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Everything posted by stylaster

  1. stylaster

    Super awesome aussie acropora spathulata

    Nice one but a very difficult coral to make it hold its color, Good luck with it!
  2. stylaster

    What do you do?

    Since we have such a great group of people here i thought it would be nice to know what you do and what you can help your fellow hobbyists with. Im a network admin and im happy to provide computer support for ya! Im also handy at doing plumbing and aquascaping.
  3. stylaster

    eye candy!

    Thanks for the great clam!
  4. stylaster

    WTB. 50-75 Ethernet cable

    Hey brian if you havent got this yet i got a ton of ethernet cables ill give you one or i can custom make you one any length you need
  5. stylaster

    Meeting on August 25th!

    I can't make the meeting sorry guys. I hope you all have an awesome time and score some really nice stuff from All Things Aquarium
  6. stylaster

    50g low boy

    This is my 50 gallon low boy frag tank. Its connected to my main system and has a gyre xf230 providing water motion. For lights i have two or arctic T247 and a kessil a160 tuna blue
  7. stylaster


    More of an SPS fan myself i enjoy the challenge of keeping them and watching them grow into large colonies in a relatively fast amount of time
  8. stylaster

    April 2018 Meeting Pictures at Golden Basket

    Looks like a great meeting glad you guys had fun!
  9. stylaster

    Photosynthetic gorgonian fs

    I remember shawn selling it for big bucks back in the day
  10. Looking forward to another great year. Its going to be tough to follow in Kims foot steps but ive done this once or twice so ill give it my best shot!
  11. stylaster

    Banana Rama

    New one that has been growing out.... the Banana Rama!
  12. stylaster

    Is it a Skimmer or Filter? It's BOTH!

    reminds me of an old product called a skilter!
  13. stylaster

    Banana Rama

    ill have a few frags of it for sale at the fragswap this year
  14. stylaster

    Centropyge potteri

    I have a hawaiian one in my system for over a year now. He likes to take an occasional nip at sps and lps but doesnt do any harm to coral. Gets along great with the other pygmey angelfish (hybrid half black and lemon) and no issues with the other fish (tangs, wrasses, damsels, dottybacks)
  15. stylaster

    Great SPS Guide

    For those of you interested in SPS or are into SPS this is a great guide to check out. https://reefhacks.com/the-ultimate-guide-how-to-successfully-grow-beautiful-sps-corals/
  16. stylaster

    Coral Giveaway!

    Share the love!
  17. stylaster

    Greetings from Kelso!

    Welcome to the club! Im in the kelso area also. Always happy to talk about the hobby
  18. stylaster

    Peter Pan

    Looking good!
  19. stylaster

    What SPS questions do you have?

    They dont give a [language filter] about you they are a fickle beast and do what they please
  20. stylaster

    What SPS questions do you have?

    If any of these are happening check your levels (alk, ca, mg, salinity, ph, temp) If any are out of range, bring them back into the appropriate values. For stn or rtn infections. If possible cut off branches about 1/2" above the dying tissue line. Remove the rest of the dying colony from the tank. Take the frags you are able to make and give them an iodine dip (lugols) for about 10 mins. Use a container with tank water and put the frags in. Add enough iodine till the water color is light tan. Put your frags in and let them sit for 10 mins. Take the frags out wash them in clean saltwater and superglue them on a frag plug. Put them back into the tank with lower light and strong water flow. Give them about a week to see if they recover. Coral bleaching is usually caused by either excessive light or temperature swings with the coral losing its zooxanthallae. Check your light schedule make sure it is working properly (ie lights arent running 24/7) and check your temperature range. Move the effected coral down away from any strong light sources. Give it about 2x less light then what it is currently receiving if the coral is under high light. If the issue is tank temperature bring the temp to around 77 degs. Reduce the lighting schedule to 6 hours a day for 2-3 weeks if you suspect lighting is the issue and watch how the coral responds. If it is going to recover you will notice dark spots in the coral tissue as the zooxanthallae try to recover in the coral tissue.
  21. stylaster

    What SPS questions do you have?

