present before as there was no light to excite them. Growth increase a bit but not as much as the next band of light. These diodes are specially made for autoclaves and other medical equipment, they are hella expensive and no one carries them. Only a few light manufacturers use diodes that bleed into this range (The AI SOL Hydra 52’s for instance use 400nm peak diodes for this) Violet: 401-439nm is violet. People a lot of times call violet UV, it’s not and usually used in marketing. Violet is very high in RQE/PUR specific to corals (generally speaking useful light for zooxanthellae peaks at 430NM). This is where you get increased growth, and a lot of color. Technically, you can grow corals just fine on this light alone. If someone wanted to grow corals with the lowest amount of light, a fixture with just 420-430nm leds would be the most efficient light you could use. I ran a single 100W test fixture of 420-450nm violet/royal blue over a 48x48 tank for two year, growth was great and coral color was pretty decent. Royal Blue: 440-450nm: High efficiency, and good coral coloration. This is used quite a bit in the nicer commercial fixtures, however, since it adds a purple hue, the color will ultimately need balanced. Various lower end fixtures will omit this spectrum for 470nm blue. Blue: 460-480nm: This is a bright blue, it excites colors and has decent photosynthetic efficiency. Cyan: 490-510nm: Cyan excites fluorescent pigments, is low/mid-range in photosynthetic efficiency, and gives a desirable hue to the water. Green: 515-550nm: Green excites some fluorescent pigments, is low in PUR (gradient downwards the higher the wavelength gets), and high in lumens which can overpower other colors if we are not careful. Lime: 566nm: Lime is low in PUR but excites a lot of Yellow/Orange/Red Pigments. It is also used for white balancing and increasing lumens. MH/T5 usually have a parasitic peak at 560nm. Amber: 690-600nm: Amber is low in PUR but excites a lot of Yellow/Orange/Red Pigments. It is also used for white balancing and increasing lumens. Orange/Red: 601-700nm: Red is used by chlorophyll A present in zooxanthellae with a peak efficiency (PUR) of 660nm. HOWEVER, there are ZERO fluorescent proteins in this range. So, you get growth, but it can “brown” the coral. Commercial fixtures use a lot of red to make up for the lack of PUR on the violet/royal blue side but it comes at a heavy price to coloration. This is where the age old “10-14K = fast growth, bad color, 20k = slow growth, good color” comes from. BUT, there is an infinite amount of ways to mix color to get to 14/20K. Red is also used for non-fluorescent red pigments (such as the red color on fish, and some corals). White LED’s: White LED’s should be used cautiously but a lot of times they are not. Personally, I only use a couple to decrease pixelization between colors also known as CRI (color rendition index). It is important to select the right white leds. Cool white has a peak of blue which is fine, but also a lot of green and drops before it gets a lot of lime/amber (so you lose color potential overall but you can white balance with it). Warm White has a peak at 620nm orange, but puts us into red. This isn’t good for coloration, but is fine for growth. Somewhere in the middle is a decent white, sometimes called neutral white: for me, that means looking at each vendors spectrum graphs to find one that minimizes anything above 600nm, but doesn’t put us to far into the green spectrum. These vary based on manufacturer and binning. Custom whites (toted by some vendors) can be more efficient that the other white diodes but it really depends on what you are trying to do. Personally, even the most highly acclaimed custom white diodes I’m seeing have a lot of waste spectrum you could eliminate by using different narrow band diodes. But, that costs more money and would have to come out of the bottom line and take away from things like marketing. A quality light at a fair price sells itself in my experience. We are starting to see vendors drift away from the blue/white start we saw at the beginning of the LED evolution. With this as a knowledge baseline we can discuss the pro’s/cons of various light systems. -Matt (Bombertech)
  16. bamburgb

    WTB LED light

    Im looking at setting up my older 30 gal biocube and wanting to kinda stay cheap on the lights, does anyone know of a cheaper LED light that has legs that would be able to go over the tank? It currently has a metal hailide that i do not want to be using, and im trying to stay cheaper on this.
  17. I have developed a good relationship with Chinese LED manufacturer. They make very high quality lights that have been proven to grow coral well, and are built very well. I have been in discussions with them regarding becoming a distributor here in the US. My question to you all is this: If you could purchase and LED light direct from manufacturer for, let's say $110, including shipping, would you be willing to pay more for that same light if you could purchase it locally, with a return/exchange policy that did not require shipping back to China. If the local distributor could swap faulty units, and make simple repairs for you, and could even provide loaner lights if your unit needed to be sent back for repair, would that be worth paying more for? Also, being able to see the light in action prior to purchasing it, see it over a reef tank. Would you pay $195 for a light with local support? Even if you could get it online for $110? Thanks in advance for any feedback you all provide, it would be very valuable!
  18. I'm selling my whole setup. I'll sell the whole thing for $700 dollars obo; it includes: - 60 gallon tank with stand and cleaning magnet and ecoplus pump 264 GPH. ($140 obo if sold separately). - 5 gallon acrylic sump with refuge space ($100 obo if sold separately). - 120 W LED light ($300 obo if sold separately). - Hammerhead Coral $15 dollars a head ($220 obo if you take the whole thing; it's got 20+ heads). - Live Rock ($80 obo if sold separately). - Sand bed ($40 obo if sold separately). - 2 Clown Fish ($8 each). - Skunk Cleaning shrimp ($20 obo if sold separately). - Halloween Hermit Crab ($20 obo if sold separately). Let me know if you are interested and I'll send pics. My number is 503 449 1187
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