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ChrisQ

Anyone have one of these (or similar)

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Hmmm, is it just me or does that bulkhead in the example pic look backwards? :tongue:

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3 minutes ago, ChrisQ said:

Hmmm, is it just me or does that bulkhead in the example pic look backwards? :tongue:

Maybe they forgot to put the bulkhead in before they glued on the back panel?

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Posted (edited)
17 minutes ago, Jack-the-reefer said:

Maybe they forgot to put the bulkhead in before they glued on the back panel?

I thought with these boxes they require a second gasket in between the tank wall and overflow box wall. 

I'm still trying to figure out how this style works. I wish it was a beananimal and it would be up and rocking!

 

I think this is where i read that and got that idea...

https://www.marinedepot.com/CPR_RSS_Overflow_Box_Retrofit_Surface_Skimmer_05DX_Overflow_Boxes_for_Saltwater_Aquariums-CPR-CR20450-FIOF-vi.html

 

Features and Benefits

  • Reduces amount of surface proteins
  • Increases oxygen exchange of the aquarium water
  • Improves the effectiveness of the filtration system
  • CNC routed grates for clean appearance
  • Easily installs onto the back walls of aquariums with a dilled overflow
  • Fully routed grates are closed off on top for increased grate support
  • Available with open back for installation with silicon (Regular unit)
  • Available with closed back for installation with bulkhead (DX unit)
  • *** Users are required to drill an additional bulkhead hole into the DX model`s back wall for installation with bulkhead
  • ***If drilled an additional bulkhead gasket will be needed
  • Dimensions: 6.38" x 2.63" x 3.63"
  • For Nano Aquariums
Edited by ChrisQ

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i made one like this for my new tank. I went toothless so it is quieter and easier to clean. mine is 5.5' long and has three 1.5" bulkeads.

Bulkheads will leak through the threads on any wet side without a gasket so in this instance you only need ONE gasket that is sandwiched between the inner box and outer box. I should have put a brace in thr middle of the back box as it is now bowing..but out of sight out of mind.

I would recommend sch. 80 bulkheads on a big tank. e8cf1e970df2518debac543c8b3b2a66.jpgf22f25c28786653f254f6261468a5289.jpg

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3 hours ago, xmas_one said:

 

Sadly they are moving and wont be shipping until 3/28

I only really need the box without all the extras such as the bit and elbows, the smaller one will cost more then twice what i just paid for the tank and stand. With so many talented people here I've been thinking today about maybe asking some members if they're interested at all in making a small one, after all, my main 5' long tank was made by one of our awesome members.

 

When it comes to the price of the kit, it's still worth it to me in the sense that when i got the tank home and cleaned, leak tested i quickly realized this is a nice tank and abandoned my original plan of a quick and easy method of just simply drilling a hole in it tossing in a bulkhead and upright elbow with a strainer and calling it a day. I'm just very anxious to move my clowns and nems.

 

Thanks for the link!

 

 

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, pdxmonkeyboy said:

i made one like this for my new tank. I went toothless so it is quieter and easier to clean. mine is 5.5' long and has three 1.5" bulkeads.

Bulkheads will leak through the threads on any wet side without a gasket so in this instance you only need ONE gasket that is sandwiched between the inner box and outer box. I should have put a brace in thr middle of the back box as it is now bowing..but out of sight out of mind.

I would recommend sch. 80 bulkheads on a big tank. e8cf1e970df2518debac543c8b3b2a66.jpgf22f25c28786653f254f6261468a5289.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

 

Nice looking tank and good job on that box!

My main tank is a full external beananimal (no inside the tank box) and also runs three 1.5'' drains that are very strong and braced with hangers. Always brace your piping, next time you start and stop your system, pay close attention to your drains and see if they wiggle as they attempt to purge the air. :fingerscrossed: It might be important to note that this project is a addition to the existing system that will receive maybe half the flow of the main system so it should only require a 1'' drain and a 1'' emergency. (30g) cube.

