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NateDawg

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About NateDawg

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    Mantis
  • Birthday 09/30/1995

core_pfieldgroups_99

  • Location
    Albany, OR

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Albany, OR

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  1. I'm not sure about the red sea stand hinges but if they are bare metal like mine were, I took some rustoleum spray paint and gave the hinges a good couple coats on all the parts of the hinge then took some bearing grease and coated everything that rubbed or moved in the hinge with a thick layer of the stuff. I've had those hinges for 6 years and they don't have a bit of rust on them except for the one little scratch I made on one of them.
  2. You'd probably either want to sell the tanks as a whole (will probably be harder to sell this way) or start by selling live stock/live rock then the equipment. As far as pricing, that's gunna be more based on what you feel it's worth. Live rock usually goes for around +-$2 per pound on the forum. I'd suggest looking for some other entire system sells in the classified section of this forum and see how they sold there systems.
  3. I use an ender 3 and an ender 5 for printing, both are under 500 and I've had successful prints from the very start. Non dyed ABS is going to be the plastic you want to print with if it's a part that will be under water for long amounts of time. It's hard to work with and needs a high temperature to not warp when printing. So I'd say look for one that's enclosed so you can control the temperature better. PLA is a easier plastic to print and works great outside of a saltwater environment. Its non toxic but since it's made from corn, it will break down over time much quicker than ABS but it's what I would suggest to start printing with first.
  4. Maybe I need to switch to more efficient equipment 😂
  5. That seems really good for the water volume! I'm about $30 per month down here in Albany, OR with only about 90 gallons. How much is electricity up there? It's about $0.11 per kilowatt here.
  6. Could changing light fixtures be cause of microbe change?
  7. NateDawg

    ABS black sheets

    You'd probably have to contact a plastics company for black ABS. I've only ever found them on-line down here in Oregon.
  8. No problem! I've never had good luck with leathers personally for some reason but the increased light might help.
  9. Do you have any coral that look like they are stretching towards the light? This is really visible with zoanthids and palythoa. If you've had it running on %50 for a little while and nothing is closing up or bleaching, I'd say it's probably safe to bump up the intensity 10-15% a week or every other week.
  10. There are quite a few factors that will determine this. From my understanding, the only use for a diffuser is to make the various spectrums of leds to blend together better. And then the amount of light can be adjusted with the intensity knob. The amount of light needed for soft coral is generally pretty low and without a par meter or knowing the par of that particular light at various depths of the tank it will be hard to say what percentage to have it at. I think the best thing to do is to start low and work your way up, coral won't generally suffer from to low of light in the short term but can easily be damaged or killed if exposed to too high of intensity of light. Is this the first light th you've had on the tank or do you know the wattage of the light that was used previously? The light that you are using is rated at around 90 watts of light output at 100% in reality this will most likely be less. So if you were previously running 90 watts or more, then it would be somewhat safe to say that you could run at 100% but it's still a good idea start lower. Another factor with leds is that if you can run them lower they will last longer too.
  11. I betcha you could swap both some water and a few small pieces of live rock from other people's tanks if you wanted some more diversity. I've got a relatively new tank compared to yours and I, most of the time, will add the water from other people's tanks into my tank. That can be risky so make sure you have a good idea about how there tank is doing first. But I haven't had issues yet and have a large diversity for a tank that's only two years old that I started with dry rock and sand.
  12. I wish my purple tang ate GHA, actually for that matter, I wish he ate algae period.... he's the most picky tang I've ever seen. The only thing I can get him to eat is dried red algae. I just picked up a cute little dolabella sea hare today from CNC to finally start eating the hair algae, hopefully... Back on topic, since there is algae in the main DT, there must be a nutrient source for it. I wonder if my api nitrate test kit isn't good enough to pick up the nitrates. I'm wondering though, if I start a small carbon dose, just enough to boost the bacteria and strip the nitrates all together and starve out the algae. And also start adding amino acids and tiny small polyp based foods for the coral (such as reef chilli) to as a food source instead of the nitrates and phosphates? Is that more of a flawed idea, or maybe possible and helpful for data for collection?
  13. What do you suppose is causing the GHA then? Everything thing looks minimal to zero for testing, but something must be feeding the nasty stuff.
  14. Looks nice! Did it effect your PH at all?
  15. Yeah, I haven't done any so any would be fine, though my tank does struggle to keep alkalinity above 8 so I'd say either the ethanol or your carbon additive. I haven't seen really any nitrates in my tank but I do have issues with GHA so I know they're there.
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