JManrow Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Anyone who is in the know would know that you have to spend at least 3000 to light your tank for the best PUR. I am very interested in looking into all this, as PUR cannot be measured using a quantum meter that measures PAR. We must rely on Spectrographs. https://orphek.com/understanding-spectrographs-and-chromaticity-graphs/The price range of Spectrometers are very prohibitive ranging in thousands of dollars, https://www.google.com/search?q=spectrometer&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=spectrometer+prices&tbm=shop and cheap models like this are questionable to having any practical use. http://www.teachersource.com/product/hand-held-spectroscope/light-color?gclid=CjwKEAjwiq-oBRC9gvHCsvDdn2cSJACV3DFRf6ogFp42LEVPaslS1eQxpqtLhdchkr3Ww9h_xtNzFBoC9ezw_wcB Having not done a lot of research in this, I am wondering how this can be applied to reef aquarium lighting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The ReefBox Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Unfortunatly I don't have time today to run a nm by nm calculation of PUR/RQE, but to be honest, that information doesn't do anyone a whole lot of good without something to reference it against. RQE is only a small piece of the puzzle, especially considering how similar reef lighting spectrums are these days. To do a true apples to apples compairison you would be factoring diode efficiency (efficacy), power supply efficiency, dimmer efficiency, etc. To help out I did run a quick spectral calc on the OR T247 since I have never seen one done. One thing to note, the majority of users run their fixutres at approximately 100% Blue, 50% White so I ran the numbers to factor this data versus the industry standard of providing spectral information at 100%. You can take this graph and compare it to the relative quantum efficency table provided in my second post if you want to. Based on what you see do you feel the OR t247 is sufficient in coloring and growing corals? Would you change the spectrum? ie remove reds and greens or????? Thanks for your input Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JManrow Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Thank you Matt for posting this.... it makes me feel like we are all on the right track! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softy Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 We'll get there! Hopefully soon there will be a couple custom fixture options out in the wild. Someone in the Portland area gets a really nice prototype next week, can't say who yet. LOL! well I have seen first hand some of your contributions up here.... can't wait to see what you guys came up with now!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombertech Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 Based on what you see do you feel the OR t247 is sufficient in coloring and growing corals? Would you change the spectrum? ie remove reds and greens or????? Thanks for your input Matt Yes, I believe the spectrum is adequate for growing corals, Bo did a good job releasing the fixture he did for the price level it is. I think we’ve seen that enough through everyone’s experience locally. His fixture is designed to fit the largest target audience possible, people dim differently and have different overall light color (kelvin) preferences. There are things that I would change, but, that’s just how I am. I think every fixture on the market currently could be improved upon whether it be through spectrum changes, diode selection, driven current, optics, etc. Those of you that know me, know very well that I am always refining and refining what I would call a baseline. I also want to see lighting taylored more towards the user versus trying to create the one size fit's all fixtures we are so used to with LED. As discussed previously, different corals can have big differences in how they prefer lighting. A lot of it has to do with light penetration in nature. Zoas/chalices for instance thrive in the lower wavelength light, SPS colors up very nicely with a wider range of spectrum. Really, it's going to come down to user preference. Red helps display the red coloration on fish and non-fllourescent pigments such as the red found on pink bird's nest. Green is used for balancing out the purple of the royal blues commonly and adds an ascetic aquamarine hue to the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombertech Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 Thank you Matt for posting this.... it makes me feel like we are all on the right track! That's the hope, now it's up to everyone else to learn/apply the knowledge. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombertech Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 Yes, I believe the spectrum is adequate for growing corals, Bo did a good job releasing the fixture he did for the price level it is. I think we’ve seen that enough through everyone’s experience locally. His fixture is designed to fit the largest target audience possible, people dim differently and have different overall light color (kelvin) preferences. There are things that I would change, but, that’s just how I am. I think every fixture on the market currently could be improved upon whether it be through spectrum changes, diode selection, driven current, optics, etc. Those of you that know me, know very well that I am always refining and refining what I would call a baseline. I also want to see lighting taylored more towards the user versus trying to create the one size fit's all fixtures we are so used to with LED. As discussed previously, different corals can have big differences in how they prefer lighting. A lot of it has to do with light penetration in nature. Zoas/chalices for instance thrive in the lower wavelength light, SPS colors up very nicely with a wider range of spectrum. Really, it's going to come down to user preference. Red helps display the red coloration on fish and non-fllourescent pigments such as the red found on pink bird's nest. Green is used for balancing out the purple of the royal blues commonly and adds an ascetic aquamarine hue to the water. CLARIFICATION: This graph does not take into consideration resent research that Violet/UV actually penetrates water more efficiently than previoulsy thought. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombertech Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 Oh, and for Exodus, who started the last poo storm. Yes, some people do document their progression under LED fixutres. here's one of mine from last year for a BTA I call a Rainbow Inferno. This is one of TheClark's favorites, mine too. I took these pics with my phone over the course of a few months. I'm not a photographer so I only con my wife into taking good pics a few times a year when I think I need them. Here is a 1 year progression prior to the above lighting change: June 2013 June 2014 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The ReefBox Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Oh, and for Exodus, who started the last poo storm. Yes, some people do document their progression under LED fixutres. here's one of mine from last year for a BTA I call a Rainbow Inferno. This is one of TheClark's favorites, mine too. I took these pics with my phone over the course of a few months. I'm not a photographer so I only con my wife into taking good pics a few times a year when I think I need them. Here is a 1 year progression prior to the above lighting change: June 2013 June 2014 You got the name all wrong my friend.......That should be called the bomb!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czreef Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Very helpful info, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjwatson Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 This is article is perfect timing since I'm looking to upgrade my T5 fixture to LED! Thanks so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trigger334 Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) Matt, Maybe you can add PAS to this thread. I've been continually working on my lighting research and have come to some seriously grand conclusions. You also may be interested in some 2014 Apogee research, where they compare LED to MH & HPS light proton output. I found it very interesting that LEDs produce 5-10x more light protons, then MH/HPS. That means, the PAR from these high output options, we used to think of as the best professional grade lighting is not the same as PAR from an LED and how "useful/PAS" light plays into PAR. Interesting work. Totally concerted what I believe about LEDs and how much PAR is needed. It made me stand by what I know even more. Also something to know is that RQE graph is for terrestrial plants, so what can be considered for growth underwater would be different. The Apogee work goes into quality of lighting versus quantity, which is interesting when applying to LEDs. Cheers. Edited June 24, 2015 by Trigger334 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trigger334 Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Here's a recent AA article by Dana relevant to the conversion as well. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2015/4/corals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.