The return pump of the main system is "T" off with two returns feeding the main and a third feeding the cube with both drains (main siphon/cubes main) draining into the same sump chamber. The gate valve on the cube's 1'' main drain seals the deal for equilibrium. This is how i did the hydroponic flood tray i was using to propagate my nems.

 

Toothless would be nice but i could never go that route, i have a sixline that enjoys cruising the front of the weir, two peppermint shrimps that will occasionally go up there at night to snack on bits of algae after they've cleaned out what was left on the algae clip. HAHA! crazy shrimps, they eat all the aiptasia in my tank except for three then develop a taste for nori instead, better then the last pair that decided corals tastes better i guess.

Then there's the joy of chasing a lone unfortunate fish around a crowded overflow box :tongue: My stand pipes are actually not glued for easy access for cleaning.

A turbo/s snail, snails in general that wanders in there and works their way into the drains getting stuck, next thing you know you have half your drain system torn apart stabbing at it with a metal coat hanger. :laugh: True story, actually happen to a member here (sorry Zach) i think its was him anyway.

Edited by ChrisQ

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i lost a small clown through the overflow so I put some eggcrate and then a piece of polycarbonate in there. because it so long, and the flow is laminar over the edge there is only an 1/8" gap or so.. maybe a quarter.

shortly after the install my melaranus tested its function. He flopped up there, then panicked and flopped back.

Now, if i could only find a way to keep my starfish off my closed loop intake....


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1 hour ago, pdxmonkeyboy said:

i lost a small clown through the overflow so I put some eggcrate and then a piece of polycarbonate in there. because it so long, and the flow is laminar over the edge there is only an 1/8" gap or so.. maybe a quarter.

shortly after the install my melaranus tested its function. He flopped up there, then panicked and flopped back.

Now, if i could only find a way to keep my starfish off my closed loop intake....


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You might be able to fashion something like this, I use something similar as a cover during feeding my corals to keep pesky fish away.

IMG_20180317_201648641.jpg

IMG_20180317_201630990.jpg

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One thing to remember about toothless is that the actual thickness of the water entering the weir is very very thin. Thinner than you would think.

I push roughly 3,00gph through my display and that generates less than 1/8" column of water across the top. Plus its absolutely silent. Like dead silent.. the water just runs down the inner wall.

lastly, i forgot to mention.. those bulkheads are not backwards, they are placed that way so you can have a thin inner box... just wide enough to fit the nut of the bulkhead as opposed to the whole deal.

Anyways.. I suppose that if you got the acrylic and beer you could come over and i could make you an overflow.

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17 minutes ago, pdxmonkeyboy said:

One thing to remember about toothless is that the actual thickness of the water entering the weir is very very thin. Thinner than you would think.

I push roughly 3,00gph through my display and that generates less than 1/8" column of water across the top. Plus its absolutely silent. Like dead silent.. the water just runs down the inner wall.

lastly, i forgot to mention.. those bulkheads are not backwards, they are placed that way so you can have a thin inner box... just wide enough to fit the nut of the bulkhead as opposed to the whole deal.

Anyways.. I suppose that if you got the acrylic and beer you could come over and i could make you an overflow.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

Good info there thanks!

 

Also thanks a million for offering to help me build one, :drinking: i can call TAP on Monday and see whats available.

What thickness and roughly how many sheets of what size?

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step one.. avoid tap like the plague except for solvent. Tap plastics charges roughly 4x the going rate on stuff. Its highway robbery..but they have a cute retail store.

Call professional plastics in tualatin.
3/8 black cast acrylic is what you are looking for. How much.. well that depends on what we are making. They are typically about 5" tall and 2" deep (dont know what your plumbing looks like)..

I will be at the meeting tomorrow if you are going.

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Posted (edited)

Still looking for one of these in the first picture. :fingerscrossed:

Pretty much exactly the 2nd one.

Edited by ChrisQ

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