I would make an effort to submit photos tonight of my tank however it's past its bedtime. Over the last month one of my hammer corals has been partially closed most of the time. I continuously checked my levels to be presented with perfect water parameters. I decided that its best if I give it time. Two weeks have passed now, and most unfortunately my tank has spiraled into bubble algae heaven. I have made 2 attempts to remove it, but even with a siphon hose and a scalpel I cannot get to all of it. Within 2-3 days it completely grows back. Today I came home to find that 2 of my 3 sps frags had closed and changed colors to a more dull tint. My rainbow acropora is turning green and another purple/green frag I have has turned a darker blue. There is no polyp extension. My other large hammer coral was also retracted, with my mushroom corals bleached white instead of its normal flesh color, though the green highlights are still prevalent towards the top. My anemone, or two as it split a month ago, seems unaffected and continues to take up way to much space and sting my zoa's.
My levels, as I said before are perfect under my standards. I am unable to test for phosphates with my current equipment, however I've read elsewhere that bubble algae doesn't need an influx of them to grow.
Alkalinity 7.4 dKH
I have calculated my system water volume with rocks to be 14gal. I've been doing a 5 gallon water change every week since I saw the hammer was closed.
My tank is almost a year old now. I've hit many bumps in the road but this is one that I am clueless to the solution. Photos will be submitted tomorrow around lunchtime. Please help.
My torts have been growing real stringy lately. Anyone know if this is a lighting issue or chemistry? I switched all if my lighting to led, but this was a few years back. My chemistry seams to fluctuate due to an unreliable calcium reactor, but this isn't anything new either. Has anyone else had this problem?
I have three (3) Ecotech Radion XR15 Pro's with RMS (tank mounts), TWO of which are for sale. Thought I would try them here before putting them on R2R. I have only used them for seven months, so they are basically brand new. I can post pics if requested, but I f I remember right the manufacture date for all of them is August 2015. All original packaging included. Just bought a 6 bulb ATI T5 fixture from BRS last night and need to thin out the equipment a bit. I cannot take them off the tank until the new fixture arrives - which should be by Wednesday. I will keep one for a future build. Each light has about 24" of coverage so these could pretty easily light a 48" tank (I have 3 on. 59" tank). They come with the 120 degree optics that I have never used as well. These lights are actually really awesome with unmatched controllability, but I personally prefer the look and results of T5's. Just my personal preference.
I tried to upload a FTS to show coverage, but I kept getting an error message. I can email pictures, but they will just be pictures of new Radions, which can be seen with any Google search. They have never been set above 55% and I still had to be careful not to fry my corals, so they are plenty powerful.
I can share the invoice, which shows I paid $399.00 for each light and $89.00 for each RMS. Would like to sell them together, but this is not a requirement. I'm asking $625.00 for both or $325.00 each. If bought together, that's $349.00 off of what I recently paid. Email Is the best way of contact, but if serious I will send my cell # for texting.
So I am in the middle of purchasing a house and am kinda curious as to what people have found the best methods for moving there tanks with minimal stress on the fish and corals? Ill be moving a 180 gallon and also a 30 gallon. what equipment did you find was most helpful in the move? did you save most of the water or start from scratch?
thanks for any advice
Signs of zoa stress and how to fix it..
1. Too much light or being trampled by hermits and snails they will close or look squished, maybe bruised. You want to move them to a darker lower spot or on a ledge that a shell cannot travel to easily
:The red Zoas were in to strong of light and just the centers are showing, the bottom ones are all shut on one side, if these happen rearrange them until they reopen again
:Either partial shade or lower down than before, sometimes if they reach to tall and look like trumpets it's to little of light. The far right is the same morph in proper lighting
2. Algae can be the death of Zoas
: you want to put it somewhere snails can graze, and get a clean up crew that eats the algae if you do not have hermits or a Seahare does great with green hair algae.
: if the CUC isn't touching it, pull the algae out with your fingers if it's long enough, or frag up the zoa and clip off the rock surrounding the polyps till you have separated the polyps from the rock and reglue to a new clean live/dry rock
3. Being stung by coral or worms, Sometimes you get spider webs inside the tank or so etching is eating your Zoas
:The God or wars (right) are bleached and closed up, maybe have brown or black spots on them from where the Vermitid worm's spider web is stinging them, or maybe it's a sweeper from a coral it will look like this
: super glue up the source of the spider webs, it should look like a feather duster hole with 2 antennae reaching out, or move the coral or zoa out of sweeping range.
:This photo ^ also shows how I arrange a clear path for hermits to crawl around my Zoas and not over them, steep walls and frags on a plateau will keep them from climbing, but they need an easy route to travel on. (You can see the red skirt Zoas on the left look closed and bruised from being trampled over when the route was clogged with a plug)
:Overhangs and channels need to be built in between your rockwork, and you can build in fences to make them go around the long way, see the rocks sticking up on the left used to be the climbing path.