In for my first real adventure here, had a false start a couple years ago, but over the last month or two I have gathered gear, some used and some new. I have a 75 Gallon tank used tank (clean) that was already drilled. I have researched for the last month and this is the plumbingI have come up with based on what I have, researched, how it’s already drilled, etc.. Please fact check me and provide any recommendations. Pictures are not for scale, but should give a good idea of fitting type.
Sump will be a DIY 20 gallon long, or I might splurge and buy a kit.
2x 1” Drain Lines
Drain line bulkheads are on the back plate, they are 1” and at the same level as each other Main Drain Line will have a downward facing elbow and a Gate Valve on it Backup Drain Line will have an upward facing elbow and no valve on it 1x ½” Return Line
Double Pump Setup for redundancy Pump will have a braided vinyl pipe to a barb fitting, from there a check valve to deal with the two-pump system. Will feed into a manifold system, pardon the scale and 3d on drawings. From the Manifold returns to the system with a 90* elbow off the 4-Way straight to the top with loc-line for aiming I put in unions all over the place, I know I’ll have to break down and move this in the next 1-2 years, but did I go overboard? While I want to do it right, I don’t want to waste money either 😃
2x 1" 90* Elbow
3x 1" Unions
4x 1" 45* Elbow
2x 1/2" Barb
2x 1/2" Check Valve
3x 1/2" 90* Elbow
3x 1/2" T's
6x 1/2" Ball Valve's
11x 1/2" Unions
So the bulb went out on the little cube that I picked up recently, and i'm at a crossroads of where I want to go with this tank lighting wise. I would like to start with high end zoas, and add sps down the line although that's a ways away as the tank was just established, and I'm monitoring fluctuation as I'm going basics with this tank. (carbon, filter floss, water changes) I really like the hood that's on it currently because it reduces evaporation to almost nothing which is a big deal on a 6 gal tank. So if I do switch out the light it would be best case scenario for it to fit in the current enclosure. The new jbj cubes did upgrade the light they came with to an LED but I'm just not convinced that it will put off the par I'm looking for with going through an upgrade.
This is the current bulb that is in the tank.
There are also 2 LED diodes that are blue so its very washed out with whites.
If I removed the current lighting components I would be working with a space that is 9.5" wide and 5" tall. The lid has a curve to it so the depth in the middle is 1.75" and tapers down to 1" towards the back of the tank. The tank has a depth of about 11" for the light to penetrate. So I guess what im getting at here is do I replace the current light that I have with a new light? Or do I supplement with more blues, and if this answer whats the best option for that? On of the reasons I am for replacing the light entirely is that I really like the idea of both spectrum being on a controller.
Thanks for your input,
Before I spend a ton on materials for the next build, I want to see if anyone is aware of any large acrylic tanks that are used and/or reasonably priced? Leaks, scratches, seams, repairs needed etc.. are no problem, my son and I like to restore tanks anyway
looking for 8x4 or larger (any size with 48” or more width). No need for a show tank. Cash in hand.
So I'm planning on using a bluefish mini WiFi controller with the mean well ldd-h drivers for my 180 build. The highest amperage driver they have is a 1500mA one. And I'd need more like 4500mA for the Royal blue channel alone. So my main question is, can you run more than one ldd-h driver off of one pwm channel signal so I can get a total of 4500mA, the outputs of the drivers won't be connected in anyway. I tried to draw a basic of what I want to do.
Decided to build my own calcium reactor after doing alot of research on them and ended up with this.I was looking a for a good cost effective build and I really liked the look and simplicity of Geo's reef reactors, but for the size I needed, the price was a bit high, especially since they only came with a.c. pumps. So this one will be able to handle systems up to 300 gallons plus another hundred if a secondary reaction chamber is added onto it. My total cost for everything, including tools and solvent cements was $127.89. (Seems like a pretty good price for a D.C. Calc. Reactor)