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Burningbaal last won the day on May 31 2012

Burningbaal had the most liked content!

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About Burningbaal

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  • Birthday 10/20/1985


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    Bothell, WA

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    Near Seattle, WA

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  1. Regularly cal'd with rodi. But my Mg and Ca were way high, noticed I was adding more salt per gallon than seemed right. So I bought the cal solution. Now when I look with ro water it reads about 1.009 Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  2. I had a suspicion my refractometer might be off. Can and Mg are reading off the charts, stores are reading as really low salinity. When Petco checked my salinity, it was with a swing arm. I always call with rodi like it says to, but I decided to buy some 35ppt solution. Should read 1.0264 Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  3. well...welcome to snohomish county (I'm near Bothell)! I ended up giving away my 90g when I moved from Corvallis in 2012. It was supposed to be on a payment plan, but the person never paid me, so I got shafted. If I had been coming to my own house where I could have set it up, I probably would have just taken all my livestock to a LFS (probably TPA in Salem) and moved my rock in a brute can with everything else dry. Good time for a reset. But I was moving to a 1bed apartment while we figured out what we wanted to do long-term, so I ended up giving it all away free (on accident)...very sad. You can, in theory, bag everything, or put it in smaller vessels for transport, but you need to get them back in a big tank with rock and flow pretty fast afterwards or you're risking ammonia problems. You could try putting them in a rubbermaid with rock and water, but I think it's a recipe for disaster in the back of a box truck on the freeway. You could bag them, put the rock in a big semi-sealed barrel, and the first thing in the new place is to dump them out of bags into the rock/water. the params should be equal except any built-up waste in the bags, so you're probably pretty safe to dump them in without acclimation, but how quickly can you go from bagging livestock to driving 3-5 hours (Traffic) and then getting them out of the bags...Hence why I think I'd just bail on the livestock. I say you ditch the livestock, move all the rock and water to brute cans, dry out all the gear (I'd rinse the sand out thoroughly with a garden hose), and move it. When you get to the new place, stick a major pump in the brute cans to keep the water oxygenated. Once you're settled enough, set up the gear again, move the rock, put the sand in, maybe add a bag of arag-alive or similar, and fill up with clean water. minimal cycle since the rock has been going solid and you can start back in with livestock. that's my $0.02
  4. so I'm learning, but it was about a 12pt salinity difference. I think I'm going to be stuck doing a QT in the future just so I can safely bring salinity up over the course of a few days.
  5. Nevermind... They're toast Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  6. Help! I heard my wrasse might be hiding because he is alone in the tank, so I got three pajama cards today (Petco this time, but it's one of the nicer ones). I dripped for about an hour and a half (came with low salinity), then used safety stop for the first time. Just moved them from the blue to the tank and they're all dying! They looked fine in the blue! Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  7. Well, the LFS didn't have any chromis, and I couldn't try my first tank with a pair of clowns (all were paired). So I came home with this guy. While acclimating, I glued some window screen to the egg create and found this guy sleeping this morning. Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  8. I'll talk to my wife, I might be able to come down tomorrow with a little luck, but I haven't heard back. Tom: did you get my text last night?
  9. do you live up here in WA? I'm in Bothell. I'm not sure I can set it up right away, so I might need a temporary answer for the livestock (my 29g isn't a good place for all of those), but I'm literally in the middle of planning a 180g build. This could be an enormous blessing. Texting you now
  10. Looking at reefcleaners, what I've got kinda looks like the calothrix except there's no trapped air bubbles, but maybe because it's all so little. In any case, I figure I'll pick up a handful of snails and crabs along with my first swimmer and just chalk it up to normal new tank stuff. Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  11. Ok, I got 4 new test kits for the fundamentals and tested the tank. Also, I got some kind of algae started...I've never been good at distinguishing dino/diatoms/etc...doesn't really look like GHA, though. Figure it's a part of the new cycle, but I'm curious if anyone knows. Also, I got my test results, pictures are about right to my eye Indy the room lights I have no idea what to think with the pH, but I'm pretty sure it's above 8 Ammonia looks white, not yellow, but I'm thinking it's '0' Nitrite appears to be clearly '0' Nitrate is low.. color looks right to eye... Maybe 5? In other news, the damsel made a showing... I'm guessing about 50% of the body mass was disintegrated, so the near-zero nitrogen things and the spike of algae tells me things are cycled and safe, as long as the electricity is under control Edit: There's a little green up top, exclusively on the highest point right under the light. The fact that it's only in the brightest point makes me think it isn't just algae...it doesn't come up off the rock at all. I've never had green coraline, but I suppose it could be? Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  12. ah, so you have two water tight boxes wit bulkheads through the whole set using an extra gasket each. I guess that makes sense. I was thinking I could just have two partial boxes and use the tank glass as the 5th piece for each box...maybe it won't work....I'll have to keep stewing on this. FWIW, my 29g DIY peninsula 'AIO' has acrylic walls/baffles in the glass tank and seems to work fairly well, though I wouldn't know if there's a small leak since it's all wet back there anyways.
  13. hmm...I guess that's a debate, I was thinking it made sense to leverage the old thread. In my 'Planning the Dream' thread, I am asking about this too. Funny enough, when I was googling about the issue, it pointed me to this thread, so we (PNWMAS) do show up in google searches The idea is to have an external overflow with a coast-to-coast weir on a eurobraced tank (probably glass). How can it work in a way that maintains ability to clean things and is strong enough on a 72" wall (planning a 180)
  14. this is my question for my dream build I'm thinking about...so..BUMP!
  15. Great! About how thick is the internal box? I've been thinking 1", but...? Also, I've been thinking a eurobraced tank would be great, but then I can't really get into the internal box to clean anything (though...black acrylic would decrease the need for cleaning). I was thinking of putting small pieces of glass siliconed into place at the edges to support the internal acrylic, which would just rest in place. probably just get 1" x 1/4" glass 'strips', a 6' one along the back, and a pair of them on the ends of the tank to hold the corner of the internal box shape. This way I can just reach through the holes in the back wall and push the overflow out of its spot (at least if I drain the water level in the DT low enough I'm not fighting water pressure) for an occassional deepclean/de-clog. The shortcoming is that the internal box would have no seal at all, so it would slow-drain pretty far whenever the returns are off. Then I though of putting the eurobrace over to the external box and not on the actual DT back wall, but I'm not sure there's enough strength there...🤷‍♂️
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