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ChrisQ

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Everything posted by ChrisQ

  1. I hope you're kidding Jeff!
  2. ChrisQ

    53.4lbs of Pukani

    53.4lbs of Pukani That's the weight including the tote. $150.00
  3. ChrisQ

    53.4lbs of Pukani

    Bump
  4. ChrisQ

    53.4lbs of Pukani

    Bump
  5. ChrisQ

    who knows telescope

    http://garyseronik.com/a-beginners-guide-to-collimation/
  6. ChrisQ

    Wtb: sps frag pack

    Maybe also give Mattv a shout, i'm sure he has something cookin on his racks he might be willing to part with. If i remember correctly i believe pantherguy30 and Mattv run it together so you might want to give him a shout as well. https://www.facebook.com/Stumptowncorals/
  7. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    Did the test the way it was originally asked for me to do. Told you guys i have no idea what i'm doing Spent all day ripping my alarm out and reversing everything they did. I very much enjoyed ripping that relay out of there that can cut my ignition resulting in my no spark problem, next would be tackling the worst part, finding and repairing the 4 broken lines from the distributor harness. I also tested resistance in my VAF/VAFM Distributor high-tension cable resistance = 5.38 25k ohm max
  8. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    I have about 16 new grey hairs now, after spending well more then 60+ hours straight with an occasional cat nap here and there. Truck is a 94 Toyota 4x4 3.0 V6 3VZE (No spark) I'm about to give up and push it over a VERY large hill. I seem to have a short and/or a grounding problem. What kind? I have no clue. I came into this completely ignorant to working on cars and now know more about Toyota's then i ever wanted to. Problem arose where it kept blowing the E.F.I fuse upon cranking it. It didn't get driven much at all for long periods. It also had a parasitic draw that i don't know if i sorted or not but it seems like i have. Have made some major progress and got it to stop blowing the efi. Major problem is the things that need testing, coil, ignition and don't fully understand the tools used, multimeter, test light etc. I have pretty much used up google/youtube keywords and read and watched everything. If anyone of you car guy's in my area have something like one of these and can tell me where my shorts/problems are i'd happily pay you. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PL2WZP/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_MoQjBbC0095G7
  9. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    G1 - G- = 160.8 G2 - G- = 161.2 NE - G- = 202.0
  10. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    Edit: no, not at first but i did try those too and got the same result. Didn't pay enough attention to making sure i was on the right ones though. Yes, directly from the terminals on the harness that i also ran that audible trace on. All four ended abruptly in the same area like they should have if that was the end of the wire.
  11. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    I'm just letting some of this sink in, yeah that part goes from $129-$229. Got that bad news yesterday talking with autozone. Wouldn't a broken wire not give the same result? With the distributor being just fine? Thanks again
  12. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    I drew a diagram of the pic i posted before i went out there so i made sure i was testing the right ones and to record the readings.
  13. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    I'm sorry for my automotive ignorance but i don't even know where or what the pickup coils even look like and could not find pics. If there might be something wrong there too.
  14. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    I didn't think it needed to be cranking, good thing, cause i'm alone. Trust me nobody can be worse at trying to read a schematic than me. I spent hrs last night downloading high resolution schematics of all the electrical of my truck and almost melted my brain trying to make sense of some of them, but anyway, I don't understand "infinite response on none" basically, if i hold the pins together i get 00.6 consistently, when test was performed it reads just as it sits pins not touching anything and that reading is 1 followed by a long space and a dot. I used a speaker to test the multimeter with a known ohm and it was only off by 00.1
  15. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    No response at all. On any of them. Does it need to be cranking over? Edit: Yeah, i just just used a speaker and it's pretty spot on. but thanks for those tips.
  16. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    Hi Sean, No, not at the time but plan to the first time i mess with the truck again, from my understanding if they are not within range there's not further point going forward until that faulty part is replaced. Now i'm very curious myself and are about to get dirty. Should i even begin to trust my $5.99 multimeter for that or do you think it would suffice?
