tanktop74 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Are they all created equal? I ordered a true union check valve on amazon.... it arrived today and its a ball check valve. I for one have never seen one like this before.... AND 2nd.... Will i still get enough flow? Should I run it anyway or should I return it and get the much more expensive flapper kind? Thanks for the input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arsonmfg Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 If you need a check valve you need a bigger sump... Plain and simple. It's not in issue of if it will fail it's an issue of when. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishmanmike01 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 If you need a check valve you need a bigger sump... Plain and simple. It's not in issue of if it will fail it's an issue of when. Agreed. Not if but when. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanktop74 Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 Ok so no one else has one on their tanks now? I have always had one as a safety measure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bicyclebill Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 +1 on above. If you're sump can't deal with a power outage, a check valve is a short term bandaid to a bigger problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanktop74 Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 Well i have no idea at this point, the tank is used and came with this set up, just no return plumbing. Just have always had one on my tank. Guess I will just plumb it without and hope for the best. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mandinga Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 (edited) pics? Im using the true union clear PVC swing check valve. If nothing else...looks cool. No complaints from me, been using it for about 14 months and had multiple outages. I dont agree that these are unnecessary, and that a bigger sump is the only answer...For me, my sump is big enough, but I don't want any water coming back to my sump if the main pump fails....my skimmer is oober sensitive to higher than normal water, and will just start overflowing like crazy. Check valve....check! That being said, it would still be impossible to overflow my sump when the check valve fails....because like Arson said, its not if, but when! Edited June 5, 2015 by Mandinga 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanktop74 Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 pics? Im using the true union clear PVC swing check valve. If nothing else...looks cool. No complaints from me, been using it for about 14 months and had multiple outages. I dont agree that these are unnecessary, and that a bigger sump is the only answer...For me, my sump is big enough, but I don't want any water coming back to my sump if the main pump fails....my skimmer is oober sensitive to higher than normal water, and will just start overflowing like crazy. Check valve....check! That being said, it would still be impossible to overflow my sump when the check valve fails....because like Arson said, its not if, but when! Mine looks similar only instead of a flap its a ball in the center that falls down when power goes out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arsonmfg Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 pics? Im using the true union clear PVC swing check valve. If nothing else...looks cool. No complaints from me, been using it for about 14 months and had multiple outages. I dont agree that these are unnecessary, and that a bigger sump is the only answer...For me, my sump is big enough, but I don't want any water coming back to my sump if the main pump fails....my skimmer is oober sensitive to higher than normal water, and will just start overflowing like crazy. Check valve....check! That being said, it would still be impossible to overflow my sump when the check valve fails....because like Arson said, its not if, but when! Bingo! Guess I should of added there's nothing wrong with using one just NEVER rely on one because it will fail at the worst possible time, it's just how things seem to happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishmanmike01 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Bingo! Guess I should of added there's nothing wrong with using one just NEVER rely on one because it will fail at the worst possible time, it's just how things seem to happen. Ain't that the truth. Nothing ever happens until your out of town or at work or some crap. My tank had been up 6 months now, stable. And the one day I travel for work it starts to over heat. Figures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ninjabeaver Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 I have a check on my return...just extra safety I guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Z Reef Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 I used a flapper on my return. I thought the others had metal springs or something so the flappers were the only choice? Definitely get one with unions, I did not do that...and my plumbing is a nightmare if fixes ever need to be made lol. Saving the knowledge for the next big tank build sometime in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombertech Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 The ball type are typical of industrial piping. They work great and you don't have to worry about making a bad seal which causes the check flap to oscillate. I had that happen on my old setup a couple times, again, why we drill siphon breaks or set a nozzle near surface level. If your sump capacity is undersized you can always take into consideration water height on your overflow weir teeth. Lower return flow (if practical) can make 1/2"-3/4" water difference and keep you in the tank. Siphon breaks are a biggie too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanktop74 Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 The ball type are typical of industrial piping. They work great and you don't have to worry about making a bad seal which causes the check flap to oscillate. I had that happen on my old setup a couple times, again, why we drill siphon breaks or set a nozzle near surface level. If your sump capacity is undersized you can always take into consideration water height on your overflow weir teeth. Lower return flow (if practical) can make 1/2"-3/4" water difference and keep you in the tank. Siphon breaks are a biggie too. So if I undersand you, the ball type is a good option and I should just use it. there are not metal parts to it, I took it all apart on my lunch to look. And if my sump is not big enough I will look at the overflow teeth. Also have adjustable return pump so I could lower the amount being pumped in there and use powerheads to increase in take flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombertech Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Bingo! When determining sump turnover all you need is enough flow to maintain temperature in your main tank. 4x is plenty from sump. Get the rest from powerheads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanktop74 Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 Sweet!! Thank you much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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