NateDawg

Hi all,

Looking for a 13 LED AI Prime HD. 

Thanks for looking!

Pm sent.

My go-to is using black Plasti Dip spray. I clean the side of the tank very well with alcohol to get rid of any oils from fingers, manufacturing, etc. I then spray about 3-5 coats of the Plasti Dip. This makes a light rubber coating that can be removed like taking a rubber glove off if you were to change the location of the tank or sell it in the future. The more coats, the easier it is to peel off.

Hi all, looking for a pm1 module to replace one that quit taking readings from the probes, thanks!

Bump, still looking. Thanks!

Also, be aware that reagents can have some pretty nasty chemicals and if your going to print a part that touches the reagent, you'll have to make sure the material is suitable against the reagents.

6 hours ago, Knuckledragger said:

That certainly seems to match closely. Any thoughts on keeping it or should I consider it a pest and get rid of it?

For me it grew similarly to zoas and just treated them as such. I personally never had an issue with them taking over.

Look up Sympodium coral. That'd be my guess.

No issues for me either so far, tested both wifi and hard connection. Last update disabled all my older modules and took forever to get working again.

1 hour ago, CB92 said:

I was recently looking  for a sump and ended up buying a kit on ebay that allows you to convert a regular aquarium into a sump. I think a 40 breeder is close to the dimensions you are looking for and  you can do the same I did with a kit to convert the aquarium. 
 

here is a pic of mine. 

I've seen those, yours looks great! That might be what I end up with. I'm hoping to find something just a bit longer to accommodate the compartment dimensions that I have in mind. The standard 75 gallon could possibly work for my needs.

41 minutes ago, pdxmonkeyboy said:

Nate. If you go that route i have a cabinet saw and plastic blade. I even have professional acrylic solvent. 

That sounds great! I'll provide the refreshments!

13 hours ago, obrien.david.j said:

Chopping an acrylic tank or sump that's too big down to size isn't too bad.   I used a used 24x24x48" tank to make a ~39" sump out of.    You could start by looking for a 48" x 24" x 20" used tank, and chop it.   Yes, you have to be a bit handy.

Here's picts of my chop.  I also had to grind off twin external overflows, but thats not common.

 

Good idea! I do have a few pieces of half inch acrylic and some weld-on that I can use to make baffles.

18 hours ago, MrBret said:

Sump measures 47.5 long by 20 inches wide by 16 inches tall

Ooh that might be too long, I'll measure again when I get home. Is it a glass or acrylic sump?

10 hours ago, MrBret said:

I have one that I think is pretty close to those deminsions.  It was under one of the frag tanks at other store. I'll measure tonight and let ya know

Awesome, thanks!

Hello, looking to buy a larger sump or tank something in the range around 40" x 24" x 20". Doesn't need to be pretty and could be a fixer-upper. Or if anybody has ideas for a sump that would fit those dimensions somewhat, I'd appreciate it! Thanks for looking!

I am a Supporting Member

Hello, does anyone have a neptune dos and/or fmm module they are looking to sell? I'm down in Albany but am willing to travel and/or have shipped before purchasing online. Thanks!

I wonder if they have some new software developers that they've hired on who are still new to the program.

3 hours ago, SuncrestReef said:

@NateDawg  I just got an update from another person who had the same problem:

”I ended up opening a ticket. They advised to disconnect the aquabus cable and update the firmware for the module then partially through the update plug the aquabus cable back in. The update concluded and I had a green light on the module.”

Give that a try.  I’m crossing my fingers! 

Yes! this worked for me as well. Took a couple tries but did what you said. Unplugged the module, then updated the firmware. After about 20 seconds, I plugged the aquabus cable back into the module and everything is all of a sudden back online! Very strange... hopefully there isn't any corrupted code anywhere now... Thanks a bunch!!

5 minutes ago, SuncrestReef said:

What if you try to force a software update to the PM1 from its configuration screen?

Yeah, I tried that unfortunately. It's odd because fusion seems to be able to connect to it because when I tried to update the software of the module, I didnt get an error message, just a software has been updated message. I've gone and changed the location where the module is plugged in and even gone and deleted the module off of fusion to try and re-setup the module. As soon as its plugged in, the apex recognizes it but labels it as disconnected because that makes sense.... I went ahead and sent in a support ticket with Neptune.

1 hour ago, SuncrestReef said:

Do you have a Display module connected to your Apex?  I saw someone else report that if they unplug the Display module, the other missing module then worked.  It’s worth a shot.

Thanks for helping me out with this, I dont have a display module unfortunately. Do you know if there is a way to revert back to the previous AOS at least? This pm module is unfortunately the one that's running my calc reactor.

Weird thing is that I can still send the module "configurations" despite fusion saying its disconnected. The pH probe I have connected wont show up on my dashboard however.

I finally updated my apex to the latest OS and for some reason apex fusion is now saying that my pm1 module is disconnected... tried to update the software of the module, unplugged and plugged it back in. Restarted the apex twice but nothing... The status light on the module is now orange instead of green. Anybody have a fix for this before I reach out to Neptune about it. Thanks!

Not super great pics but here's a couple of my 90 gallon cube.

This is a common problem with acrylic lenses and UV spectrum LEDs. The UV that's emitted from the LED will eventually break down the plastic lense similarly to leaving a piece of plastic out in the full sun, eventually it will start breaking down. The diode itself most likely is not damaged, depending on the manufacture or the LED chip and the quality.