GreenJeans Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 I placed an order for a 4x4x2 CustomAquariums display tank, likely to be delivered around the end of January. I'm using the time until then to cycle rocks in a Brute can, construct my fish room, plan out plumbing and electricals, and create a stocking plan. I thought it'd be a good idea to start a tank thread to get any early feedback for parts of my plans that I might want to change! Once it's all set up: Tank - 4' x 2' x 2' CustomAquariums tank with stand, 5/8" ultra clear glass. Drilled for one return and one overflow. With stand. - Trigger Systems Triton 44 sump, ~40gal - ReefOctopus Regal 200Int 8" P.skimmer - 2x ReefOctopus Varios-2 pumps for the return (on separate circuits for redundancy) - 2x 300w Jaeger heaters - 2x VorTech MP40 w/ battery backup - 3x Kessil A360x lights - Kessil A80 light on the fuge - ~120lbs BRS reefsaver rock - light sand bed, Aragonite Fiji Pink dry sand Control - Apex - Extra energy bar for the secondary circuit - Triton - DoS pump - Tunze Osmolator for ATO - Apex leak detectors all over the place - Apex wifi module to connect to MP40s (and maybe the kessil lights' wifi dongle?) Mixing Station - Mop sink with cold water - 5 stage RoDi - 75g tank for salt mix, with varios-2 mixing pump - 25g tank for fresh water Quarantine - 20gal long with a divider, for 2 10gal tanks - sponge filters - small heaters - ammoalert badges - PVC pieces You can see a square hole cut above the sump, which passes into a closet next to the display tank. This is where I will feed a hose for draining the display tank to the wash sink with one of those syphon hookups, and filling by connecting to the salt mix plumbing. I had an electrician add two new circuits to my breaker bo I'm waiting on the display tank to arrive before finalizing the sump plumbing and cutting holes in the wall to pass pvc through. The 44gal Brute can is cycling the rock, with a 10gal aquarium growing chaeto as a makeshift sump. This is helping control my nitrate levels quite well, and I think I'll be able to use my cycling water in my display tank. I'm keeping the fuge on a reverse photo period from the get go, 14hrs on. My biggest question right now is stocking...how do I choose and how do I plan the order? I expect I'll need to pick up a small clean up crew early on, some snails, hermit crabs, shrimps and the like. It sounds like most people pick up a pair of clowns first, so I'll probably go this route. Some stocking goals: - lots of inverts. Urchins, stars, shrimps, snails, crabs... - lots of pairs/symbiosis...shrimp and goby, cleaner shrimps and all the fish... - Harmony - I don't want to have to evict anyone or lose expensive fish or corals - Color/motion - Visually interesting - Functional additions - most introductions into the tank should have an active role in the ecosystem. Algae control, parasite control, etc etc. Watching BRS, these come up a lot for young reefs: Clownfish pair Yellow tang bristletooth tang lawnmower blenny six line wrasse goby fox face How would you stock a ~160g system? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertareef Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 Looks like you have things well thought out! Congrats on the custom tank build. Couple questions - are you going to run a remote sump or in the stand? Wasn't quite sure from the description. Obviously access is a lot easier with the remote option and quieter in your tank space if you can pull it off. Also, what is your plan for the overflow/return? What kind of setup are you going to run - seems like if it's drilled for one of each it might limit your options. You mentioned two return pumps - are those running sequentially on in series somehow? Just curious. As for the stocking I would only say add the tangs at the same time if you can and skip the six line if you think you might add any other wrasses in the future - my experience with them is that they always turn out to be bullies. Good luck! Can't wait to see this come together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenJeans Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 Thanks! Yes, the sump will be remote. You can see it in the closet in the pictures there, it'll be plumbed through that wall to the living room. The overflow will be from CustomAquariums, their 1200gph H2Overflow, set up in a bean animal config. The return will be two varios-2 pumps > silicone tubing > Y check valves > Tee > Bulkhead with 3 ports > single CustomAquariums SiphonStopper...maybe split into two returns in the tank. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenJeans Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 I was originally going to use 1 DoS pump to use BRS 2-part for alk/calc/mag, but....I have the sump for it, why not go Triton method right out of the gate?I'd need to add a second DoS pump, and then plan to use the Triton 4-part...I think that's it. Maybe a bigger return pump? My fuge section is already 18gal.I like the idea of no filter socks and very minimal water changes, based on thorough testing.The method has been around for a few years now, and it seems like the 4-part is easy to source these days? I know that was a problem before...Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdxmonkeyboy Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 My thoughts.. Fuji pink is really fine sand and will get blown around if you have enough flow for SPS. BRS two part is by far the cheapest route to go for cal and alk. Almost nobody auto doses magnesium. Amazon LED grow lights make great fuge lights. Looks like a great build. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenJeans Posted January 30, 2020 Author Share Posted January 30, 2020 Great point about the sand. Which sand would you recommend as appropriate for sand-sifting creatures (gobys etc), while allowing me to maximize my flow? I went ahead and ordered a second DoS pump and the Triton 4-part additives, looking forward to trying out the Triton method. I already have the Kessil H80 grow light for the fuge - I'll probably supplement it with much cheaper amazon grow lights if I need more than the H80 will put out. Thanks for the thoughts! The tank should be delivered next week, looking forward to planning out and installing the plumbing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenJeans Posted February 11, 2020 Author Share Posted February 11, 2020 It's all set up, and nothing leaks! I originally planned to hard plumb everything, all sorts of fancy valves and manifolds - but needing to get behind the tank to hook things up necessitated I keep some flexible tubing, and there just isn't much room in the sump area for lots of plumbing. The result is that the sump is much further away from the wall than I was hoping, and the whole system is much simpler than I was planning, but flow and serviceability are much better over the alternative...I would have had to use so many 90's to get everything to fit with pvc. Ended up only being able to install one return pump, so I'll be planning to upsize it soon. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 Great work! I recently purchased a Custom Aquarium tank as well. As a new hobbyist, it looks like you've dove right in...lots of forethought into the planning and lots of quality equipment. Are you also running a gate valve at the tank in addition to the sump? Not totally sure the benefit of having one at the sump, but having one at the sump will make adjustments easier. Guess it all works either way though. What's your overflow?Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenJeans Posted February 12, 2020 Author Share Posted February 12, 2020 Thanks for the encouragement. I'm only running the one gate valve at the sump, and mostly have the hang of tuning it from there - I read somewhere that the valve should be at the sump end of the line, and seemed to make sense to me for optimal flow. The overflow is the one from customaquariums, the Stealthbox H2Overflow. I have it configured bean animal style - currently the open pipe has no cap or U or anything, so it's making a bit of noise. The plumbing I got doesn't fit due to the bulkhead poking into the overflow, so I'll need to figure something else out to silence it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Thanks for the encouragement. I'm only running the one gate valve at the sump, and mostly have the hang of tuning it from there - I read somewhere that the valve should be at the sump end of the line, and seemed to make sense to me for optimal flow. The overflow is the one from customaquariums, the Stealthbox H2Overflow. I have it configured bean animal style - currently the open pipe has no cap or U or anything, so it's making a bit of noise. The plumbing I got doesn't fit due to the bulkhead poking into the overflow, so I'll need to figure something else out to silence it.Are you referring to the bulk heads that connect the overflow to the tank? They stick too far into the overflow itself? If that's the case, which was my problem (I have dual Modular Marine overflows) I learned from them that you're supposed to take a hacksaw and cut down the threaded side. You only need as much thread as it takes to hold the nut. The rest of the threaded part can be sawed off. As for the location of the gate valve, I was just thinking about needing to make any tuning adjustments. When you have to change something it'll be running to the sump, adjust, then back to the tank to assess. Like I said, it works either way. Glad you got it tuned though. