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pdxmonkeyboy

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Posts posted by pdxmonkeyboy


  1. So wait... are you saying you are adding monkeys to your tank?
    i kid... I kid. Lots of good points and it reminds me that I keep meaning to track down a good magnifying glass!  
    well, i got a pair of those $7 amazon glasses with multiple magnifier lenses... dont like them. you have to hold things soooo close to your face. I did find some AEFW eggs on a frag though.

    I was dipping all my acros and rinsing them and putting them back. Any way you slice it... NOT a fun part of "the hobby" it just makes a mess no matter what you do :(


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  2. Very well said and as a biologist i can certainly see your point. I mean, if you look at countries like japan that are complete germaphobes (anti bacterial clothing, etc), they have are more susceptible to infections because there immune systems are compromised as they are not as robust as someone exposed to lots of germs.
    So in this sense, it seems logical that not going overboard on QT would not make sense because if fish or corals are healthy, they can thrive despite the presence of pathogens.

    On the other hand.. one doesn't contract a mild case of AIDS, or don't sweat it, its just a little HSV2..

    It seems to me that there are certain things you can roll the dice with.. velvet, ich. And certain things that once you get, it will systematically crush your tank over time. red bugs, acro spiders, AEFW.

    It seems at the very least, everyone keeping sps should have a 15x hand loop and a dipping regime.


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  3. oh yeah. From what i have read and talked to others, bayer is the gold standard of dipping for corals. For my sps QT i have a cheap ebay T5 setup over a 20 gallon. dip 2x a week and look for flukes. When you dont see flukes for 2 weeks, one more dip and you are good to go (for AEFW). Also.. always cut off base rocks.

    In regards to inverts, there are many places that sell inverts (and chaeto) from fishless systems so you are guaranteed no ich cysts.



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  4. Hello everyone! 
    Like the title asks, I'd like to discuss our personal disease/pest prevention.  A few months back I finally paid for my own lack of QT and got an ich/velvet outbreak and went from 15 fish to 4 inside of a couple of days.  The reason I say it may have been ich when it seems more like a velvet timeline is because I had been throwing fish and livestock in willy-nilly since the start and kind of suspect that I finally tipped some scale and the ich went nuts.  Either way, I about wiped out my fishstock due to my own laziness.  Bummer.  After some consideration I decided that if I'm sticking with this hobby for the long haul, and I am, I ought to get serious about all aspects of reefkeeping.  I had already been aware that skipping quarantine was a bad choice and this seemed like a good time to finally get this figured out.
    I salvaged the last 4 (clowns, pajamafish and a lawnmower) by setting up a 20g QT with some 4" pvc tubes and appropriate gear.  My fledgling QT procedure was born and here we are.  Fast forward to now and those four were treated with copper and prazi and allowed to chill in the QT for 76 days to wait out the ich cysts.  Essentially I fallowed my DT and now the 4 are back, healthy and ready to go.  I currently have 2 medium Swallowtail Angels (Thanks Jeff!) in QT beginning their copper.  There will be no exceptions to this rule in my system.  I ignored these procedures for the first 3 years and paid dearly for it, so I no longer believe that to be a responsible or successful way to introduce fishstock.  I hope we can help some folk out with this discussion.
    What I want to discuss for my own sake is everything else.  I know a lot of people don't see this as necessary but for the sake of the conversation, let's pretend it is.  There has been enough reports of pest eggs hiding inside of coral skeletons to warrant at least a look at what the hypothetical cleanest procedure would be.  Obviously inverts are going to have to sit and stare at the wall for 76 days if we can agree that cysts can live on their shell.  There isn't much to be done.  How do I keep them alive for 76 days in an unmedicated QT?  Any experience here?  
    Then there's the million-dollar question: How do I safely QT coral?  I tend to get mostly SPS with a smattering of LPS/Softies if they're really nice.  I want to know the most foolproof methodology here.  Bayer is on the agenda, but I need the most bulletproof procedures here for using it.  Things like AEFW and red/black bugs terrify me worse than the fish diseases.  Currently the only thing I have working knowledge of is to do a thorough inspection of the coral before ever considering purchase.  I am completely new to dips for coral other than brief Seachem Reef Dip baths.  I'd like to hear about these types of products  that have the most proven track record.  Also I am definitely aware of the problem with being unable to kill eggs this way.  Is this going to require dosing or regular coral QT WC's?  Let's hear it!  
    Well I will say this. I always qt and treat my fish with copper and prazi. I didn't QT a trio of anthias i got because i was just excited. Then two days later... ich in the tank. Not the end of the world but it has yo be dealt with sooner or later. You CAN live with ich.. but why?

