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NateDawg

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NateDawg last won the day on January 13

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About NateDawg

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    Mantis
  • Birthday 09/30/1995

core_pfieldgroups_99

  • Location
    Albany, OR

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  • Location
    Albany, OR

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  1. Thank you!
  2. Thanks!, I don't think I could go back to not having one, it does take some practice but it can sure pay off sometimes. Now I just have to wait and see if its sealed enough to be usable in an aquarium environment.
  3. I then coated the magnets with a light bit of oil and glued the two shells on it with some Cyanoacrylate glue and let the harden. Once they were cured, I added a little more glue to all the seems and then sanded down the impeller shaft till it was smooth(ish). Then put everything back together tested the pump, and it works! I have the impeller sitting in saltwater for a couple weeks to see if it sealed properly. But if it did, I ended up saving about $50-$60 for a new impeller!
  4. I then made a 3d model using tinkercad that matched the dimensions of the impeller before the plastic shell was taken off. printed the model. and made sure that the pieces fit.
  5. The first thing I'd like to put in here is how I repaired a maxspect gyre magnet shaft. This shaft had its magnet swelled up and cracked from using vinegar to clean it. I first took off the protective plastic shell and scraped off all of the rust and sanded the corroded magnet down to it's original size of about 13mm in diameter. Then I cleaned and measured all of the magnet shaft diameters so I could build a 3d print of a new shell.
  6. I'm not sure if there is already a thread like this but I wanted to put together some builds and repairs I've done using a 3d printer and share the 3d models with others as well as a place for others to share their ideas with one another.
  7. Here is a good example of what vinegar will do to a maxspect gyre shaft. I bought his pump about 5ish months ago used, cleaned it with vinegar, washed and rinsed, then put the pump in storage for a future build. Pulled it out today and had to basically hammer the impeller out because neodymium magnet that was encased swelled up.
  8. Excellent work as usual! Just curious, why is it not advised to increase the frequency of data logging?
  9. Yup, I'm not sure of the concentration though, I'd start out very little on the baking soda part to water, then add little little by little to make sure it doesn't burn the coral tissue, but if it's just applied to the glue before attaching the coral to it, should be fine and there's not even a need to rinse the frag since the baking soda can only add to the alkalinity of the tank which is usually a good thing.
  10. If anybody is interested in the chemical makeup of the insta set, here is a link to the msds for this stuff. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.bsi-inc.com/sds_pdf/sds_insta_set.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjKjdrJq-7mAhXXvZ4KHf64CtgQFjAAegQIBRAB&usg=AOvVaw12znQ7wYVqYykgWBAXPf6K The two ingredients in it are: 1. Naphtha (Petroleum) Hydrotreated Heavy 2. N,N Dimethyl-P-Toluidine Might want to be a bit careful while using this stuff. Just looking at some safety data sheets for the second ingredient, they state that it's highly toxic to both humans and aquatic life. I know superglue will cure faster in alkali conditions and I usually use a small spray bottle of baking soda water and that has done me pretty well if I need to have the frag glue faster. I'm not sure if it's as effective as the insta-set from brs though. Only costs pennies to make though which is nice.
  11. If you end up going with the two sumps, it's easy to just cut a good sized hole in both sumps on either side where you want them connected then stand one sump on its end, add a few drops of acrylic weld-on to the one side and set the other sump on top of it allowing gravity to push the sumps together. Make sure the weld-on completely filled the gaps between the two sumps and when it cures, those two sumps will be stronger than if they were one unit to begin with. And no chance of them leaking if it was bonded correctly.
  12. I'm not sure about the red sea stand hinges but if they are bare metal like mine were, I took some rustoleum spray paint and gave the hinges a good couple coats on all the parts of the hinge then took some bearing grease and coated everything that rubbed or moved in the hinge with a thick layer of the stuff. I've had those hinges for 6 years and they don't have a bit of rust on them except for the one little scratch I made on one of them.
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