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Burningbaal last won the day on November 11 2019

Burningbaal had the most liked content!

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About Burningbaal

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  • Birthday 10/20/1985


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    Bothell, WA

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    Near Seattle, WA

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  1. I'm happy with my reef-pi, its open source, so you buy the raspberry pi, and some parts for things like temperature sensors and controllable power outlets, etc. Extendable to include dimming LEDs, pH probes, dosing, ATO...lots of things. It's not for everyone, but I like it
  2. I bought a little less grow lamp off eBay. Snot 5x18x1" with dieing like 60w I think. It was less than $30 shipped. So far, it's growingy grape caulerpa and chaeto quite well, and I'm pretty happy. I have it shining through the glass on the back of my 29g (I diy'd it into an AIO), so it does grow a bunch of junk on the glass, which isn't ideal as I want it shining on the macro, but it's doing pretty well, I just grab my mag float (half) occasionally and wipe it off. Only real downside is mounting is a bit tricky, I have jerry-rigged for now...it deserves a better idea. Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  3. no specific triton experience here, but read a lot about it. I think saying 'triton with weekly water changes' is a bit like saying 'triton without triton'. But if what you're getting at is to keep doing what you're doing, plus doing a quarterly triton ICP and dosing accordingly, I think that's a perfectly great idea. One thing I'd say though, is to do an extra test on fresh saltwater. The point is: if they say your manganese is low (totally random example) and to dose something accordingly, but your salt mix has that element low, then you'll rapidly wipe out any dosing with the big weekly water changes. You'll either need to decide to ignore things in the results that are at odds with your new salt water or you'll need to make corrections to your new saltwater...in some cases, this might be a tough decision.
  4. you could, but I'd mostly just plan on getting a better ATO. There are many today that have a backup sensor on them, even two backups sometimes. The Tunze osmolator is surely the most famous, but my ebay (Kamoer) ATO is very similar, the ATK does it with extra safeguards, and many others. for the tldr: skip to the last paragraph They basically work by having two sensors, often the backup is a mechanical float sensor. Generally, when the main optical sensor is dry, it turns on the pump, when that pump sensor is dry, it turns off the pump. If the backup sensor gets wet, it stops the pump (even if it thinks the main sensor is dry) and usually sounds an audible alarm. Many also track a history of recent fill times and if the current fill is substantially longer than normal, it will stop the pump and sound the alarm. The ATK adds a further backup that the incoming water line goes through a float valve so if the whole system fails, the float valve should close the incoming hose when the water level raises especially high. For you, I'd start by leaving everything you have intact and adding a float valve as a backup. like you said "just putting a float valve in the sump directly", I'd say to do that but don't remove the ATO. this way if the ATO is trying to add water, but the water level has raised really high, the float valve will stop it. If you take the ATO off and replace it with the float valve, you have exactly one point of failure to end up in a flood. if you add a float valve, you get an extra layer of defense. Furthermore, I would add a ball valve on the line from the 30g to the 5g and generally leave it closed. this way if all the ATO/float valve system fails, you can only have 5 extra gallons dumped into the sump...a smaller mess. Every couple days, you can open the ball valve and let it fill the 5g bucket for a little while (the bucket's float valve will stop it at the right time), and you can close the ball valve at your leisure. Furthermore, if you have any kind of controller (or a solenoid and a mechanical outlet timer), you can set a solenoid to only open a few minutes at a time. I have my reef-pi controller set so it only turns on my ATO for 5 minutes every hour (I might drop that to 2 or 3 minutes, actually). It only takes it about 30 seconds to fill an hour's worth of evaporation, and this is an additional measure to limit the potential flood. You can get a similar effect with a solenoid to ensure the water can only flow a few minutes at a time. In any case, I'd make sure you're adding layers of defense rather than replacing one layer with a different one. You could add a controlled solenoid on the line from the 30g to the bucket so it fills the bucket for 20 minutes a day (for example), maybe during the time you're likely to be home (remember the float valve should stop the fill when it's full regardless of the time). Add a timer on your ATO to only run it certain minutes an hour, add a float above the ATO water level as a backup in case the ATO over-adds.
  5. I've just gotten started with reef-pi and reasonably happy so far, though I wish I'd built a real enclosure first...that's on my todo list; I recommend you start with a good box you can mount all the boards in (pi+hat, power supply and 12v converter thing, other misc side boards like for dosing/pH interface. Definitely give a look to Ranthelion's store on tindie, he's got a lot of the more interesting pieces you need and can't just buy on amazon/ebay.