    I run a mixed reef, still predominately sps corals but here is what i do. I keep the SPS corals in the upper half of the tank in the spots where there is maximum amount of light and flow. Ill keep the branching ones up high. For the ones that plate ill keep them down low. Remember that form follows function. A branching coral is designed for higher water movement and brighter light, where a plating coral is designed for lower light and slower flow. As the sps corals grow and spread out they create areas under them that are perfect for shade loving corals such as leptoseris or leptastrea to grow. Most sps corals use the quick growth strategy to assert themselves on the reef. They tend not to sting their neighbors but instead will try to outgrow them. In placing other corals next to sps corals give them about 3-4" of space. This will in general give enough distance from corals with tentacles from reaching out and stinging sps corals. Be sure to check at night with this kind of placement, a lot of lps corals will send out sweeper tentacles at night to sting their neighbors.
  22. stylaster

    What SPS questions do you have?

    In my system i run NO3 at 5 ppm and PO4 at .05 ppm. Try not to strive for 0 on those level you need small amounts of each to maintain healthy corals. The zooxanthallae in the corals tissue need both nitrate and phosphate to survive. Ive had successful reefs running nitrates as high as 25 ppm and phosphates up to .1 ppm For alkalinity i run mine around 9 dkh. On average between 7 to 11 dkh is fine for a reef tank per some online queries. I have noticed though below 8 your sps will tend to brown out and lose their color. Above 10 and they will get 'burnt tips' ie the flesh will die back from the tips of the coral. Alk swings will also effect sps more so then other corals. The colors will shift or become lighter or darker. Growth will slow down and possible rtn or stn will happen with unstable alk. Stability is the key with alkalinity. Be sure to keep calcium (450ppm) and magnesium (1300ppm) at their respective levels, all three work in conjunction to help the coral create its carbonate skeleton.
  23. stylaster

    What SPS questions do you have?

    Since sps corals seem to come in with a host of pests more so then other types of corals. I always quarantine in a separate system. Dip the corals in your favorite pest dip (ie revive, bayer, etc) and put the coral into the quarantine system. I will place new frags off to the side or edge of the aquarium away from direct light for a week. I make sure they get adequate water flow and check them daily for any pests. After a week has passed i will move the frag closer to the light so its getting about double the light it originally was for another week. I will keep doing that for a months time. If the coral looks good and has adapted well to the system ill then move it out into the main display tank. If you dont have the option of a separate system or even a frag tank attached to the main tank i would start the frag out in the lowest area of your tank near the front so you can easily observe it. Move the frag every week up closer to the spot you want to put it. Do this over a months time so in theory you should move the frag 4 times until you reach the desired spot on your reef
  24. stylaster

    What SPS questions do you have?

    Good question and so many different ways to approach this. Here is what i do. For my light schedule i went for a 10 hour day, why's that? I copied the average day of sunlight in the tropics. That 10 hours a day is not full intensity but figures in the slow ramping up to a peak intensity and then ramping back down through the 10 hours. I use radion leds over my main tank for that feature. If you run t-5s, halides, or other leds that dont increase and decrease their intensity you can setup timer to turn on or turn off certain bulbs in a sequence to mimic sunrise and sunset. As for spectrum you will need to understand light penetration into the oceans water. Here is a good article that covers that http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/underwater-photography-lighting-fundamentals I personally like what is called a 20k look a blueish white light that the majority of corals flourish under. In the wild that would roughly equate to about 40 to 50' in depth. In regards to intensity this is where a par meter comes in handy. There has been lots of research into what par certain sps corals do best under. On average since most sps are light loving corals a rating of around 350 to 400 seems to provide the right amount of intensity to keep most sps happy. There are of course exceptions to this rule, such as a lot of the fine branch sps (ie red dragon) will do just fine under a lot less intensity. A lot of it ends up being trial and error. What i like to do is take several frags off of a colony and place them in different areas in the tank to see how they do. After a couple months look for the one that exhibits the best growth and color, get a par reading of that area so you know what that coral likes the best