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Burningbaal last won the day on March 7

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About Burningbaal

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  • Birthday 10/20/1985


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    Bothell, WA

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    Near Seattle, WA

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  1. Nitrate is super hard in a saltwater matrix; the chloride interferes significantly. Not surprising they didn't do it before (from a chemistry perspective), and I'm very skeptical that's going to be able to do any better from an accuracy/precision perspective than nyos or red sea. I think mostly, the checkers give a false sense of comfort because they are digital, tough they're obviously important when you have trouble distinguishing shades of color (especially if you are color blind) Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  2. That's the issue, a single drain will be very hard to maintain with a valve. If a single drain, you'll need to set it up as a durso with the valve 100% open. If you get their pf-1000 or larger (two drains), then you can run it as a herbie drain and it'll be all set for the long run. Adjust the set up to have the drain valve 100% open and you can change the pipe inside the overflow to be a durso drain to mitigate the noise. That's the best you can do with only one drain Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  3. 1. Minimum 3x system volume per hour. If you've got 50 gallons of water, minimum is 150gph of actual water movement (not pump rating). Most target somewhere between 5-10x maybe 15x 2. Temp probe before heater will tend to make the water in the display slightly hotter than the probe says, the slightly colder if heater is before probe. Just know this and set accordingly. If your probe is before your heater, probably set a little more like 78 than 80. 3. I would not be collecting the skimmate if you're that low on nutrients or you may end up headed for a dinoflagellate problem. Indeed you need the extra gas exchange (unlikely), I'd turn off the skimmer until you have detectable nutrients 4. You going remove some rock, but I'd be slow about it. Maybe 10% every other week done be very safe as long as you keep enough for the tank 5. If you have rebalance flow every cycle of the pump, something is wrong ...what's the drain setup? Herbie? Beananimal? Dual durso? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  4. Can you have a nice tank with IO? Of course Is there a lot of marketing that makes differences between salts sound more interesting than it really is? Of course Are there certain choices with decisive advantages above IO? Yup Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  5. 87 doesn't seem crazy for the pro mix @200g, I think that's what it was at BRS six months so, or nearly so. I'd love to find a dealer nearby, though! I was looking for the TM floating hydrometer a while back and couldn't find it anywhere. Eventually BRS started carrying it, but I was surprised no one around had it Edit: I'm in North Seattle and don't even know of options up here Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  6. I'm with everything @SuncrestReef said. But if I was getting a 1k tank, I wouldn't be getting a coral insert, I'd be getting rock and AT LEAST doing an easy-coral tank (toadstool, leathers, mushrooms, etc). and I'd be buying from customaquariums, or planet aquariums, or glasscages.com, or...really, I'd be calling probably 5 tank builders for discussion and quotes. Also, if you're really going with 1000g as your first tank, I'd plan to have a pro do all the maintenance for at least a year and choose someone who'll teach you so you can take over
  7. wow, that is enormous! It's do-able, but not common. Common advice is to expect to spend $40-50 per gallon for a new well-appointed setup. I might actually expect a little higher for this level of tank because some of the parts break across to the commercial side. You probably want at least a 200g sump and 50-100g topoff reservoir, redundancy like crazy, monitoring all over, including power consumption monitoring (a good way to ensure pumps are still working, for example, is the watts they're pulling). 1000 gallons, I'd probably plan on extremely long or cube-ish enough that you can actually get in the thing. I'd think maybe 13-16ft long, 4ft wide, and 2-2.5ft tall so you can mostly reach everything (assuming you have complete access front and back). or I might do something like 5-6ft long, 4ft deep and 5-6 ft tall and plan to get in the thing at least every other week for maintenance. Honestly, if I was doing more than 800g, I'd probably try for 1500-2000 and just plan on snorkeling for maintenance. In any case, I'd try to plan on a 200g sump with 100g topoff in a separate 100sq ft room dedicated to supporting the tank, preferably more like 200sq ft room. What inhabitants do you want? predators? corals? sponges? clownfish? tangs? the inhabitants you're attracted to probably dictate more than anything else. Oh, and I'm up near Bothell, not too far from Tacoma. From my experience, Barrier Reef (Renton) and Saltwater City (Bellevue) would both be excellent LFS for you, I also like Denny's in Kirkland, but that's getting kinda far for you. not sure what else is down your way, but I think I've heard good things about Sierra's.
