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Burningbaal last won the day on March 7

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About Burningbaal

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  • Birthday 10/20/1985


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    Bothell, WA

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    Near Seattle, WA

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  1. reasonable. Note my math was off by a factor of two (I was using 8 cups per gallon...I hate the imperial system!) my corrected math says if you're doing 20% daily changes, and evaporating 2 cups per day, you'll need 1.0234 as your new water to stay stable. of course, if for a week you're losing 4 cups/day, you'll want your new water around 1.0205. Using a constant 1.0234 as your new water, with 20% daily changes: 1 cup daily evap: 1.0247 is equalibrium 4 cup daily evap: 1.0294 is equalibrium if you use 1.022 as your new water instead, 1 cup daily evap: 1.0231 is eq 4 cup daily evap: 10.275 is eq
  2. ok, one thing to maybe consider here...5 g is so small, you could probably cheat the system here... Say it's really 5g of water, and you can run a dosing pump or other slow and reliable pump from a relatively large vessel of saltwater. We want our reef at 1.026, but anything from 1.023 to 1.028 is probably fine, right? So fill up that reef with 1.026, fill the vessel with 1.024, and once the cycle is done, start doing slow but large water changes daily, just push water in and let the excess fall out to your p trap. yes, evaporation will happen, and yes, the salinity in the tank will average higher than the 1.024 you're putting in. Yes, the salinity in the tank won't be perfectly consistent as evaporation rates change, but that should be a pretty slow event. evaporation should mostly be happening when the house is warm, so you could focus the water changes during the hours your heater is mostly likely to run (and the room is warmest). If you change a gallon a day, of maybe 5g a week, but do it as maybe a half or whole pint per hour for 8-16 hours in the day, water temp should be trivial. It will reach an equilibrium, and with this 20% daily change, I bet it's no big deal. Say one day's evaporation would raise salinity from 1.026 to 1.030 Quick math says if you lose 2 cups a day to evaporation (Seems high to me), and have your new water at 1.024 with 20% daily changes, your tank will trend to 1.0267. If in that same setup, your evaporation is only 4 oz/day, you'd trend toward 1.0246, which is a tad low, but probably okay for most things. If I'm vaguely right that evap will stay between a half cup and two cups per day, then you might be just fine, at least if you keep less sensitive species
  3. Oof, this is tough. It's going to depend on your evaporation rate, that's the big problem. I'd say if you want to do this without having to watch salinity super carefully, it has to be more complex. 1. Have a water level sensor at the level you want to keep it. 2. Have a pump that can be turned on for 'x' seconds that removes water to the drain, or do this with a solenoid so it regulates that drilled egress. 3. Have a pump that can add RODI 4. Have a pump that can add new saltwater. Every day, turn on the RO pump until the water level sensor is wet (replacing evap) Then open the solenoid/turn on waste pump for "x" seconds to drain the amount you want (you could set this right a second water level sensor down lower, but time should be a reasonable system). Say 10 seconds drains a pint (hypothetical goal). Then open the saltwater pump until the water level sensor is wet again Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  4. that'd be perfect! no one to get out, even with an infinity bowl! It'd be amazing, IMO
  5. What are you going to put in there? I think this right be really cool as an infinity bowl if you don't have to worry about fish jumping, out this in a dish so the overflow is just over the rim of the vase Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  6. it's not super pretty, but my answer was some 95% window tint. it was wide enough I folded it in half and wrapped it around my light (black box in my case). You can hold it in place (at most kludge-y) by putting a piece of masking tape 2-3" from each corner so it kind of spans the corner as a sort of 'chamfer' corner. The window tint is light enough these little pieces of tape hold the tint up (because the tape is above the light). so the tint hangs down below the light several inches
  7. quick note for glue: as long as it's cyanoacrylate without weird additives, it's fine (that means most 'superglue' is fine). But if it's not a gel variety, it will be a giant pain to use; you'll have more on your hands than the coral/plug
  8. A couple is probably fine, but if you're just putting in a couple flakes, they may just starve to death. The lights are off, right? so no herbivores, you could potentially get one or two detrivores, but they may just starve...you're trying to feed bacteria, not animals.
  9. I'd just drop in a few pellets or flakes twice a week, nbd. Literally a few. Like 4.
  10. Nullify is probably too strong a word, but in a system this new, I think you want all the bacteria you can get. If you can stand to be patient, I'd recommend you just wait Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  11. I'd say the shrimp did it's job, use some pellets or flakes to ghost feed from here. Or replace the shrimp weekly, maybe a 1/4 shrimp each week (can freeze the prawn in quarters) Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  12. it'll run it's course. Convenient you have no fish; no worries about oxygen deprivation. You'll probably spend a quarter of your time in the next year with a bloom like this if I've done a decent job of tracking how people do with BB and dry rock. I'd strongly recommend a persistent regimen of dosing bacteria all through the first year. Dr Tim's was a great place to start, but I'd buy just about everything you can find. Brightwell's MB7, MB CLEAN, Dr Tim's Refresh, Dr Tim's Waste-away, ReefBrite's Live Rock Enhance, Seachem's Pristine, Prodibio, anything, everything. During the fishless period (when the bloom can't hurt anything), I'd keep dosing one of them every day, mixing it up to different stuff so it gets a variety. Once there are fish in there, I'd mostly do the same, but when a bloom happens, drop in an airstone and stop dosing bacteria until it's cleared up. I'd make sure to ghost feed something once or twice a week; you're trying to get that biofilm as rich as possible. You might stick a Brightwell XPORT-BIO block in the sump to try to make up for the sand's surface area. Oh, and if API shows less than 0.25 ammonia, it's probably zero. You can pick up a seachem ammoalert badget, they last a year and more sensitive than the test kit.
  13. $10!? Man, what a rip-off Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  14. Not sure when it hits/schedule, but it still does happen. Up to the 40b, I believe Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  15. Where is local? People in this group someone's live 8 or more gotta from each other. Seattle? Bend? Newport? Up here (Seattle), clear Fabrications seems to be the go to guy, but there's choices all over Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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