householdofpayne Posted March 28, 2019 Author Share Posted March 28, 2019 1 hour ago, Blue Z Reef said: Good to see that pressure come up! Have you measured/timed your waste vs product? Ideally your waste should be 3 or 4:1 (lots of factors including water quality/system/pressure/etc affects this). You should get the fast flush for flow restriction. I dont think any issues should arrise from heating the water as long as your storage container is clean. Just be a bit of a waste of energy is all but that’s your call. i don’t use any floats or anything on mine so can’t help out there (garage flood pro LOL). I haven't measured waste to product yet just got my water change corner set up! Before hand I had the RODI under the kitchen sink and would put outlet to a 5 gal bucket, and the waste down the drain. We had a stand up shower that no one ever used so I converted it into my water change corner haha. Bottom can is on wheels so I can wheel it out to the tank for water change. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuncrestReef Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Good use of space, plus you have a towel holder in a perfect location! 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parvo99 Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 The easiest way to automate your RO/DI is to get this https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
householdofpayne Posted March 29, 2019 Author Share Posted March 29, 2019 6 hours ago, parvo99 said: The easiest way to automate your RO/DI is to get this https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html Thank you that was exactly what I was looking for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xmas_one Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 On 3/20/2019 at 10:33 AM, householdofpayne said: I will get the pressure gauge hooked up tonight and report back with my inlet pressure to further diagnose. MY inlet TDS is 24ppm, outlet TDS is 0. Your raw tap water is 24ppm? I’m wondering how necessary it is to run RO/DI on 24ppm water. Way back when we used to run terrible tap water ~400ppm with just dechlor to mix with salt. Not ideal, but it worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
householdofpayne Posted March 29, 2019 Author Share Posted March 29, 2019 1 hour ago, xmas_one said: Your raw tap water is 24ppm? I’m wondering how necessary it is to run RO/DI on 24ppm water. Way back when we used to run terrible tap water ~400ppm with just dechlor to mix with salt. Not ideal, but it worked. Figured my DI resin would last a year haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Z Reef Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 10 hours ago, xmas_one said: Your raw tap water is 24ppm? I’m wondering how necessary it is to run RO/DI on 24ppm water. Way back when we used to run terrible tap water ~400ppm with just dechlor to mix with salt. Not ideal, but it worked. A lot of areas in Portland (amazingly) have really good TDS ratings. What you should remember about TDS is it is simply a reading of the presence of something in the water in PPM, but doesn’t indicate if it’s good or bad. It’s always smart to start with the best and leave out the variables with water. At 24 TDS his membrane and filters likely will last longer. Resin exhausts based on membrane output TDS. Membranes are usually 96-98% rejection. Though that may seem like a small difference, if one outputs 2 TDS from your membrane and the other 4, your resin will theoretically last twice as long with the higher rejection membrane. Since I moved from Vancouver to Camas, my TDS went from 110 to about 50. I’ve noticed a huge reduction in resin use even though my membrane output TDS was only about 3-4 in Vancouver and reads 0 here in Camas (obviously there is TDS but the in-line meter isn’t accurate enough to detect currently). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
householdofpayne Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 (edited) So did some upgrades and measured as I went along. Started with a 4 stage RODI with a pressure of 60psi. I think new there was suppose to be a flow restrictor in the line that I did not have, so the first measurement might be a bit below that of one new out of the box. I have a inlet of 22TDS, and of course an outlet of 0 TDS. The first product I installed was a 600ml fast flush. This went in place of the restrictor I was missing, and allows be to go wide open the first 10 or so minutes of start up. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/membrane-flush-valve.html The second product I installed was the water saver upgrade kit. This was just adding a second RO membrane. Below are what I measured. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/water-saver-upgrade-kit-bulk-reef-supply.html 4 stage w/60 PSI: 1 gal RODI Produced 25 gal waste for a total of 1:25 or 4% in 25 minutes Added fast flush w/80 PSI: 1 gal RODI Produced 3 gal waste for a total of 1:3 or 33% in 15 minutes Added 2nd RO w/80 PSI: 1 gal RODI Produced 1.25 gal waste for a total of 1:1.25 or 80% in 5 minutes. I am very pleased with the end result and find it much more feasible to now recapture the remaining waste and bring it out to the yard. I am also happy with the fact that I purchased the auto shut off kit, as with this fast of a production I could see myself making a giant mess really fast 😂 https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html Edited April 5, 2019 by householdofpayne 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuncrestReef Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 Wow, huge improvement of waste water! Nice work. 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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