  6. I can't speak to individual sumps, but the main thing with the Triton method sump is a large fuge, and usually placed a little different with regard to the skimmer chamber, but I wouldn't worry about it; big fuge is nice. As for light blocking, you can slide in a thin piece of abs or other light blocking material along the fuge... If the sump you love's only real shortcoming is clear fuge walls, just fix that yourself. If you can handle this hobby, you can darken a sump baffles Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  7. Good info there. Fwiw, I am one who was told CRA is closing their doors. I was talking to them as the only glass builder in the area and was planning a custom 180 or 210 with them until they said they are closing down, at least for custom tanks. Not sure the status of sumps and other things Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  8. No one hates the vortech, I'm sure you'll like your tank with them Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  9. I'm not sure if the xf280 is compatible with the same icecap controller, but if it is, your call but it (pump only) for about $50 not than an mp40, but the xf280 moves up to 6000 gph, the mp40 moves only 4500, the mp60 moves 7500, but costs way more (almost $200 more than the gyre setup). Moreover, that flow is, as@SuncrestReef said, a broader flow, which will have advantage on a smaller tank. You can put one in each end, having 4500 (max) from one side and 6000 (max) on the other, in different patterns. That's like 80x for your tank, which would be way overkill, but they won't run 100% all the time, do you'll probably need more like 40x... Which is great Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  10. Tricky question... It would be a ton of light, but you'd be missing some brightness on the ends ( about 8" on either end). You could actually use this to your advantage, putting things like cyphastrea or softies there (things that don't do great under high light), but it may not have the look you want. If I were in your shoes, I'd probably buy two of the 18" basic and do the hardware hack to get them under Apex control. You would lose the moonlight channel but you can add that with any of 100 options later if it's really critical. For most of us, you can just kick one light on 10% or so and get the effect you want for dim viewing. Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  11. But don't take my word alone...I do know my microbiology (BSc from OSU), and I'm super over the top on researching things I'm interested in (drives my wife crazy), but I'm only one guy. Go cruise here and other forums to see if I'm right. Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  12. Much easier to see! Ya, I'd go sbreeflights (and plan to buy one soon). There are reasons I wouldn't be the first to voice, but a fancy website does not mean they are better lights. Your can buy 3 or 4 of them for the price of one Radion 30 pro, if you're really worried , but an extra to keep on the shelf for backup There's an easy hardware hack to make the "basic" sbreeflight (or almost any cheaper black boxes) dimmable by any controller, and less temptation to keep messing with spectrum. The gyre might be less integratable. If that's critical for you, then the vortech is a winner. I plan to do some tinkering for my future tank and try to get the gyre controlled by my reef-pi, I'm sure there's a way to get it under Apex control, but it's surely not as plug n play as the vortech. One more: live sand isn't super critical if your starting with a bacteria product. I'd focus on getting the grain size you want, perhaps a single bag of live sand, and add a few bacteria starters. Prodibio, microbacter 7, Dr Tim's one and only, biospiro, fritz, others. I'd also continue to dose these and things like live rock enhance, microbacter CLEAN, Dr Tim's waste away periodically for the first year Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  13. Formatting is tough to read, the newlines got lost. But mostly it looks like you're ok. I'd be making sure the rodi and sw buckets are more like brute cans or 55g drums than a mere bucket, that may be your plan... Just making sure. It looks like you're going the route with a separate fuge, make sure you've got the plumbing all planned for that. I'd say the API kit is fine for ammonia and nitrite (cycle), but I strongly suggest a different kit for phosphate and nitrate. Most people like the Hanna PO4 checker, but salifert and red Sea pro are decent choices. Nitrate is hard, usually elos, nyos, and red Sea pro get the most support. Then salifert. I'd also encourage you to consider q gyre powerhead, maybe swap one vortech for a xf330 or even an xf350. Different flow patterns is worth a lot. Personally, I wouldn't spend the$$$ for Radion lights, but you're not likely to dislike them, only their sticker price. Main wired if caution with them is: don't tinker with them. Set them and stop messing with it except to change the total brightness/time when coral needs dictate. Messaging with the spectrum forces the coral to adjust pigmentation. Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  14. Yay! new tanks are so fun! Looks like you've got a pretty decent start at things; glad to see it! First thing I'd do is swap out the heater for smaller ones. Someday, the relay in the heater fails and if the way yours fail is on, you'll overheat the tank and kill everything in it. In addition (though this next part might be good enough on its own): get an additional temperature controller like the inkbird, the new one from bulkreefsupply, or put together a reef-pi with temperature control. you set these to slightly lower than the heater's set point and they kick on a different relay as needed, so the heater is always 'on', but it's only getting power when the controller allows it to. This other relay will also fail someday, but then the heater's relay is the backup. You can get an alert the tank is too hot (say, 78 instead of 75), which tells you the controller relay failed. it's time to replace the controller (or just its relay if you're handy), and no harm done. Next is to think hard about the chemipure. Since you are doing a weekly water change, and assuming you're keeping the tank and equipment clean from contaminants, and have the rest of the filtration running well, I would think it's not really adding much except a variable. a refugium to control phosphate and nitrates (in addition to the water changes) would be great if you can get it growing enough it needs harvesting. If you're going to keep it, though, I'd keep it in two halves and replace each half every other month. this way there's never a time when all of it is totally exhausted and then suddenly replaced with brand new...stability is key. If you're wanting the chemipure for the miscellaneous contaminant aspect, I'd just run some BRS rox carbon instead. Finally is on filter socks, you'll probably have a little better nitrate/phosphate control if you replace them twice a week, especially because you can use a finer sock (50 micron or even 10 maybe) without it getting clogged.
  15. That's fairly compelling... I'd be likely to set a very narrow band it's allowed to be in... presumably it can alert you if it hits the edge of the band? Not that I'm shelling out the moolah, just curious, I guess Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
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