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Help Setting Up QT & Acclimation Tanks


Kevinmc

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I am looking to start over with my 90 GAL after a fatal ammonia spike that nearly wipped out my tank. (flame) (flame) (flame) $ $ $ $ $

 

Recently purchased (2) 20 GAL tanks and (1) 10 GAL tank, and looking for a second 10 GAL tank and a thrid 20 GAL currently.

 

I also purchased a RO/DI and a UV sterilizer, and have been making new water and using gravel vac to do water changes and fill all of my other tanks. All of my water is being mixed 55 GAL at a time to insure that it is all the same for QT and acclimation for an eaiser transition for all of my upcoming new fish purchases (drooler) oh yah. (laugh)

 

What I am wanting to know is, what are the secrets to a good QT set-up and acclimation system. (scratch)

 

I am looking at starting this set-up in the next 2 days, so, any advise that you can give will be helpful to me, and others as well I'm sure.

 

Thanks

 

Kevin (laugh)

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Here is my QT tank. Real simple.

 

P8140195.jpg

 

Here is the contruction thread

http://www.pnwmas.org/forums/showthread.php?t=570

 

I do a 100% WC on the QT with water from the display on the same days i do a WC on the display. I topoff the QT with kalk water in the morning. I acclimate by adding about 1/4 cup of tank water to the new addition every 15 minutes for 1-2 hours. Then i dip in TMPCC, then add to the QT tank.

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Thanks guys,

 

MAN, I am tired of flushing fish. I AM GOING TO QT EVERYTHING FROM THIS POINT FORWARD. Everything is coming out this week and I am going to gravel vac the crap out of my entire tank. And then place rock back into my tank.

 

I also plan to reduce my sand bed to about 1".

 

gravel vac my tank into a funnel with filter media to retain sand, and flush tank water through my skimmer, and from my return back into my skimmer several time.

 

How do you test your tank or water for bacteria that may be killing fish?

 

I want to make sure that I have no other problems before I assume that everthing is okay.

 

I will QT all new fish in bare botton tanks until I can be sure that I am not dealing with any other problems.

 

Thanks

 

Kevin

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Unknown what caused the spike at this time. I would like to find out if water can be tested for bacteria?

 

I WILL NOT ADD ANYTHING TO THE TANK UNTIL I KNOW FOR SURE WAHT IT IS. I NEED TO FIGURE IT OUT AND TRY TO HAVE MY TANK STOCKED WITH SOMETHING BEFORE AUG. 3rd, AS I AM HAVING A HOUSE PARTY WITH A 90 GAL DISPLAY WITH NO FISH

 

All of my inverts are all alive, I have only lost fish.

 

My plan is to gravel vac the entire tank and remove most of my sand bed. Not sure how to know what the problem is. Doing another water change today, but, my (4) bubble tips are at the top of my rocks, and that makes a water change with gravel vac of 50% hard to do. Any ideas ? What ever the problem is, really is strange, because other then hermits and snails, and a few star fish, nothing likes the bottom of the tank.

 

My acclimation tanks are ready to drip, and QT tanks are ready to hold over new fish. If I need to buy more 10's and 20's to hold fresh live stock over I will. I just need fish in my display before my party.

 

I AM IN THE MARKET FOR SMALL TANKS TO HOLD NEW STOCK WHILE I AM WAITING FOR MY TANK TO TURN BACK AROUND. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. ALL TANKS ARE VEY CLEAN WITH A BLEACH SOAK AND FLUSH WITH 140 + DEGREE WATER AND AIR DRIED. SHOULD MY HAVE ANY PROBLEM WITH MY QT OR ACCLIMATION TANKS AFTER THAT CLEANING.

 

Thanks

 

Kevin

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Yeah, that'd be tough. Bacteria are always present in the environment, stress or trauma just gives them a foothold for infection. Personally, I'm not sure you're heading in the right direction but if you are really worried about bacteria, etc you might consider a UV sterilizer.

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If its a parasite or pathogen of some kind....it'll life cycle will time out with no hosts (fish)present should be safe to put fish in about 4 weeks , 6 to be extra safe.......just start qt fish now for that time to come.....I'd keep heat on the upper end (80) in your display tank to speed up metabolism of parasite and its life cycle......hth. Your inverts can stay

 

Also speaking from experience its a lot harder to keep many qt tanks " up to par" daily versus Just havin one larger one ....also wayer parameter are more stable....maybe look for a 29 gal.......

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Okay, thank you, CALLING ALL 29 GAL TANKS, CALLING ALL 29 GAL TANKS, PLEASE REPORT TO THIS THREAD......LOL. HEY, NO ONE IS ANSWERING....LOL.

 

I also am looking for information as to how many fish a guy can QT in a tank at a time. I have fish being held for me and I don't want to bring them home to QT tanks and screw it up, never doing this before. I have purchased fish of several sizes, I will place them according to size or level of temperment. All I have at this time is 20 GAL tanks. I also have purchased a few ich magnets, so they will remain in a tank of their own.

 

Can I get away with bare botton QT tanks (NO SAND, NO ROCK) just heater and filter on a powerhead?

