xmas_one

I was just in the Petco in Albany, they had four left right when you walk in. 

5 minutes ago, Exodus said:

Everything I have ever found in the past that refers to Float glass manufactures states they reduce the amount of Iron in the formula giving it a more transparent look opposed to the Greenish tint.  Like the picture mentioned above. While "Ultra Clear" may not necessarily be of the same formula as "Starphire" or manufactured by the same company, they are both transparent without a green tint which is evidence of a lower amount of Iron used.

All that green glass you see in tanks and house windows IS float glass. Low iron glasses are made using the float process, and this is a tiny fraction of the industry. 

1 hour ago, Exodus said:

UltraClear is simply a branded "Float" Glass,  Low Iron is the Same as "Float" Glass. Therefore UltraClear, Low Iron, Starfire all being "Float" Glasses are essentially the same, just depends on how they market it.

This is not true. Float glass has to do with the process, not the content of the material. 

If anyone is interested in this zoa, shoot me a PM. I’d be happy to frag it out.

70

65

50

^^^ +1 for toothless 

https://www.glass-holes.com/Overflow-Kits_c3.htm

Someone on here must have one, post in WTB. 

If you’re feeling courageous, you can get a drill for under $20 from Harbor Freight, and a whole set of glass  holesaws from Amazon also for under $20. Look on YouTube, there’s a ton of videos to walk you through it.

I’d be happy to help if you were closer. You should get the overflow box and return that you want first. Then measure the bulkheads that come with them and drill the appropriate holes. That’s the order you need to do this in.

Protip on drilling glass, drill starting from the inside if possible. This way if you “chip-out” on the end of the hole, it’s on the bulkhead nut surface instead of the gasket surface inside the tank. It’s also way easier to keep the cut submerged with water during the drilling.

Man, I think I would get another Radion and call it a day.

What size tank is this going over? 

FWIW, I’m running a 4x24 ATI with two nanobox 13ups, the leds still shimmer real nice. That’s like a ratio of 2 watts t5 to 1 watt led. I think a radion runs like 170w, so you would need more than like 14 24w t5s to drown out the shimmer. 

Cool stuff, have you thought of selling these on shapeways? I bought a printed viewfinder for one of my cameras from them. From my understanding the seller just uploads to shapeways and then they print it and ship it to the buyer. 

This was news to me that people are doing this.

Awesome dimensions on these, it’s like a short 120.

On 2/19/2018 at 8:31 PM, xmas_one said:

Film photography, I have an M3, IIIf, R2M, two Bessa Ls, an F100, Yashica MAT124G, and a Rollei 2.8F.

Shooting barebow recurve.

I also like messing with cars, I’m in the middle of SASing an 86 Toyota.

I’m in

I wish I could keep my nitrates at 10. Lex has the good info above.

stability promotes success 

Film photography, I have an M3, IIIf, R2M, two Bessa Ls, an F100, Yashica MAT124G, and a Rollei 2.8F.

Shooting barebow recurve.

I also like messing with cars, I’m in the middle of SASing an 86 Toyota.

I would suggest not carbon dosing.

Remove half of that chaeto weekly. 

Also API are probably the worst test kits you can use.