Spschampion

All fish sold!!! Thank you and please close

I have someone coming tomorrow morning to pick up everything. If he bails, I will let all interested parties know. Thanx Pete

Also up for sale Clown pair Male normal 1.5” $25.00 Female Black storm 2.5” $50.00

Yellow tang sold!

Up for sale: Yellow tang 4” $65.00 Yellow eye kole tang 5” $65.00 Hippo tang 3” $50.00 Red Christmas Wrasse 4” $50.00 Cleaner shrimp x2 $15.00 Red tuxedo Urchin $10.00 Green Chromis x2 Free with purchase All fish eat great and have been living in my tank for several years. Not looking for trades. Thanx Pete

Hi, thought I would answer the asked questions. My tank is 2.5 years old. It is a mixed reef but still SPS dominated. I do 10% water changes every other week. I use roughly 35 Ml a day of BRS soda ash and calcium carbonate before the crash. Now, it’s about 16 ML. I uste to do weekly 10% water changes but I struggled with low nutrient based issues. I will say that at that time the corals were happier. For now, I don’t want to change anything until I see the ICP results. Then I’ll make some changes if necessary and do another ICP test after the changes have had some time to take effect. Looking forward to seeing results!

Hi Emerald525, I recently did have a tank crash and am still currently recovering. The tank crash was due to unstable alk/swings. Took me awhile to figure it out. However, this crash caused me to start taking water chemistry into consideration. Seems like every time I have issues, it comes back to water chemistry. Just looking to do it “better”!

Hi, I have been using BRS brand soda ash and calcium carbonate on a dosing pump for quite some time. I have never really done much other then weekly/bi-weekly water changes for trace elements. I recently came across BRS addition of the tropic marine trace element supplementation/BRS hybrid program. I understand the addition of the trace elements to the alk and calcium supplements. However, It don’t really get the part “C” deal. I have watched their videos several times. I understand that dosing Soda ash and calcium carbonate results in a rise of salinity over time. I just have never seen this happen in my tank. Is the water changes enough to mitigate this problem. I am starting to question if the part “C” is really necessary. Maybe it’s just for people who don’t do water changes? Don’t know if anyone else uses this method and what their thoughts maybe on it. I just ordered a ATI ICP test. I am curious to see if I am actually lacking trace elements or if the water changes are enough to cover that as well. Thanx in advance, Pete

I noticed that when I was dosing NOPOX into my tank, it dropped nitrate really fast! It didn’t seem to change phosphate much though. I have heard others state that they had similar results. Might be worth a try?!?!

Maybe try doing a google search with the specs of the driver??? if that doesn’t work maybe a electronics store like Fry’s could help?

Pmd

Appreciate your guys input. I have had it happen a few times too. Usually it’s been in a cheap enough coral that I just ate it. Just sucks when it happens with a more expensive chunk. Thanks again, Pete

Hi, I have a general question for the group. If I buy a coral(usually sps) mail order or from a LFS I get it home in a timely manner and do proper acclimation/dip techniques and I wake to a bone white skeleton, is there any kind of replacememt policy or is a reefer just [language filter] outta luck? I realize this may differ from store to store? Just something to take into consideration

Pmd

Sounds like rushing water to me. I think all the auto flush deal is a solenoid on a timer. The flush before and after using the RODI is to clean out the membrane. Supposed to make it last longer. Hope this helps, Pete

If you want a piece I have a lot. I am in Gresham

Just out of curiosity, is this the same thing? I got it awhile back, with no I.D. have seen a number of things that look similar. If it is mad mike and you want a frag I’ll definitely cut you one. This thing grows like crazy in my tank!

Hi, I have to disagree with some of the information on here. Small equipment certainly can be serviced. It often requires that taps are brazed onto the system. The problem with small equipment is that often the service cost can be nearly as much as a new unit. The main thing that would limit your chillers capacity is having a dirty condenser. Many people think that using a brush is enough since it removes the outer dirt, but I found that blowing the condenser out with pressure of really any kind gets the junk from the inside out. You can usually tell if the condenser is plugged by sticking your hand behind the fan. If the air comes straight out, your good! If it feels like it’s mostly coming out of the sides, then your plugged. If you or anyone else for that matter needs help with chillers I am more then willing to help. I do refrigeration for a living. Hope this helps! Pete

Is that Hawkins Echinata?

I have treated my entire system with phosphate RX a bunch of times. I have never had anything in my tank respond badly. However, I do it in steps! Everything slow in reefing! Just saying I don’t think you need to just treat the sump.

First of all thanks for the replys. My tank total water volume is about 100 gallons. Suncrest reef, I noticed something very similar to what you stated about alkalinity consumption During the photo period. I dose way more during the day then at night. Unfortunately, I have not employed a apex system yet. Would like to in the future. I’m sure that this is a way more accurate way to control additives. For now, I’m stuck with the old manual test and adjust. Albertareef, I am interested to see how the microbial balance effects the nutritional balance of our systems. Thanx again, Pete

Hi reefing community, My tank is about a year and a half old now. In that time I have learned a lot and spent a lot of money! Something I have struggled with, is long term stability. I can keep the big three(alkalinity, calcium, magnesium) really steady for 3 to 6 months. But, inadvertently something gets messed up. I test alkalinity every other day and calcium, magnesium, phosphate and nitrate weekly. Adjustments are made periodically to keep things even as possible. Water changes are done every other week to the tume of about 10%. I’ve put in a lot of effort to keep my alkalinity steady. I think it is within a 1/4 of a point DKH at all times. Every month or so I test alkalinity every two hours for a 24 hour period to try to detect any swings. Any tips on achieving rock solid elements long term? Just sucks when things get messed up. Almost always results in Acropora death! Thanx Pete

Hi, about a year and a half ago, I replaced a bunch of the LEDs in my mars aqua. I tried to match the LED layout of the SB reef lights. I noticed the other day that many of the UV spectrum diodes have blackened the lense. I also noticed that sbreef lights claims they use a different lense for their UV diodes that is supposed to last longer. Anyone have much experience with the board retro fit kits? I am also considering just getting an entirely new lights. I think the ones I have are likely 5+ years old. Not sure how long the drivers are good for. Just noticed YouTube has a bunch of negative reviews of the sbreeflights failing after about a year and it taking several months to get a replacement. Anyone have experience with this? I would like to use sbreeflights products since I have had great results using their spectrum. Plus, I feel I kind of owe them since I did copy their spectrum. Thanx Pete

I just built mine out of egg crate. Cheap and easy

Thanx Brian, I’ll throw some new rocks in there too