 

I have had great luck getting the ammonia level down with fresh accivated carbon in sump and overflow box and a 48" flexible bubble wand, gravel vac, water changes.

 

I think I may be on my way again, I will give it several weeks and see where I am at before adding any fish. By the way, all of my inverts are doing great, and no death, not even my (4) flame scallops, why are they still alive when all of my fish are dead?

 

Thanks in advance for all of your help

 

Kevin

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Kevin - I've been reading your threads and it sounds like you seem to jump into things super quick and make massive changes. If I remember correctly, you lost a few tangs and other fish, and from the sounds of it your tank had only been up a couple months. SLOW DOWN. For the sake of the fish and other animals in your tank do not rush things. Saying you need to have a fully stocked tank by Aug 3 is setting yourself up for disaster, or a lot of lost fish.

 

I know it's hard to look at an empty tank with only rock, algae and crabs/snails in there for the first couple months. But it's necessary. I applaud you for setting up a QT system, but patience is a vital element that seems to be missing from your threads.

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The last fish that I got was a yellow tang, and I also got a 29g aquarium as a QT. I kept it bare bottom. I started off with tank water from a water change. I had a small heater, and a HOB filter, I think it was a Penguin. I used a copper solution becuase I knew how much tangs were prone to ick. I don't remember if I only QT'ed him for two weeks, or if I did an entire month. ??? It seemed to work, he is healthy, and doing well.

 

I most recently bought some LR from a guy that was getting out, so I put it all up in a 10g with only a heater and powerhead. I am glad that I did because the rock started to grow bryopsis something horrible. Now I am going to "cook" the LR to kill off all the bryopsis and start with nice clean rock.

 

In addition to the rock, I am using another 10g that I have as a hospital tank for some zoas that I found with nudibranchs. I was stupid and thought that I was getting zoas from a reputible LFS, and they should be clean. I was wrong. I found at least 14 aptasia, and then the nudibranchs started to show up. ARGH!!!! So all my zoas went into another 10g tank, and I am doing weekly inspections and permanganate dips (when needed). Lesson learned QT everything, even if it comes from a "good" LFS.

 

I agree with Jeff, you may be trying to rush things. Get a couple of fish that you really want, and add them slowly to your display. Having a few nice fish will be way better than trying to rush things and have the tank crash again. Once the bio-filter catches up to the load that a couple of fish make, then you can add one or two more. If you are doing a "reef tank" with corals, then there really should not be that many fish present. I have a 75g, and I have the obligatory pair of clowns, a foxface rabbitfish, a yellow tang, and a lawnmower blenny. I had a Hector's goby for several months, but I went on vacation for spring break, and when I came back, Hector was gone. ??? I feel that my tank is over-stocked. Especially with both a yellow tang and the rabbitfish. They are about the same color, and close to the same shape, and have similar roles, so they are competitors. They seem to constantly be fighting in my tank. I am considering removing one of them. I just have not made up my mind which one I want to keep more. Once one of them is removed, then I MAY get another small fish, I just have not seen one that catches my fancy enough that will get along with my current list (lawnmower bleney is a mean one, he chased a firefish all over the tank (finally went carpet surfing), and would not allow a orange spot goby to rest in the tank (also went carpet surfing).

 

dsoz

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Hey Thanks,

 

I do plan to QT all of the fish that I buy, I was very stupid not to have done so from the very beginning. DOH!DOH!DOH!

 

I am planning to QT everything atleast 2-3 weeks, and medicate then all, as for the ich magents, they will get six weeks + before going to the display.

 

What med do we recommend for good health and treatment for problems and ich?

 

The last fish that I got was a yellow tang, and I also got a 29g aquarium as a QT. I kept it bare bottom. I started off with tank water from a water change. I had a small heater, and a HOB filter, I think it was a Penguin. I used a copper solution becuase I knew how much tangs were prone to ick. I don't remember if I only QT'ed him for two weeks, or if I did an entire month. ??? It seemed to work, he is healthy, and doing well.

 

My 90 GAL pretty much consists of 150 LBS of live rock and 100 LBS of sand which I am taking out maybe 40-50% during this water change today and I will rubbermade tub it with heater and powerhead. No corals at this time, no one has been willing to help out a new guy with any donations...LOL. I will just buy mine whole and let you (drooler) all be droolers...LOL

 

I do plan to build more tanks in the coming months so my QT tanks will also be used as holding tanks for fish waiting for the new home. I am looking at a 180 GAL + as a room divider in the familyroom and a 150GAL in my newly remodeled master bedroom. These will all be tanks that my wife will own...LOL. As she now tells me that the 90 GAL is her tank. I will work this one real hard boys !!! She can have all of the tanks that she wants. What do you say, 1800 SQ of thanks in my house, I can deal with that.

 

Thanks

 

Kevin

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From what I've read it sounds like it wasn't the lack of QT that killed your fish, but the fact your tank wasn't ready for them yet.

 

Why are you removing your rock and sand?

 

Corals too require an established tank - so keep that in mind as well.

