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Camera Advise


drock59

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All terrific information, thanks so much.

 

The camera is ordered and could be up to a couple weeks in transit. Ill post when I get it if I am not exhausted from taking photos. (scary)

 

The one thing I would do is read the manual front to back to understand all the little features it has.

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Ya, I cannot beat the price, however, my wife can beat me for buying a 600 dollar camera(will take advise on how to convince wife too :).

 

I think the D40 with the two VR lenses that auto focus, unlike older lenses with the D40, will be perfect for me. I am a novice photographer and I will not be using/needing most of the advanced features that a professional photographer would use. It's all just a matter of time now.

 

Here's an article explaining why your wife wants you to buy a new camera.

 

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/wife.htm

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LOL, that's a great article! I'll bet that some frilly, Martha Stewart-esque website has the counter article that shows how to get the husband to paint the house by walking him down the compressor and power-painter aisles at Home Depot (laugh)

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I have a decent tripod already.

 

Wired or wireless release?

 

Apparently the package does not come with a bag, so I will need to get one of those also.

 

What about something to protect the lens? Something similar to a case for an ipod or a filter that is simply screwed on for protective perposes.

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I have a decent tripod already.

 

Wired or wireless release?

 

Apparently the package does not come with a bag, so I will need to get one of those also.

 

What about something to protect the lens? Something similar to a case for an ipod or a filter that is simply screwed on for protective perposes.

 

I have a killer Tamrac Express 7 Camera Bag model 3537 http://www.tamrac.com/welcome.htm, I got it brand new for 45 shipped. Perfect for what you have and walking around.

 

Some people get UV filters for their lenses, I do not...I do not think you can get one for the kits lenses, cause they do not allow screwing of filters on the front of them. you should be ok, just be careful. if you are really worried about the camera and lens you can get nikon armor, but just be careful and you should be ok.

 

Get the nikon wireless remote, http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/207373-USA/Nikon_4730_ML_L3_Remote_Control_Transmitter.html

 

Also I would suggest getting a flash, amazing investment, I would either get the sb-400, good for most family shots and what not, if the budget allows get the sb-600, not quite as powerful as the sb-800, but the read out screen is way better then the sb-800. I am telling you a good flash is worth its weight in gold!!! If you do get a flash you will want a diffuser to go with it, they are cheap (clap)

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The kit lens DOES take 52mm filters, though I agree that using UV filters as protection is a bad idea -- why buy a decent quality lens only to screw a cheap UV filter onto the end of it? Besides, a serious knock to the end of the lens is going to punch through that cheap filter like it isn't there and put a hurt on the front element anyways. The best protection is putting the lens cap back on as soon as you finish shooting.

 

Thom Hogan's eBooks are worth every penny. I bought the version for my camera and really got a lot out of it. The D40 version is here: http://www.bythom.com/d40guide.htm

 

The IR remote is always out of stock. I've been trying off and on for years to buy one. Every time I think to check, it's out of stock (laugh) For slow shutter speed shots I just use the self-timer... though a remote would be nice.

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The kit lens DOES take 52mm filters, though I agree that using UV filters as protection is a bad idea -- why buy a decent quality lens only to screw a cheap UV filter onto the end of it? Besides, a serious knock to the end of the lens is going to punch through that cheap filter like it isn't there and put a hurt on the front element anyways. The best protection is putting the lens cap back on as soon as you finish shooting.

 

Thom Hogan's eBooks are worth every penny. I bought the version for my camera and really got a lot out of it. The D40 version is here: http://www.bythom.com/d40guide.htm

 

The IR remote is always out of stock. I've been trying off and on for years to buy one. Every time I think to check, it's out of stock (laugh) For slow shutter speed shots I just use the self-timer... though a remote would be nice.

 

I apologize for my wrong answer in saying that the kit lenses will not take a filter. But I am totally with you Andy, no need for a filter.

 

I am not sure why you have had such trouble getting the remote, ebay might be a place to try, call I can say is that the remote is one of my best investments, not just for the tank, but night shots and big ND filter shots that require a slow shutter speed. Like you said Andy, the self time works, just kind of a pain, but it does work just as well :-)

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Well the camera arrived today and I have say that I am pleased and also a little overwhelmed...not sure how I am ever going to find the time to figure out how to take nice photos. :)

 

 

Below are a few photos and I have a few questions.

