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Rodi help please!


xxkenny90xx

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Ok so I waited way too long to replace my rodi filters (5 years) but I finally got it done yesterday! Problem is my blue di chamber (and my sediment filter) turned completely orange during the first 2 hours of running it and my water currently tests as 
Ro 7ppm
Di 2ppm
Tap 23ppm

These numbers are about the same as before I replaced the filters (not happy)! What is going on? Is it the cheap Amazon filters I ordered? Thanks guys

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What water supply is it connected to?  If it’s a dedicated water line, orange sediment filter could be excess rust that flushed off the pipes with the extra water flow when refilling the canisters?  The tds on your RO seems high compared to your tap. That’s only a 70% rejection rate. And it’s hard to tell from the picture, but is your di connected after the carbon, or after the RO membrane?  It should be connected after the RO membrane

Edited by parvo99
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My water is spliced into my cold water line under the kitchen sink and the pic is flipped around, it goes sediment, carbon, then di filter. Thanks for the reply, I'm wondering if I just bought cheap filters but really 2 hours? It just doesn't make sense to me

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My water is spliced into my cold water line under the kitchen sink and the pic is flipped around, it goes sediment, carbon, then di filter. Thanks for the reply, I'm wondering if I just bought cheap filters but really 2 hours? It just doesn't make sense to me
Wow something doesn't sound right... I've bought them off Amazon several times no issues at all. I'd let someone who knows more about this hopefully chime in, hopefully someone smarter than myself can help you figure it out

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Ok, so just to be clear, it should go sediment, carbon, RO, DI. The RO should drop your TDS down to almost 0 before going through the DI as the last step, otherwise you’re going to fly through the DI. Looking at your picture, it should be 2 sediment and a carbon, or 1 sediment and 2 carbon. The DI should be in a separate canister after going through the RO membrane

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Ok, so just to be clear, it should go sediment, carbon, RO, DI. The RO should drop your TDS down to almost 0 before going through the DI as the last step, otherwise you’re going to fly through the DI. Looking at your picture, it should be 2 sediment and a carbon, or 1 sediment and 2 carbon. The DI should be in a separate canister after going through the RO membrane

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I believe he already said it goes sediment carbon then di. So it's gotta be something else

 

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I meant, in the picture it looks like he has the di right after the carbon. The RO membrane should be right after the carbon, and the DI should be after the RO membrane. Although, his tds numbers would indicate that the filters are in the correct order. The biggest issue I see is that his 23ppm Tap is only down to 7ppm after the RO. It should be near 0

Edited by parvo99
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Ok I did just replace all my filters but I was advised that I could omit one of my  carbon blocks (due to low tap tds) and use that section for the di (my old di section wasn't reusable) which like parvo said put it before the RO section. So I guess that's where I went wrong. Thanks for the help guys. I am still wondering why I'm getting 7 tds from the RO though? 

Edited by xxkenny90xx
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2 hours ago, xxkenny90xx said:

Ok I did just replace all my filters but I was advised that I could omit one of my  carbon blocks (due to low tap tds) and use that section for the di (my old di section wasn't reusable) which like parvo said put it before the RO section. So I guess that's where I went wrong. Thanks for the help guys. I am still wondering why I'm getting 7 tds from the RO though? 

I feel bad as I advised you to do this but was meaning that you redo the plumbing so the 3rd chamber that currently has your DI resin comes after the membrane. Sorry if that wasn’t clear. My unit has JG fittings and tubing between the 3 chambers, is yours all directly attached with male/male threaded adapters? If so, it will probably take some fittings to re-route everything properly. Mine would be more of a tubing switcharoo instead of taking it apart and refitting it.

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Viper my membrane is brand new, thats why I am not understanding the 7ppm? Blue z no need to feel bad, it seems I misunderstood (yes mine has the male to male fittings that can't be rerouted). No big deal either way, at least now I have a good understanding of how these rodis work! So I'll be ordering a separate di chamber and another carbon filter (or should I go with another sediment filter?) for where the di is now, should I go ahead and order more di resin as well or might my current orange di resin still have some life left in it? Thanks for helping me sort this out guys! 

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I’d do 1 sediment and 2 carbons (maybe do like a 5 mic and a 1 micron carbon filters)

 

The resin probably doesn’t have any significant amount of life left if its completely color changed. 

 

What membrane did you get? If you are getting the semi standard 98% rejection you should be outputting 1 or 0 (undetectable by meter <1). Do you have a pressure gauge? Possibly low pressure or not installed pressure restrictor/fast flush on your waste line?

Edited by Blue Z Reef
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Are the ppm numbers you posted correct?  If your di is before your RO membrane, it doesn’t make sense that it’s only 2 out of the di but goes up to 7 out of the RO, unless there’s something in the RO membrane that needs to be flushed out, or you took the RO reading after the DI was exhausted. Also, if you just replaced the RO membrane as well, I would double check that it’s installed the right way, and seated properly. Even without the DI, you should only be reading maximum 1 or 2 ppm

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