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nyciachef

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So I am having issues in my tank with low coral growth and dual appearance, also green algae growth. I first lost an sps frag and my lps frags aren’t looking so hot. I have a cheap black box that has been running for about two years, I was thinking, should I swap out LEDS and the driver in that box? Or should I just get two prime hd lights and forget about it. My specs are in line however I don’t have a phosphate test so I am not sure what that is at. Any ideas? Suggestions? General comments? Lol

 

 

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So I am having issues in my tank with low coral growth and dual appearance, also green algae growth. I first lost an sps frag and my lps frags aren’t looking so hot. I have a cheap black box that has been running for about two years, I was thinking, should I swap out LEDS and the driver in that box? Or should I just get two prime hd lights and forget about it. My specs are in line however I don’t have a phosphate test so I am not sure what that is at. Any ideas? Suggestions? General comments? Lol
 
 
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What are the dimensions? I've run everything from.metal halide to LED and honestly T5 does the best for all around coral types for me but I went back to Primes on my current build.
Are the corals bleaching or just melting per say? Bleaching could mean too much intensity.
A prime is good for about 20x20 maybe a little bigger, I run 2 on a 30 gallon nuvo fusion and get great coverage.

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Don't much about different lights but I, too, had bad LEDs in my black boxes with probably a terrible spectrum. Saw something on fb from Sbreeflights. They have replacement PCB boards or something rather which, has great spectrum. I ordered 2 replacement boards, $69 each. Swapped out both boards. Took about 15 minutes to swap one out, basically 2 connectors and that's it. Never been happier. Grows my sps with great spectrum, I suppose. So don't throw in the towel with your old black box, just replace the PCB board...but then again, what do I know, I'm just a BASIC reefer. If you do want to get rid of your black box, lmk, I might take it off your hands. HTH

Sent from my man cave hoping the Dodgers win the World Series [emoji14]

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If you want primes you'd have to buy 2 of them my tank is 36 wide and one definitely wouldn't cut it a42b285382b3ac041978584092e704a6.jpg

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Thank you! I was absolutely planning on two of them but I may try the pcb upgrade that was talked about it


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If it was me well........T5s for the win ;) I am old school and loved MH but people complain of the heat......not so bad really. I run T5s and LEDs over my system and growth is great. I had the AI primes but was not a fan of them. People love tem but just not my thing.

Maybe look for a used ATI fixture.

Good luck in your search and you are going to get a lot of answers on this :laugh: 

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I think [mention=15900]xmas_one[/mention] has a point here. What are the Parameters and you really should get a phosphate test. The other thing I'm wondering is what kind of flow is in this tank, over the last year what corals are growing and which ones aren't?

The tank is fairly new started the cycle in August and populated in October 1.023 salinity, ph 8.2, nitrates 0, water changes weekly, the pictures below are from the 2nd and third week of October right after the frag fest39b1263253e53c673370069f1f869dfe.jpgba250018ccb1f622364c9737605d6a3c.jpgff3ed859269dc2c31dc77bd82cd97500.jpg772329ebd45f5dd4f5d1da1072e4842e.jpgba1acf3174e81b3a18a9138597818ec1.jpg283e7e89a5dcf9d1e1781e043cbf9ff5.jpg
The next set of pictures was taken this morning, I did change out the led board with the sbreeflights mentioned previously in this thread. On the old board there were a dozen browned out LEDS. More Params coming this afternoon.


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IMO, a phosphate test kit really won't do you much good, it will probably show 0, but the phosphates are contained in the algae and won't read out. I think your tank is still cycling and time and patience will win out if you keep up your water changes. You could maybe do 2 water changes a week for a month and see where that gets you? Was the live rock dried rock and did you cure it before it went into the tank?

All that bein said, what % are you running your lights at. In my experience, the higher you have the the whites, the more chance of nuisance algae appears. I run mostly blue on my Mars Aquas and have been pretty darn happy with the results.

hope this helps

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IMO, a phosphate test kit really won't do you much good, it will probably show 0, but the phosphates are contained in the algae and won't read out. I think your tank is still cycling and time and patience will win out if you keep up your water changes. You could maybe do 2 water changes a week for a month and see where that gets you? Was the live rock dried rock and did you cure it before it went into the tank?
All that bein said, what % are you running your lights at. In my experience, the higher you have the the whites, the more chance of nuisance algae appears. I run mostly blue on my Mars Aquas and have been pretty darn happy with the results.
hope this helps

Thank you the tank cycled for quite awhile until all the params came into spec. The live rock was from another tank that I nuked due to majano issues I soaked the rock in vinegar for two days then freshwater with daily changes for two weeks. I run the lights on a long ramp cycle peaking for an hour during the day at 80%white and 100% blues then ramping back down


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7 minutes ago, nyciachef said:


Thank you the tank cycled for quite awhile until all the params came into spec. The live rock was from another tank that I nuked due to majano issues I soaked the rock in vinegar for two days then freshwater with daily changes for two weeks. I run the lights on a long ramp cycle peaking for an hour during the day at 80%white and 100% blues then ramping back down


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Just my opinion, but try maybe turning the whites down a little. Maybe 50%? Let's see if there is a difference with the algae?

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Just now, nyciachef said:


Ok I’ll give it a try. Thank you


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This is all a poke and hope idea, because you may not like the looks of the tank with the whites turned down. Alot of people I know running LEDs are primarily blue, and I am only speaking  from what has worked for my experiences.

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This is all a poke and hope idea, because you may not like the looks of the tank with the whites turned down. Alot of people I know running LEDs are primarily blue, and I am only speaking  from what has worked for my experiences.

It doesn’t matter to me I just want my tank to thrive. And experience is all that’s needed.


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