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenJeans Posted February 13, 2020 Author Share Posted February 13, 2020 Thanks for the tip! That makes perfect sense, I just need to figure out how to safely trim the bulkhead while it's attached. Yes, lots of running between rooms, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenJeans Posted February 25, 2020 Author Share Posted February 25, 2020 (edited) Progress! Thanks for the tip, trimming the bulkhead was no problem and the overflow box looks great and runs silent. Here's some fresh pictures of where I'm at! A little bit of cable management to do, and installation of the WXM module once it comes back from Apex support...almost there. Running another batch of fish through QT now! Some chromis, pintail fairy wrasse, and 3 fire fish gobys. Edited February 25, 2020 by GreenJeans 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted February 26, 2020 Share Posted February 26, 2020 Progress! Thanks for the tip, trimming the bulkhead was no problem and the overflow box looks great and runs silent. Here's some fresh pictures of where I'm at! A little bit of cable management to do, and installation of the WXM module once it comes back from Apex support...almost there. Running another batch of fish through QT now! Some chromis, pintail fairy wrasse, and 3 fire fish gobys. Awesome work! Happy the bulkheads worked for you. Don't know if you ended up cutting them while they were in place, but definitely nothing wrong with cutting them and then putting them on. You just want to make sure you have an open thread to start the nut. Glad it worked out either way!Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaylorW Posted February 26, 2020 Share Posted February 26, 2020 Wow I'm very impressed [emoji119] amazing, especially impressive for a first tank! You definitely took your time and did your homework, many people don't and try to rush in (I may have been one of those people, at least for a couple things anyway [emoji848]) I love how you took the time to try to think of everything, especially love how you mentioned "Harmony," that really stuck out to me because so many people want the pretty fish, but don't bother to look them up and then add them to their tank only to find out they eat corals or relentlessly bully everything else and learn the hard way. I look forward to seeing your beautiful tank progress! Congratulations [emoji322] Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenJeans Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Update! Things are going well, progressing along as expected I think. Just starting to get a patch of dinos in a portion of the sand...should I address this, reduce light? Or just let it play out...? Some green algae starting to form on the rocks too. I re-spaced the lights to get more even distribution, ~18" apart and centered. I also removed a good amount of sand - it sounds wise to keep it relatively shallow so it's easy to maintain. My skimmer is WAY too big! It's been hard to tune given how light the current bioload is. Current stock: - Clown pair - 3x Red firefish - 5x Green chromies - 1 Randall's goby w/ pistol shrimp - 1 Pintail fairy wrasse - medium-sized cleanup crew - 2x mithrax crabs, hermits, snails... My Fish QT tank is empty! What should I add? Some ideas I had - a blenny, royal gramma, small yellow tang, coral beauty... In coral QT: - Frogspawn - candy cane? - some little orange encrusting guy - 2 heads of zoas I'm waiting to dip these all until I receive some frag plugs to mount them on, they're all just loose, and then I'll start a 45+ day QT period for them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaltyJay Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 (edited) Blenny definitely. Tons of personality and they are constantly eating algae from the glass and rocks. The Starry Blenny are really cool looking. Have you thought about Twin Spot Gobies? They can be a little tough to keep fed but one of my favorites. Setup looking really nice. Edited March 29, 2020 by SaltyJay 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenJeans Posted October 9, 2020 Author Share Posted October 9, 2020 Belated update! I'm so glad I started this project before quarantine, it's been great to have a project to focus on. The most recent livestock additions are a blue hippo and a purple tang. I tried to add a harem of lyretail anthias, but only one female made it through QT (the rest got uronema) Both the fish and the coral QTs are empty!! Time to go pick something up...I was thinking I'd add a Bella Goby, some kind of Blenny, and a harem of Lyretail Anthias if I can find some... Any thoughts? Also hoping for some Apex debugging tips (@suncrestreef?) - my return will occasionally shut off for just an instant (which triggers the dependent equipment off) and immediately come right back on. I haven't figured out what's causing it. I have logging enabled for all my switches (based on a vOutlet, since you can't log switches), and nothing is appearing in my logs. Still never had any issues with algae showing up, in fact my ball of chaeto died off. I've got a TON of vermitid snails 😞 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenJeans Posted October 9, 2020 Author Share Posted October 9, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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