 

 

 

 

 

Hey Thanks,

 

I do plan to QT all of the fish that I buy, I was very stupid not to have done so from the very beginning. DOH!DOH!DOH!

 

I am planning to QT everything atleast 2-3 weeks, and medicate then all, as for the ich magents, they will get six weeks + before going to the display.

 

What med do we recommend for good health and treatment for problems and ich?

 

The last fish that I got was a yellow tang, and I also got a 29g aquarium as a QT. I kept it bare bottom. I started off with tank water from a water change. I had a small heater, and a HOB filter, I think it was a Penguin. I used a copper solution becuase I knew how much tangs were prone to ick. I don't remember if I only QT'ed him for two weeks, or if I did an entire month. ??? It seemed to work, he is healthy, and doing well.

 

My 90 GAL pretty much consists of 150 LBS of live rock and 100 LBS of sand which I am taking out maybe 40-50% during this water change today and I will rubbermade tub it with heater and powerhead. No corals at this time, no one has been willing to help out a new guy with any donations...LOL. I will just buy mine whole and let you (drooler) all be droolers...LOL

 

I do plan to build more tanks in the coming months so my QT tanks will also be used as holding tanks for fish waiting for the new home. I am looking at a 180 GAL + as a room divider in the familyroom and a 150GAL in my newly remodeled master bedroom. These will all be tanks that my wife will own...LOL. As she now tells me that the 90 GAL is her tank. I will work this one real hard boys !!! She can have all of the tanks that she wants. What do you say, 1800 SQ of thanks in my house, I can deal with that.

 

Thanks

 

Kevin

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I am only planning to remove sand, I believe my send bed is too deep. So I will make my sand bed about 1-1 1/2" deep as my sand bed is abot 3"... I this will make for a better system.

 

All of my rock will stay, or be used in my future tanks, as I have 150 LBS.

 

Thanks

 

Kevin

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Kevinmc, If you still need an extra tank, I have 4-50 gallon tru view aqrylic tanks. You can borrow one if you want and return it when your done. PM me if you interested. BTW I'm going to Medford this weekend and won't be back till Sunday night.

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I personally QT all fish going into my system for 4 weeks. 2 weeks may not be enough time to catch all parasites or diseases depending on the cycle. After the OCA tour we just had & getting to talk quite extensively with Timothy Miller-Morgan it was my intrepritation from our that a good number of fish that die for new owners due so more from stress than disease. He was saying that a 10 second catch in a net can release stress related enzymes in a fishes blood that can be measured for up to 30 days!!! Take that into consideration when you think what these fish have gone through. From the time they are caught they can easily be majorly stressed 3-5 times in a matter of 7-10 days. These stresses make a fish more vulnerable to diseases & death.

 

Dave

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I have been fowwloing along and want to help if I can also a few things. Donrt remove your sand. It needs to be at least 3 inches.

 

I think it is important that you read this page on deep sand beds and why we use them.

 

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm

 

And this one on maintaining sand beds.

 

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dsbmaint.htm

 

Personally I dont do anything to maintain my sand bed. The snails and starfish do it for me as well as the very swift current I have in my tank.

 

Here is a few tips for you to think about when setting up your tank and stocking.:

 

You can almost never have enough current in your tank, as long as the sand is not getting blown around the tank into piles its not to strong. This current will help keep uneaten food and fish poop up suspended in the water colmn where it can go down the overflow into your sump to your filtersock or skimmer and removed.

 

Invest in a good skimmer.

 

Only feed your fish what they can eat in a few minuts. Dont overfeed. Fish can go a couple weeks without being fed if needed, especially if you have lots of good liverock. Im not saying dont feed them but sparingly. especially at first when your tank is new. It will take months and months for your tank to mature to the point that it can handle a huge bioload. I feed my tank everyday a varied diet of seafood like mysis and brineshrimp along with many other things. I also use Boyds Vitachem on their food 2-3 times a week. My tank can handle all this food because its mature and full of worms and tiny stars and mysid shrimp pods and who knows what else is in there. Lots of good bacteria. What Im trying to say here is, start with 2 small fish then add from there later when your tank can handle the bioload.

 

I think I saw you ask what needs to be tested:

 

Amonia only in the first

Nitrite...then again only while cycling. Im sure you understand this but I am mentioning it anyway.

Nitrate once a week until you feel you dont need to anymore. I dont test for it much anymore

Calcium....only really need to test this after you start keeping corals

Alkalenity....again only when keeping corals

Magnesium...when keeping corals

Strontium...when keeping corals

 

Make sure you have enough liverock. Liverock is magic stuff and if you keep lots of current with lots of liverock this will go a long way helping you keep a healthy tank. Along with your livesand bed of 3-4 inches.

 

Last thing is try to keep a refugium with cheato or caulepra algae. When I finally added a refugium to my first tank I was stunned at how much easier it was to keep up my tank. Even makes it easier to go longer without having to do a water change. I can always tell when its time for a water change.

 

Use Carbon and change it every 3 weeks or sooner.

 

I am tired of typing. I hope this helps you with your tank. Sorry if I am telling you stuff you already know but hey...advice is free and I like to help new hobbiests if I can.

 

Jay

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