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milesmiles902

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Everything posted by milesmiles902

  1. milesmiles902
    Sounds good. So far, I have you and Dan_lu down for ~16 oz.
  2. milesmiles902
    Here are the rules: • One photo entry per person • Pic has to be taken by YOU • Must be in by the posted deadline • Must follow subject guidelines for the month Winners will be determined based on voting poll results after submission deadline. This months subject: Euphyllia!!! Show me some great shots of your front view. All of that hard work you put into your tanks!! I know there are a whole bunch of amazing tanks out there!! show them off! Deadline: I am going to try to be better on this one. May 31th @ 9 pm PST Voting will happen from the 1st till the 4rd of June.
  3. milesmiles902
    Got a lot of good entries. Let the voting begin! Will close May 4th at 11:59 pm.
  4. milesmiles902
    I can't believe how different your tank looks. That is a beauty. You did a great job!
  5. milesmiles902
    Looking healthy!
  6. milesmiles902
    Also, the acetic acid concentration is 10% of common acetic acid, so it's quite minimal.
  7. milesmiles902
    I recently made my own amino acid solution. It consists of only the top five amino acids that corals take from the water column and a buffer of acetic acid to prevent growth of microbes and increase shelf life. It's nothing fancy, but if anyone is willing to try some, I'd be happy to bring you a solution. I've been using it for two weeks with a dosage of 5mL per 100 gallons per day.
  8. milesmiles902
    I already fragged it. Don't worry. I cut a bigger frag. I kind of felt guilty giving you that small one.
  9. milesmiles902
    I don't have a name for it, but it tricolor rings bell. Bert would probably better be able to ID it. I'll make a frag of it tonight if you want it. You can bring anything you feel is worth the trade. No worries. Ok. I'll bring it. It's a tad small (the one on the front), but it is the same. I wouldn't expect anything in return because of the size, but a chunk of a small piece of the 3,4 or 5 would be cool. It's really your choice. I'm not picky. I'll even throw in my recent amino acid recipe for you to try. Been using it for ~two weeks now.
  10. milesmiles902
    Don't judge our queen. How could you?!
  11. milesmiles902
    *Bump.
  12. milesmiles902
    Any takers?
  13. milesmiles902
    You sure got some living rock. Practically, a golem at that point. Pretty cheap too. Did you have to pay for shipping?
  14. milesmiles902
    Nailed it.
  15. milesmiles902
    I am not sure if the cloudiness comes from the glass or the water, but just in case: Run carbon immediately and do a water change every other day. I imagine the cloudiness will go away very quick. Test ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH. Let us know what they are and we can give some guidance.
  16. milesmiles902
    Hey everyone, Recently, I have been using a GFCI adapter for my aquarium, but sometimes I notice that the it trips. Not all the time, but sometimes. I think it is just a random trip of them plug, which is bound to happen every once and a while. I think running a GFCI is a good idea, but how my plugs system works, it will either shut off my power-heads or my return pump. I wouldn't dare to keep them on the same plug because if the GFCI trips, they will both go out. This way, I can limit the reduction in flow when one of them trips. Here is my general plug system: 1. Lights, powerheads, heaters and doser 2. Return pump, sump light and skimmer What do you all do? How do you cover your power strips from a random drop of water or creep of salt?
  17. milesmiles902
    Alright. I got curious. As we all know, different forms of light, penetrate water better or worse. This is why we see at deeper depths more blue than red light. The trend still holds true for infrared, which is at the red end of the electromagnetic scale. Blue light penetrates better than red light and far better than infrared light. As one can see the longer the wavelength (blue < red < infrared) there is more absorption. The right hand side, shows the relative penetration depth in the infrared region at the specific wavelength. Although, we have to remember this is on a log scale. The amount of light absorbed increases by a factor of 10 for depth every unit displayed. So, now it depends on the strength of the infrared laser in the gun. I couldn't seem to find it on the amazon page, but I bet it is weak. We would probably only penetrate 1-2 mm in depth. Long story, because the thickness of glass, point it at the surface of water and not the side of the tank.
  18. milesmiles902
    It's temperature gun. Just point and shoot. The penetration depth depends on the density of the water, but I bet it approaches 1 inch. Surface water is best, but the side of the tank also work.
  19. milesmiles902
    Yeah. You have to calibrate them against a thermometer. Just like our refractometers against a known 1.026 solution. That one isn't the exact same as the one I bought, but it is quite similar. I paid ~14 bucks for mine and it works accurately up to 3 ft. After that distance, you usually just get the room temp.
  20. milesmiles902
    All about these infrared probes. $9.84 on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Temperature-Non-contact-Thermometer-Adjustable/dp/B00JCFPODM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_79_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CNYA9P0XW3T0FG2G3NRY
  21. milesmiles902
    Calcium and alkalinity should only be dosed if they are needed. Most of the time, we experience fluctuations of calcium and alkalinity between water changes because...well..corals need them. Softys consume less of them, and likely will need little to no dosing. Water changes should be fine. If you are curious, I would begin by measuring your calcium and alkalinity and see if they are in an acceptable range. These are still just rough numbers, but give you a good idea where you should be. If you are drastically below the range of your chemical or ion, I would begin dosing. All brands work, just be consistent with what and when you dose. It's also a good idea to test more often than not.
  22. milesmiles902
    Whoo!! Nice to see the resurrection of another aquariast, like a phoenix being reborn. We never stop.
  23. milesmiles902
    Oh, gosh. I misspoke. You're right. Glyphosate is mixed with a surfactant in Round-up. I just swore I remember that it, itself, was a surfactant. My mistake. Although, after looking deeper, where the surfactant is applied on the plant (I.e. root, leaves, stem) plays a larger factor in the survival of the plant than the surfactant itself. While there are surfactants that when applied to any part of the plant will kill it. I guess there are more factors in the home made weed killer than I thought.
  24. milesmiles902
    I was also thinking after reading, it might just be the soap. Soap is a darn good surfactant and that's what can easily kill a lot of plants. That's all Round-Up Weed Killer is.
  25. milesmiles902
    I'm still unsure because I have never seen either. Although, it does look like it has some sort of appendages/legs, which makes me lean towards eunicid, but again, I've never seen either one. Peanut Worm: Eunicid Worm:
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