    Flash forward.. I never QT my coral. Just a dip or two, then in the tank. Then my sps just stopped growing? then some STN, then it stopped. Finally I got a magnifying glass and looked at them.... UGGHHH.. i had acro eating flat worms!!

    Again, not the end of the world but here i am just because I wanted to do things the easy way.

    The great thing about forums is that there is so much good information out there. The problem with forums is that you can always find someone that says what you want to hear. From "this product is amazing" to " i have never QT a thing in 10 years and never had a problem.

    So for me, because I have a great deal of money in my tank I told myself everything gets QT'd. The extra time it takes is well worth it to know that I am not letting parasites into my display tank.

    Hope this helps





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  5. That's what you get for using all those technical terms - got to stay away from the science jargon you know

    sorry, i have been reading allot about Alabama in the last week trying to figure out how on earth Roy Moore can even be close in the poles. turns out alabama is the 5th or 6th dumbest state in the country (depends on the survey). I guess its just rubbing off on me.

     

    FFR.. west virginia amd hawaii often battle for the status of dumbest state but WV is also in the top 3 of highest rate of obesity so i think that is where I'm going to move to.

     

    anywho.. i just got my bill of lading for my tank. The crate and tank combined = 770lbs! yikes

     

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  6. I guess the mixing station wasn't the part you wanted to talk about? :joking::highfive::joking:
    lol. its fine. Having someone imply that I don't know how to mix saltwater though... that is kind of annoying.

    But anyways, yeah people, dont just add water to a huge pile of salt. You can however be more scientific about it and add a "crap load" of salt to a "butt load" of water (those are imperial measurements, not metric). You end up with salt around 1.30 or so and you can dilute it down from there.

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  7. Thank you!  That is indeed a wonderfully simple design that I will probably steal wholesale from you.  Offhand question, do the bulkhead pipes that enter the top of each reservoir reach the bottom?  
    not all the way but close. i wanted it deep enough to disturb any pile of salr.

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  8. I know where they came from lol.  Can you explain how they're built and how they function?
    its stupid easy. look at the picture.
    valves at each input side and output side.

    so i add RO to the left tank. then when i want to mix salt in the left tank i close the right input and output and leave the right valves open. therefore its just circulating the left side.

    add a crap load of salt more than the target amount. then open the right input valve to add more RO.

    when i have it where i want it i open the valve to the hose, take it over to the sump and add it in. the hose (3/4 food grade pvc) and barb fitting shut off valve for the hose can be purchased at the local hydroponic store.


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  9. yeah Sean, wanted to make it but my son had three soccer games today.

    The mixing station is honestly the coolest thing ever. i got those tanks from a business out in greshamphetamine. he is all over craigslist. they were $90 each i think.


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  10. #7 on your list says crawlspace? Now I am confused................
    it is a very confusing house. It is an awesome house, but a confusing design. The crawl space is only under approximately 10% of the main floor. It has a daylight basment to the north, but not to the west.

    I cant for the life of me figure out why they didnt make the basement have the same footprint as the first floor. What they saved on excavation they more than made up with additional footings.

    anyways.. crawlspace? yes. Crawl space between the panel and new circuit location? no.

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