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    • By Sean.G
      So to keep things short my old light (Orbit USA Pro something or the other) broke, salt corroded a wire and I was not able to make a lasting repair on it. I'm trying to find some cheap lighting I can get away with for my ~2 foot cube (Reefer Nano) and I really just want to keep what I already have alive, all softies right now. Ideally I could keep some higher light requirement stuff towards the top of my tank but I'm looking for cheap not perfect. I don't really have a hard price limit, but around $150 is what I am trying to find. I've looked at T5 setups but the price of bulbs and need to replace them relatively often turns me off to them.
      Any advice appreciated.
    • By bamburgb
      Hi Everyone,
       
      So I am in the middle of purchasing a house and am kinda curious as to what people have found the best methods for moving there tanks with minimal stress on the fish and corals? Ill be moving a 180 gallon and also a 30 gallon. what equipment did you find was most helpful in the move? did you save most of the water or start from scratch?
       
      thanks for any advice
    • By Sasquatch
      Signs of zoa stress and how to fix it..
       
      1. Too much light or being trampled by hermits and snails they will close or look squished, maybe bruised. You want to move them to a darker lower spot or on a ledge that a shell cannot travel to easily

      :The red Zoas were in to strong of light and just the centers are showing, the bottom ones are all shut on one side, if these happen rearrange them until they reopen again
      :Either partial shade or lower down than before, sometimes if they reach to tall and look like trumpets it's to little of light. The far right is the same morph in proper lighting
       
      2. Algae can be the death of Zoas
      : you want to put it somewhere snails can graze, and get a clean up crew that eats the algae if you do not have hermits or a Seahare does great with green hair algae.
      : if the CUC isn't touching it, pull the algae out with your fingers if it's long enough, or frag up the zoa and clip off the rock surrounding the polyps till you have separated the polyps from the rock and reglue to a new clean live/dry rock
       
      3. Being stung by coral or worms, Sometimes you get spider webs inside the tank or so etching is eating your Zoas

      :The God or wars (right) are bleached and closed up, maybe have brown or black spots on them from where the Vermitid worm's spider web is stinging them, or maybe it's a sweeper from a coral it will look like this
      : super glue up the source of the spider webs, it should look like a feather duster hole with 2 antennae reaching out, or move the coral or zoa out of sweeping range.
       
      :This photo ^ also shows how I arrange a clear path for hermits to crawl around my Zoas and not over them, steep walls and frags on a plateau will keep them from climbing, but they need an easy route to travel on. (You can see the red skirt Zoas on the left look closed and bruised from being trampled over when the route was clogged with a plug)

      :Overhangs and channels need to be built in between your rockwork, and you can build in fences to make them go around the long way, see the rocks sticking up on the left used to be the climbing path.
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