Taylorhardy1

You're gonna stir up the sand alot while moving it. Ime it's best practice to just replace the sandbed. Otherwise you run the risk of stirring the detritus all throughout the sand, creating an enormous nutrient factory. It's hard enough controlling the variables of new sand, and 5x as hard to fix the issues an old sandbed can create. If it were me, I'd remove the sandbed first keeping 1-2lbs, then move the tank, then add the live sand you kept, then add the dry sand and your base rocks. Then I'd let it run 24-48 hours to clear up, then add the livestock. You wont have much of a cycle, if any by going this route. The rocks will contain enough bacteria to keep things balanced, and help aid the live sand in seeding the dry sand.

I have a 65g, with a stand and canopy and a 20l I used for a sump sitting in my garage. It has some scratches, could use a reseal, and a good scrubbing but it worked great for me when I had it up. I've got a bunch of rock as well that I would let go with the tank for cheap. Really nice size to get a feel for the hobby in.

I'm not sure why it's gotten so bad, I think the vodka dosing fueled it, then my attempts to raise nutrients just helped it explode. Hoping a large water change, with removing a bit of the sandbed helps atleast slow it. I might try some bacteria colonies as well. Anyone have any favorites?

I guess I'll start siphoning the sand out while doing water changes and start attacking from that route. Maybe I'll try another round of chemiclean and do a 50% water change 24 hours later if the sand bed removal doesn't cure it.

I have a few random small sps pieces I've accidentally broken off laying on my sandbed I can bring to the meeting, yours free. If you wanna try your hand at some sps that is.

Nothing that I can think of. Id imagine anything like that would have decomposed by now.

I should clarify, by tap I mean a regularly maintained ro system designed for drinking water. Anyways, photos of alleged crime scene. Running an air stone in short few minute bursts in my return chamber to help with airation while my skimmer is off. My water isn't nearly as cloudy as the photos appear, but there is an obvious bacterial bloom.

Alright everyone, I have an issue I am absolutely stumped on. I have a cyano outbreak that just won't go away, it seems to be progressing to a combination of Dino and cyano at this point, and my methods of treatment have not worked in the slightest. This issue started once I changed from treated tap water, to Rodi water as I had assumed the tap although reading a consistently low tds(5-20) was provoking a gha issue I had. Switched to Rodi, and wasn't able to track phos/nitrates well due to the nutrient lock created by the gha. Continued with Rodi, and very light vodka/vinegar dosing. (3ml/day) picked up a seahare, and the gha was eaten, and whatever was left starved out over a few weeks, then in came the cyano bloom. At this point the nutrient lock created by the gha had been eradicated and I was able to test nutrients levels again. The day I removed my seahare I had only noticed a few small thin patches of cyano. Didn't think much of it, turned up my flow a small amount more, and thought my tank was starting to really settle in. Throughout the next week I tested ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and phos daily. Ammonia and nitrite remained undetectable, and nitrates jumped from 5-10 throughout the week, until settling around 5, phos read 0.05-0.08. Once I had my phosphates and nitrates exactly where I wanted them, I continued carbon dosing at the existing rate, and cut back on testing. Flash forward a week, my entire rock structure was coated in a thick mat of cyano. Nutrient levels remained steady where I wanted. Siphoned out as much as I could during a 25% wc, and did a 3 day blackout, followed by a recommended dose of chemiclean, and then another 25% waterchange 3 days later. Around this time my nitrates and phos became undetectable, and my acros started to look pale, lps and softies were really unhappy. I quit carbon dosing, and monitored closely for the return of nitrates and phosphates while feeding heavily daily. At this point I decided it was time to test my fresh mixed water for imbalances. From both the tap, and rodi I had ideal levels. Phosphates were at 0.01 in the tap, and undetectable with rodi so I quickly ruled them out for causing the issue. At this point the cyano had returned just as heavily as before, so I dosed 2x the recommended amount of chemiclean. This go round it just seemed to make the cyano almost turn into a red hair algae. Waited 1 week from the day of the dose, and did a 50% water change siphoning out as much cyano as possible, and started vacuuming small sections of my sandbed. Normally I don't touch my sandbed because I have various sand sifters, and flow high enough to keep the top layer slowly moving. Didn't pull a whole lot out, but there was a bit of detritus that came up. Since the issue has arisen I've done atleast 10-20% weekly waterchanges. After the second treatment failed, I went back to tap water to attempt to benefit from the small amount of p04 it carried. Now we're where I'm at today. The rocks are almost entirely covered in a mat of cyano. There appears to be Dino, and random patches of cyano all over the sandbed. With everything else I've tested, the only viable explanation I can come up with is a massive imbalance in the Redfield ratio. I'm feeding 2 cubes of frozen daily, dosing 5ml of phyto, 5ml of zoo, and 2 frozen silversides to my eel every other day. I'm still having trouble getting my n03 and p04 back up, though whenever I do it seems to be 1 or the other. I've pulled my filter socks, turned my skimmer off, and am letting my macro in my fuge grow till it dies back off to help theoretically boost nutrient levels. I currently am not running any sort of mechanical filtration aside from whatever my macro ends up catching. I'm not sure which steps to take from here in order to solve this issue. At this point I'm convinced that this issue is presenting itself due to lack of nutrients, creating an imbalance of nutrients that can't be controlled or stabilized. Not sure how much of a nutrient lock cyano and Dino can create, but Im definitely having a tough time keeping everything alive and somewhat happy through this. I'm honestly not sure where I should go from here. Worried anything else I do might be the final tipping point that causes a real crash. I've thought about bacteria colonies, but I'm not sure there's enough nutrients for them to take off, and take over. I'm at a loss here. Any advice to how you solved your cyano issues would be greatly appreciated!

I just add more phyto/zooplankton when I need to boost my nitrates. Works well, and gives my sps really nice pe.

Updated the list with things I've decided to sell. Just can't bring myself to part with alot of things in my tank currently. I'll probably add more stock to the list as my move gets closer. Will add more photos when I get a chance to get some good ones.

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So excited about this!

I'm praying my I won it. Mobile version only shows my reply as so many minutes ago. I really want this piece haha. Guess we will have to see what cnc decides.

That was a close one.

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$51.

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$31. Im ready to battle it out for this one.

I'll be there for the meeting, not sure exactly how much I'll be wanting to buy all at once, but id love to support a local shop!

The new tank plans are just too exciting, and I need some drool worthy corals to enjoy until I can start making bigger moves on it.