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chewie

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Posts posted by chewie

  1. dang...looks like i just have seen the lucky 10-15 running long term...you ever think of just puttin an eheim pump on it instead of replacing it multiple times...cmon i know everyone on here loves DIY. still would be cheaper...hahaha

     

    my tank speaks for itself

     

    If it were mine, I would replace it with an eheim. These were replaced under warranty.

     

    Who said anything about your tank?

  2.  

    i also agree this whole area is biased due to increased sales in the area.

     

    I'll bite my tongue on this one.

     

    I DO NOT own a PCI reactor. I have worked on them in the past. There's one at SWF that I have REPLACED the pump on 3 times. Due to the pump overheating and locking up.

     

    [language filter] user error! I must not know what I am doing.

     

    In case Mbeef missed it, I'll quote what Brandon and I have said.

     

     

    Originally Posted by reefgeek84 View Post

    this is not a bash on PCI as a company, just their pumps on the CA reactors

     

    Agreed! I have worked on the PCI reactors, and the pumps aren't very durable. Just about everything else from PCI is GREAT!

     

     

    We aren't bashing the company. Just the POS pumps that are supplied with the reactor.

  3. I doubt the PSI form the cold supply is more than 80. Most homes are in the 35-70 PSI range.

     

    What kind of TDS meter are you using?

     

    Has it been calibrated lately? 1 good way to check is to test a bottle of "aquafina" bottled water. I have consistently tested around 12 TDS.

     

    How often do you feed the tank?

     

    Try not feeding for a week and see if the green film on the glass gets better.

     

    You could also try using another source of topoff water from a LFS. I know Saltwater Fanta seas has some REALLY good water.

     

    How long has the tank been setup? Size? Fish Load?

     

    If you have any mechanical filtration(filter socks, filter floss), it needs to be cleaned 2 times a week usually.

     

    What kind of skimmer, and how is it working? Is it producing green tea, or dark coffee?

  4. Go To Home Depot and get a garden hose Y adapter($5), a 1/2" MPT x 1/4" John Guest fitting ($5)and a 3/4"FPT x 1/2" FPT brass Reducer($2).

     

    Unhook the cold feed line to your washing machine.

     

    Connect Y adapter to the hose bib. Attach washing machine hose to 1 end of the Y.

     

    To the other end of the the Y, attach the 3/4"FPT x 1/2" brass reducer.

     

    Screw in the 1/2" x 1/4" JG fitting to the previous fitting.

     

    Now you plug in the feed line from the RODI to the 1/4" JG.

     

    For the drain line, run about 2-3 feet down the washing machine line.

     

    The pressure from that faucet should be in the 40-60 range which is better than under the sink usually. Just don't use the washing machine while making water.

     

    Hope this helps!

  5. Welcome to the site!

     

    It sounds like you have been researching alot.

     

    You may want to reconsider the 6-line wrasse, as they can become quite territorial amongst other wrasses. As long as you don't plan on adding and other wrasses you should be ok though. Just try to add him last.

  6. I'd suggest taking the 6-line out and put him in the sump, or another tank for a while and let any new wrasses establish themselves for a week before adding him back.

     

    My 6-line is named "Attila" :D

  7. The wrasse appeared (beaten up and almost dead) at the surface of the water :( Luckily, my 12g nano has nothing in it right now, so I was able to move him to that to see if he can pull through. He's not looking so good. (sad)

     

    'No idea what nipped off his tail and rear scales. (flame)

     

    I'd bet a dollar to a donut that your 6-line is the culprit. They are a territorial fish especially towards newly added wrasses of the same species or any other wrasses.

  8. I dont really care about size but my concern has been rumors about temperature. some people have had upwards of 3 degrees added to their tanks. I think I will still go with them.

     

    They only heat up if they are built up with CA deposits. Mainly around the driver (impeller).

     

    But the #4's only use 8w, so you're using way less energy for incredible flow.

  9. It is bleached. If it is eating it will recover and be a deep red BTA. When I get a split that goes unnoticed, and hides in the rocks for a week or 2 that is what happens to my roses.

     

    It does look very nice, for awhile but they always go back.

  10. Either choice listed will do GREAT on a 20 long. I have a 20L as my RBTA prop tank, and it's being lit by a 400watter right now. I have used 4 24w T5's, MH with actinic supplement, and VHO only. I think I even used PC on the tank before too.

     

    It really depends on what you plan out to keep in the tank.

     

    I think there are some really good 30" Fixtures with T5's. Aquatronica? I can't remember off hand, but they're a little pricey.

     

    Prolly the best way to go would to get a canopy built, and run either retrofit VHO's or T5's or both. If going with either of those, go with a shorter canopy.

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