So I'm planning on using a bluefish mini WiFi controller with the mean well ldd-h drivers for my 180 build. The highest amperage driver they have is a 1500mA one. And I'd need more like 4500mA for the Royal blue channel alone. So my main question is, can you run more than one ldd-h driver off of one pwm channel signal so I can get a total of 4500mA, the outputs of the drivers won't be connected in anyway. I tried to draw a basic of what I want to do.
Decided to build my own calcium reactor after doing alot of research on them and ended up with this.I was looking a for a good cost effective build and I really liked the look and simplicity of Geo's reef reactors, but for the size I needed, the price was a bit high, especially since they only came with a.c. pumps. So this one will be able to handle systems up to 300 gallons plus another hundred if a secondary reaction chamber is added onto it. My total cost for everything, including tools and solvent cements was $127.89. (Seems like a pretty good price for a D.C. Calc. Reactor)
Has anybody on here ever grown there own phytoplankton before? I just built a phytoplankton growing station and I've got everything all ready except I'm not sure what to use as fertilizer, I keep seeing something named f/2 which is a specific for marine algae fertilizer. I also see people using miracle grow, not something I would do personally as I don't know the exact ingredients, but some reefers on forums say it's bad because of heavy metals, mainly copper. While doing research I found two separate formulas for the f/2 fertilizer that everyone says to use and both contain copper sulfate?!? That to me seems like that last thing I'd want to put in my tank.... with that being said, anyone know of something different to use as the fertilizer? I was almost thinking of trying a mix of potassium nitrate and some other stuff that would be already used to dose tanks with. I'll attach the formula for the fertilizer that everyone seems to be suggesting to use.
I'm the living embodiment of a DIYer (chicken coop✅, playground ✅, keeping the house from falling down ✅).
I've been really inspired by all the stories on this site and others to take on a new tank setup from the ground up.
So I'm looking for a tank that is at least 60 gal (I'm not stuck on this size and am curious about everyone's thoughts on an ideal size) to begin.
I'd also love to hear recommendations (and horror stories) that might help guide this spring/summer project.
My goal is to build the stand to fit the tank and then add all the equipment and plumbing (slowly since my money tree died). This will be my first foray into sump land. I've used every other type of filter out of fear of all the components involved in a sump, so I'm going to try and overcome that fear.
Thanks for being a great resource and creating such a robust community.
I have been going nuts trying to adjust my bubble count with the Milwaukee MA 957 CO2 regulator. I set the needle valve for a nice even bubble flow, and then later, I have to open it up more for the same flow. This went on several weeks as I tried to adjust the effluent flow, the primary and secondary CO2 pressure gauges, and whatever else I could fiddle with, hoping to get a steady bubble flow. Finally I saw mention of a clogged needle valve and found this instruction:
MA957 Clogged Needle Valve Repair Procedure
Over time dirty CO2 gas flowing through the regulator will start to deposit dust and dirt in the small gas line located inside the needle valve. When these deposits become large enough the gas flow becomes restricted and eventually will stop. When you add more gas pressure, forcing the gas pass the inline restriction, the flow will start back but as the backpressure subsides the gas flow and bubble count will also diminish and will again eventually stop. This yo-yo effect causes the operator to apply even more pressure from the large black main regulator knob (Macro adjustment) until the backpressure is so high that the solenoid will not close, even when power to the solenoid is turned off. This high backpressure in the solenoid piston chamber will allow gas to continue to flow through the regulator dropping the pH to 5.5 causing a catastrophic effect on all biological life in a tank. Field repair procedure - Turn the tank off and take the regulator off the tank. Take the bubble counter off the regulator needle valve. Open the needle valve all the way open by turning the knob counter-clockwise until it stops. Use a 1/16” drill and go through the top hole of the needle valve and drill through the base of that hole until you feel the drill pass through into the main chamber. Drill time is only about 2 seconds at full drill speed. Turn the regulator over and tap the needle valve on a table to knock out the drill filings. Remount the regulator. Note: If 1/16” drill is not available then go to next size which is a 5/64” drill bit.
Eureka, I found the problem. So I drilled out the valve and reassembled. ......Started out fine, but after a short honeymoon, it again slowly shut off the flow of gas. So either I did the procedure wrong, or something else is wrong.
OK, next solution -- install the highly touted CarbonDoser. Should solve my problems, right? Not!!! The used unit I bought for $250 did not work. No gas flow. So I put it into a box and sent it into AquariumPlant.com for repair. Back to manual daily two part dosing. Crapola, solving our country's immigration challenge would be easier than this. FYI, I already know the answer to that problem.