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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/06/2016 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Did you hear that people, no future in reefing. You should all take your tanks down and donate your coral to me.
  2. 1 point
    And I just use super glue gel from the Dollar Tree or 10 packs of super glue gel from Harbour Freight, but yeah try gluing out of water! Just hold a few seconds and you should be good Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G360AZ using Tapatalk
  3. 1 point
    You should also always take it out of the water if possible, I always do just for a few seconds and I've never once had any issues Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G360AZ using Tapatalk
  4. 1 point
    I was going to post about adding more rock but that last shot is awesome. I really like your tank! Really good aquascaping in terms of the flow of the rocks.
  5. 1 point
    looks awesome! I love those little tanks Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
  6. 1 point
    Amazon/ebay would be your best bet. No, you cannot get them at the hardware store. I usually buy 3 packs on ebay from Rudy at Golden Basket.
  7. 1 point
    I used to use gel super glue and was forever having coral pop off the rocks. I switched to IC gel a while back and it's been golden. Just get a good glomp on the bottom of the coral and work the glue in to the rocks a little. Don't put it on flat rock or it won't work. This gel is also handy for sealing together precarious rockwork.
  8. 1 point
    Here's a couple quick videos to help show what's been mentioned so far.
  9. 1 point
    I use this stuff when i can. Other cyanoacrylate gel glues you can find at Lowes or Home depot will also work. Non gel won't work. Something i'm always still trying to master, try and get a "glob" of gel on the base of your frag and kinda dab it where you're trying to put it, the dabbing will allow more contact with the water helping harden the glue. A toothpick also comes in handy for this. Hope this helps.
  10. 1 point
    Oh and there are three heads there. If it comes down to a tie for first place I will take more pics from the side to prove it!
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Make your design a 3 channel instead of 2 channel. You need to separate true uv or violet from white otherwise you will be wasting uv / violet if set in the same channel as white. Because when you dim white you also will dim uv / violet in that channel, you may want to run uv / violet at 100% all the time not dim most of the time. Plus UV / Violet maximum drive is at 700ma and white can be up to 1.5amp on XP-G2, they are not suppose to be set up in one channel. It will be better to do 1:1 ratio of CW and WW and you will not need red & green diodes anymore. You will get all the green, yellow, orange and red spectrum from WW diode and casting more natural spectrum than single red or green diode does. Your overall spectrum will be more like 12K with the ratio of white and RB as per rapidled recommendation. You need 2:1 (RB:CW) to be able to pull closer to 20K spectrum. Since you plan to control the fixture it will better to be able to pull closer to 20K and you can adjust / dimming to make it more white. You will find out that most corals other than sps will not take white spectrum easily, the main cause of bleaching in aquarium are too much white led and tank temperature. You have 10 RB per channel, you can go up to 14RB per channel and run it at 1amp, the same for white channel, you can have 14 diodes also per string at 1amp. Instead adding 4 RB I would suggest adding 4 Blue / 470nm, blue & RB can be set in one channel. You can add RB to your white channel to complete the 14 diodes per string. This additional of RB act as supplemental so will be OK to put them in one string as white. This particular rapidled set up is an old school and old design / layout. I build like this layout over 5 years ago and will give you more white crisp look of the tank with less color pop. Daniel's reefi incoporated current design lay out with separate channels for each type of diodes for better control of overall spectrum posibility via control adjustment. You can achieve the same control capability with your diy if you are adding Storm or Bluefish controller, these are programmable and open source program available that you can download for free. Theclark is very experience programming this type of controller.
  13. 1 point
    Close up of a toad stool frag Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 1 point
    Puppies of the Sea Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    Avsdragon, If Brian is giving you a better option I would look into that. He has some useful knowledge.
  16. 1 point
    What's the cause for for the KH being 14-dosing something? I know Cuttlefishs KH is closer to 8.5 in the water he has.
  17. 1 point
    Instant ocean may have changed their formula. I have some really old buckets of I.O. and their Ca is around 350ppm and Mg 1200ppm. Newer version have Mg around 1400ppm and Ca at 400ppm. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk
  18. 1 point
    So excited! Now everyone can ask me the same questions I ask myself everyday. Questions like: Why are those SPS so pale? Has that scratch always been there? It should be fun!
  19. 1 point
    Instant Ocean Is great for Fish but doesn't include the additional trace elements for corals. You would be better off with salt mixes from Red Sea, Kent, or Instant Ocean's Reef Crystals. While I'm sure there is nothing wrong with purchasing from Jeff, just keep in mind buying and mixing your own salt with an RODI filter will be far cheaper in the long run. You would also be setup to have pre made salt water on hand in the event of a disaster.
  20. 1 point
    What salt mix are you using?