NoDoze

Trimming GSP causes other soft corals to close up to 12 hours depending on how much I trim. I typically clean the overflow slots and areas where I don't want growth, removing 4"-6" sq sheets off at a time. I do this about 4 times a year, or more. I have charcoal running in the tank. I've read in the past they release toxins, which is why I be sure to have the charcoal. But there is a lot of mixed info out there, was curious what you guys thought, I would tend to believe more local info ;)

"Hydor smart wave with two circulation pumps $40" What gph are the pumps?

ARM Coarse Media anything else I get mush to dissolve for 3/4 of the time.

All fish have ich, it's just a matter of how much stress will bring it out. Water parameters, other fish, or a sudden change in environment can all be triggers. Garlic is also a good alternative. Slice a garlic clove thin and mix it with the food. Takes weeks to influence anything, so it's a good preventative measure, or if the fish looks like it just needs help to fight the ick.

"hey instead of wasting $30 or so at a movie why don't we go to the fish store and spend $30 and then just pick up Redbox?" Jaw dropping...she CAN'T be real!!! WOW...I'm speechless.

I always wondered how effective Prime was? I used to dose a little in my 5 gal jugs when getting water from the lfs. I wondered if dosing into an empty jug would keep it active before adding the water? In the DT, would dosing be better after adding the water, or before? Should dosing be to the DT, or the sump? Additionally, many years ago, fish would have an outbreak of ick after every Prime dose, which is why I stopped with that tank. Perhaps I'm just making things trivial, but I'm naturally a thinker, so I may be over thinking things...?

What is this? A game of guess the issue? Just tell us...

How is he eatting? The fin deterioration could be food or stress. May be a combination of things :(

Perhaps not enough hiding space, or deep enough sand bed? Were the gobbies acting normal and/or looked relaxed? Typically, they're always looking for food, not at other fish in fear.

Wow! 100% TOTALLY envious! I can't image the conversation with the wifie to get this permitted. My wifie would give me that rediculous look, take her closest space away for the tank!?! NEVER! LOL

I would be all over this if you were closer to north bend :(

Didn't like the edge? I was thinking of changing to the edge.

Yea, I would get the anemone to move, don't try to move the coral. Either move the rock, turn off the lights for an extended time, point flow at it, or create some turbulence with your hand and wait 30 min, it should move. I asked what type of anemone, because each type responds differently. When anemones move over coral, as long as the tentacles don't sting the coral, or the coral doesn't sting the anemone, it should continue moving and all should be well.

What kind of anemone? The anemone is more likely to move, why not try to move it instead?

When I added a CBB our powder blue went bizzerk! CBB took damage on all fins. I used a 6" sq mirror. I first tried taping the mirror to the front and side of the tank, but the PB would only posture if he randomly saw himself. So then I followed the PB around the tank, holding the mirror right infront/over him. He would posture and attack it constantly, end to end of the tank, did this for 5+ min. Then taped it at the end of the tank. PB never left all afternoon, posturing and attacking even from the other end of the tank. The CBB probably thought he was nuts! Never bothered him again.... By evening, the PB looked exhausted, and my six line and flame angel took their turns posturing themselves, for hours. When the lights went out, I took the mirror off. Never had an issue anymore. Now they all eat like pigs

89°!?! Where you located? I'll bring the beer! Someone's cookin fish tonight! LOL Anything over 80° fish metabolism goes up! They should appear 'high strung' and more hungry. Stressful to say the least. Get a chiller. I unplug the heater in the summer, and just rely on a fan pointed at the ATS to keep things cool.

A cylinder tank!?! Point them all in the same direction and make a whirlpool affect "Just keep swimming, just keep swimming"...said the tang

It's a matter of preference, which ever works best for you vs price But small quantities first to try out/test. You're new to reefing and have never mixed salt water?

That would mean there is a trace of chemicals in the water....not good.

Looks unusually cloudy....? Anything expired?

I went to a ATS on my 120 about 4 months ago and it is doing great! PH and nits have all held to 0. Algae growth in the tank has stopped progressing and I'm worried the snails are now starving :( Otherwise everyone looks really happy. Till now I am still harvesting green to dark green algae, not the bright light green it's supposed to progress too. Dunno why, but I think it takes time, or I don't feed enough. Has really simplified by maintenance routine though

I haven't updated it in a really long time, since we started having kids, but this was the website I created for my tanks: http://www.oneilreef.com/

So, are there no reefing groups/forums for the Seattle area!?! I have no issue starting one if there were enough people interested. Professionally I'm a programmer/web developer/network admin, so I have resources is an understatement. LOL Understandably, I can't moderate it all myself

A pump to feed the reactor. A pump to circulate the reactor. And a needle valve to control the outflow. The pump to feed the reactor, just runs 24/7, it doesn't need to be controlled. I just have an air line tube run off of the chiller pump to feed the reactor. The needle valve/effluent rate determines how much flow goes in and out. A ph probe on the effluent determines if flow needs to increase or decrease. What difficulty ate you having?

It could be the low salt causing the stress. If he's eating well, try feeding him garlic. Slice an entire garlic clove into thin slices, and let it soak with the food.