  8. reasonable. Note my math was off by a factor of two (I was using 8 cups per gallon...I hate the imperial system!) my corrected math says if you're doing 20% daily changes, and evaporating 2 cups per day, you'll need 1.0234 as your new water to stay stable. of course, if for a week you're losing 4 cups/day, you'll want your new water around 1.0205. Using a constant 1.0234 as your new water, with 20% daily changes: 1 cup daily evap: 1.0247 is equalibrium 4 cup daily evap: 1.0294 is equalibrium if you use 1.022 as your new water instead, 1 cup daily evap: 1.0231 is eq 4 cup daily evap: 10.275 is eq
  9. ok, one thing to maybe consider here...5 g is so small, you could probably cheat the system here... Say it's really 5g of water, and you can run a dosing pump or other slow and reliable pump from a relatively large vessel of saltwater. We want our reef at 1.026, but anything from 1.023 to 1.028 is probably fine, right? So fill up that reef with 1.026, fill the vessel with 1.024, and once the cycle is done, start doing slow but large water changes daily, just push water in and let the excess fall out to your p trap. yes, evaporation will happen, and yes, the salinity in the tank will average higher than the 1.024 you're putting in. Yes, the salinity in the tank won't be perfectly consistent as evaporation rates change, but that should be a pretty slow event. evaporation should mostly be happening when the house is warm, so you could focus the water changes during the hours your heater is mostly likely to run (and the room is warmest). If you change a gallon a day, of maybe 5g a week, but do it as maybe a half or whole pint per hour for 8-16 hours in the day, water temp should be trivial. It will reach an equilibrium, and with this 20% daily change, I bet it's no big deal. Say one day's evaporation would raise salinity from 1.026 to 1.030 Quick math says if you lose 2 cups a day to evaporation (Seems high to me), and have your new water at 1.024 with 20% daily changes, your tank will trend to 1.0267. If in that same setup, your evaporation is only 4 oz/day, you'd trend toward 1.0246, which is a tad low, but probably okay for most things. If I'm vaguely right that evap will stay between a half cup and two cups per day, then you might be just fine, at least if you keep less sensitive species
  10. Oof, this is tough. It's going to depend on your evaporation rate, that's the big problem. I'd say if you want to do this without having to watch salinity super carefully, it has to be more complex. 1. Have a water level sensor at the level you want to keep it. 2. Have a pump that can be turned on for 'x' seconds that removes water to the drain, or do this with a solenoid so it regulates that drilled egress. 3. Have a pump that can add RODI 4. Have a pump that can add new saltwater. Every day, turn on the RO pump until the water level sensor is wet (replacing evap) Then open the solenoid/turn on waste pump for "x" seconds to drain the amount you want (you could set this right a second water level sensor down lower, but time should be a reasonable system). Say 10 seconds drains a pint (hypothetical goal). Then open the saltwater pump until the water level sensor is wet again Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  11. that'd be perfect! no one to get out, even with an infinity bowl! It'd be amazing, IMO
  12. What are you going to put in there? I think this right be really cool as an infinity bowl if you don't have to worry about fish jumping, out this in a dish so the overflow is just over the rim of the vase Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  13. it's not super pretty, but my answer was some 95% window tint. it was wide enough I folded it in half and wrapped it around my light (black box in my case). You can hold it in place (at most kludge-y) by putting a piece of masking tape 2-3" from each corner so it kind of spans the corner as a sort of 'chamfer' corner. The window tint is light enough these little pieces of tape hold the tint up (because the tape is above the light). so the tint hangs down below the light several inches
  14. quick note for glue: as long as it's cyanoacrylate without weird additives, it's fine (that means most 'superglue' is fine). But if it's not a gel variety, it will be a giant pain to use; you'll have more on your hands than the coral/plug
  15. A couple is probably fine, but if you're just putting in a couple flakes, they may just starve to death. The lights are off, right? so no herbivores, you could potentially get one or two detrivores, but they may just starve...you're trying to feed bacteria, not animals.
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