 

1. Could someone explain what ISO is to me. When I turn ISO up, my pics just turn grainy.

2. Secondly, exactly how am I supposed to know what settings to use for a particular shot. Obviously there are a lot people with a lot of experience with photography but I have very little and know nothing. If someone could provide a good source to help me learn on my own, I would appreciate it.

 

DSC_0108_108.jpg

 

DSC_0140_140.jpg

 

DSC_0166_166.jpg

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Looks like you are off to a good start -- nice pix all the way around! :)

 

ISO is a measure of the sensitivity of the camera sensor to light. The higher the value, the more sensitive. Unfortunately, there is a trade-off; increasing the sensitivity also increases the level of noise in the image. It's this noise that you are recognizing as graininess.

 

Selecting exposure settings (shutter speed, aperture, film speed/ISO) for any particular shot is an art form unto itself, particularly if only using ambient light. In general, when shooting coral you can shoot with a lower shutter speed (since the coral isn't moving around too much) to gain increased aperture (to increase depth of field, particular desirable on close-ups). When shooting fish or other faster-moving subjects, a slower shutter speed will result in a blurred image so you have to increased the shutter speed and reduce the aperture (resulting in a shallower depth of field). Keeping ISO as low as possible is always desirable, particularly when shooting close-ups (since you'll likely be cropping the final image rather tightly, the noise will be particularly noticeable).

 

There are a bunch of good photo tutorial sites on the web. This is a good book on the basics of exposure... Really, the best way to learn is to shoot, shoot, shoot. With digital, there's no film to buy or develop so you can shoot everything at every setting and compare the results :)

 

Have fun!

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Thanks for the info.

 

Would I be correct to say that if I am shooting a nice tight shot of something a lower iso is recommended?

 

Also, if the ISO is the sensitivity to light, the darker the setting the higher the ISO, could be my general rule?

 

Lastly, a question on metering. Could someone lay out the basics? I was using spot metering as I was trying to focus and capture particular fish and coral, not a huge swath of things. Is this the right way to go or am I missing something?

 

Again, thanks very much for the help.

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Would I be correct to say that if I am shooting a nice tight shot of something a lower iso is recommended?
Yes, but I think it's generally broader than that: always use as low an ISO as you possibly can.

 

Also, if the ISO is the sensitivity to light, the darker the setting the higher the ISO, could be my general rule?
I'd try to avoid getting locked into that as a general rule. You have three basic variables (well, four if you include lighting -- flash or reflectors of some kind) you can control when building a correct exposure: shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Each has pluses and minuses; understanding how those variables interact in any given situation is the best general rule. The problem with arbitrarily raising ISO in low light is the the resulting noise is most noticeable in dark areas, so dimly lit shots will suffer more.

 

Lastly, a question on metering. Could someone lay out the basics? I was using spot metering as I was trying to focus and capture particular fish and coral, not a huge swath of things. Is this the right way to go or am I missing something?
For almost all general photography, the camera's advanced matrix metering system will guide you to the best exposure. There are situations that the system can't interpret correctly though (many of these situations are discussed in that book I linked in a previous post); of course, certain aquarium photography situations fall into this category. If there are large areas of both bright white and darkness (say, substrate and caves) the camera can get confused. In those cases, spot metering may be your best bet.

 

Also, be sure to experiment with aperture priority, shutter priority and manual modes; program modes are fine for general photography, but in certain situations (where you need a certain particular aperture or shutter speed) you'll need to go with one of the other modes.

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Andy, did a very good job covering everything...The most I can emphasize, is just go shoot and pay attention to what your settings are so you know the outcome of the picture...I would also go through each thing, shutter speed, aperture, iso...only adjust one and see the differences and then start mixing them up together to get a feel a for what you will get as an outcome of a photo...

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Great advice, RA -- making the same shot over and over again while changing only one variable at a time is a fine way to get a feel for the whole process. Since all of the exposure information is captured as Exif data, you don't even need a notebook ;)

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