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Blue Z Reef

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Blue Z Reef last won the day on January 25

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About Blue Z Reef

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  • Birthday 08/31/1985


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    Vancouver, WA

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  1. I’ve redone several black boxes. I would be willing to bet the one with the whole blue channel probably has 1 or two bad diodes (totally out) and the driver is likely fine. You’ll need a multimeter to find which one is bad. The one I use (Fluke...forgetting model), will actually illuminate the LEDs individually so you can check if the diode is still good. Only hard part about replicating a layout is gathering all the different wavelength diodes you want. Is this already a full spectrum black box? You may just want to start swapping a few out here and there and play with it till you like it. Also, my advise on ordering 3w leds from China (off eBay or elsewhere) is to get more then you need. Every batch has a dud usually, some may not last as long due to QC, etc. also, I’ve bought some and the seller is gone and even though many will say they have the same wavelength, they won’t be exact so always good to have extras (from the same batch). Good luck and if you get stuck and want a hand, you can bring them by and I’ll take a look.
  2. I’ve seen people use this stuff to diffuse light fixtures before: https://www.homedepot.com/p/OPTIX-Acrylic-Micro-Prism-Glaze-2-ft-x-4-ft-Lay-in-Ceiling-Light-Panel-1A90001A/207054944 also, I wonder if you took the Prime apart if the lenses could be removed (appears to be all once piece).
  3. The little frozen cube domes are from thingiverse. I had 4 of them printed but still experimenting with magnets as the ones I bought want to slip down. CrabbyCrabs if you want one I have an extra but you’ll need to source a magnet.
  4. Is your bypass just a T off with valve? If so, just put it after your membrane and before the DI section you are rerouting to.
  5. hard to say from the pic, how old is the system? Is your only filtration a cartridge filter? At a minimum I’d hit it with a water change and do some testing. Can’t help much without knowing if something is off.
  6. I would get this membrane, pretty much known as the best: https://www.aquacave.com/spectrapure-spectraselect-plus-99-percent-rejection-90-gpd-ro-membrane-mem-sp-0090.html You could just do this kit also: https://www.aquacave.com/replacement-cartridge-set-for-spectrapure-maxpure-ro-di-systems.html what you would do is use 2 of the vertical chambers for pre filters, remove your old DI, and reroute your piping through the final filter housing to become your new DI chamber. You’d essentially be turning your 4 stage into a 3 stage. Honestly, with 24 TDS you’ll be just fine doing this. you could do a kit from BrS as well but I’d stick with the spectrapure membrane at a minimum. Shop around, might be cheaper elsewhere, just using that for reference.
  7. 5 years...yikes lol! so carbon blocks should be replaced every 6-9 months. Your DI section doesn’t appear to be one that opens and is replaceable, so you’ll likely have to replace with an inline sealed one like you have or buy a DI add on chamber (similar to the 3 vertical filters) that has a refillable cartridge. I would check on Bulk Reef Supply, they do “kits” that come with 3 filters and also sell DI add on kits too. Sounds like you’ve been kinda skating by with low tap TDS for all these years but really should swap it all out. I would assume your membrane is doing all the work at this point aside from some sediment filtration the pre filters are doing. also, if you want a good membrane, look at a spectrapure 99% rejection rate membrane (I believe they are 90gpd usually). Most reefers swap membranes every 1-2 years but some use them longer.
  8. Yikes, they sending new parts or refund? If it was just the pinwheel it wouldn’t have been as big a deal...sheesh! Little more bubble wrap next time lol
  9. Holy crap dude, how bad was the RLSS messed up? They refund you? I feel bad for the recommendation, mine just came in it’s OEM box and was fine in shipping. Glad you got the BubbleMag going though!
  10. That looks incredibly easy to make, I bet you could DIY it with plastic from TAP. They can even cut to size if you need.
  11. Looking good! How do you like the new 350 gyres? I’m debating flow for my new tank and they are in the running 😁
  12. Nice start! Any plans for lighting, stocking, etc? I’m in the same boat for my next build...hoarding and building/modding stuff. Takes longer than you think when you bring a tank home 🤣
  13. PMd you about the SCA301. The CG160 skimmer has been great so far for my friend. It barely fit in his sump, these are pretty big overall, just under 8” wide to fit in his sump. This is an older pic while still breaking in but has been skimming great! Ive got the CG200 sitting in my garage, it’s a beast too! Haven’t fired it up yet though, other projects afoot LOL
  14. A lot of areas in Portland (amazingly) have really good TDS ratings. What you should remember about TDS is it is simply a reading of the presence of something in the water in PPM, but doesn’t indicate if it’s good or bad. It’s always smart to start with the best and leave out the variables with water. At 24 TDS his membrane and filters likely will last longer. Resin exhausts based on membrane output TDS. Membranes are usually 96-98% rejection. Though that may seem like a small difference, if one outputs 2 TDS from your membrane and the other 4, your resin will theoretically last twice as long with the higher rejection membrane. Since I moved from Vancouver to Camas, my TDS went from 110 to about 50. I’ve noticed a huge reduction in resin use even though my membrane output TDS was only about 3-4 in Vancouver and reads 0 here in Camas (obviously there is TDS but the in-line meter isn’t accurate enough to detect currently).
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