  17. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    Okay, quick breakdown and reasoning of nearly hurling wrenches across my yard. So, we already know i'm not getting any power to the distributor. I decided to finally go and test my ignition coil, i pulled the little power harness from the coil and read 12v with my multimeter. That's good news! Grounded test light and cranked it and got nothing, rushed out to the Aloha Autozone and bought a new ignition coil super excited, things are looking good. Get home and install it and STILL nothing to the distributor. So i decided to switch gears and mini-splice into each NE,G1,G2 and G with a alligator clip and start my trace. Using this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PL2WZP/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_MoQjBbC0095G7 Traced all 4 to nearly the same spot (within 2'') at the end of the harness at E4 Sadly, sadly isn't really the word for it but as we can see here where each of them need to end up. The ECM now needs to come out and i need to at least test each of those wires for continuity at the ECM harness before i start ripping up my harness trusting a cheap tool. Cheap but it works. Quite discouraging, i can build you a racing ATV/Motocross bike but can't fix my own truck! The irony. Thank you guys so much for your help so far guys, you've all been amazing as always! I'll make it up to guys one day for sure. Maybe instead of getting all greasy i can trade my multimeter in for my zoa fraggin kit today.
  18. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    Thanks bud! I think this thread is the only one i have not "fully" read yet but i have read most of it Thanks also for the tip, was the first thing i did!
  19. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    0.00v on the distributor connector. And the Crankshaft position sensor is a part of the rotor itself and is not replaceable on it's own so it better not be that cause that's $200+
  20. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    That makes perfect sense, only the rotor and cap were replaced. Trying to source one now if the test turns out bad. Still figuring out what to probe, never done it before. Thanks!
  21. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    Where exactly is this? I'm really automotive illiterate. but im good with google !
  22. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    Funny story, yes i have found the "brains, i think" with splicing. The funny thing is there is/was a line running from the batt. with an inline fuse and when i used the test light on it, it lit for a sec and blew the cig fuse, so i went and replaced the fuse and tried to replicate it and could not get it to light. Right when i was about give up instead of hearing a fuse pop i heard what i considered an arc in the dash somewhere loud enough i could hear it through the firewall, but the cig fuse remained intact. This is how it was, yes i know, clean your engine!!!!!! And as we speak.... Leading into the drivers kick What i have found of the alarm so far. Where i blew the cig fuse.
  23. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    I have no idea if the distributors getting power but out of desperation I've even held the plug in my hand not caring. Kind of an inside joke from when i was a kid and the childhood friend that was helping me at the time kicked over my KX80 super hard when i had the plug in my hand. (Yeah, he got a kick out of that and so did i lets say) I have checked all fuses and replaced relays, fixed all my ground resistance problems, adding in new grounds that were missing or not good enough and have been checking continuity first thing for even perfectly good looking fuses. I have that tool that i linked above and it has a continuity setting which might be better than my $5.99 multimeter I also ran some mock up test last night to figure out and test the trace function of that unit and it worked well, or good enough. So far this has been the only definitive short I've found so far. Traced it back the antenna connector of a unused CB. These are what really concern me and my buddy suggested that i not start cutting the alarm out with a risk of cutting something unrelated with my inexperience. We def. agreed but i want that alarm out thinking it's contributing to the problem. What fuse and where is this fuse for the distributor? Are you referring to the IGN. fuse driver side kick? I'm a one man army so it's hard for me to test for spark and cranking tests with meters and have been trying to avoid setting up a push button remote ignition off my starter pole, truck has a 4'' suspension lift which makes somethings easier but it would still be a pain in the butt. Thanks for the reply Taylor! Along with anyone else for that matter.
  24. ChrisQ

    Automotive Gurus

    I also disconnected the negative and with my test light i clipped into the neg. terminal and stuck the painful needle of death (stabbed myself so many times now) into the neg. post and it lit up signaling i have a short somewhere. So i started pulling fuses until the light went out and when i got to the dome fuse the light went out. Next was the dreaded efi, pulled it and the light stayed on. It was very much a relief but now i had a unexpected dome/open door buzzer problem and may also be why the efi does not blow anymore Can't really remember how/why the light came back on again before i pulled the efi fuse. The check engine light has not been coming on during initial key turn either.
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