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Fishmanmike's 210gal build!


fishmanmike01

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I have thought of that. Being the display is a 210 with dual overflow and dual emergency drains, I see the chance for 4 pipes all clogging at the same time extremely thin. I'm not stuck on this idea, however I can't see much flaw in it.

 

I see your point with the fuge, however a tank this size with most likely 400+ lb of rock and sand to be determined, I'm not sure what kind of an impact to the pod population that extra 10gal is going to make. I think it's main purpose will be to grow macros for phosphate control.

 

If I'm wrong please call me out. I welcome opinions.

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A 1" drain can do a little under 600 gph. So if you have two 1" drains you'd be about 1200 gph through your primary drains. That would get you up to just under 6x tank volume through the sump. Without using your emergency drains.

 

If you wanted to go up to 10x tank volume through the sump you'd be using all 4 drains. At that time it would only take one of the drain lines becoming clogged before you had water on the floor.

 

If you don't wanna do baffles you could do a reverse float switch on your pump to run it as a kill switch in that event to limit the overflow.

 

If it were my tank I would be worried about the possibility of flood. Not all insurance would cover the damage if you did end up loosing a large amount of watr, it could get pretty expensive.

 

I'm not trying to tell ya what to do, just tryin to help out some from some experiences I have had. Mine wasn't a drain that clogged, it was a bulkhead on the closed loop of my cryptic tank that snapped. But because of my lack of baffles I pumped about 60g of water more then I needed to on the floor. I ended up having to replace the flooring, subflooring, drywall, and getting the vapor barrier on my house repaired. It was much more expensive then one of those little switches would have cost, or even a custom sump with baffles.

 

JME

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Well for the sump turnover you really don't need a lot of flow I would go with less the 5x turnover of the hole system. Give the skimmer/ refugium time to pull the stuff out of the water. My system has about 260/280g and the sump gets feed 800-1000 gph after all the head presher is accountant for.

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You will be surprised how may pods will grow when there not getting eaten lol my 16 gallon outnumbers the pod population in my 200 gallon by like 100 to 1. And if you just want to use socks in the sump why not jus put a baffle at one end to hold the pump and use the rest for the refug 60+g vs 10g which imo on a tank that big you not going to get much filtration out of ten gallons.

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I do have all equipment. I'm using most of the stuff I have from previous tanks.

 

I'm thinking at this point I'm ditching the remote fuge idea and building in sump with baffles. I quess my question was more toward, if I build the baffles for the fuge running from front to back of the sump then all that flow is forced through the fuge on its way to the return section. That seems like alot of flow over a fuge. Would it be better to run a baffle from side to side thus making the front a fuge and the rear a return chamber? Seems this would be a better deal and I could feed the fuge via the skimmer output.

 

The return pump is going to be either an iwaki md55 rtl or a 70rtl. Both are way too loud to be in a stand IMO. I'm playing with the notion of plumbing them through the wall and housing them externally (in a box or something). And foreseeable cons with this idea? Other than elemental exposure.

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I do have all equipment. I'm using most of the stuff I have from previous tanks.

I'm thinking at this point I'm ditching the remote fuge idea and building in sump with baffles. I quess my question was more toward, if I build the baffles for the fuge running from front to back of the sump then all that flow is forced through the fuge on its way to the return section. That seems like alot of flow over a fuge. Would it be better to run a baffle from side to side thus making the front a fuge and the rear a return chamber? Seems this would be a better deal and I could feed the fuge via the skimmer output.

 

I thing both would work 1000gph spread across a 75 would be fine. I have split the the sump long ways to with a cube system I had a year or so ago and as long as your skimmer is small enough to fit that would work great but don't feed it skimmed water the refug really should be feed raw water from the display to get the most out of it. You could feed each side with different drain line and have the refug just overflow to the return section.

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Would your skimmer fit in the 10g?

 

Nice silent return pumps are no longer a myth and can be had for not very expensive these days. I ordered mine online since no local stores carried it and had it to my door for like $110. Might be worth it if your other option is drilling outside and running the plumbing and all.

 

Edit- Added:

 

If your going to make your refugium that large I think the 1000gph running through it is fine IME. Refugiums do fine turning over 20-40x an hour IME.

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I've finally just got the last coat of paint on the stand moves the glass into the house tonight. Exciting times for sure.!

Funny story, tank has been stored under a porch outside filled with water. Shortly after dinner the tank started to make noise. ??? Turned out a frog has called the space between the outer and inner wall of one of the overflows home. Lol. Too funny.

 

 

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C28F9181-1C1D-4A1C-AE70-1B1B1DB958D2_zps

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A 1" drain can do a little under 600 gph. So if you have two 1" drains you'd be about 1200 gph through your primary drains. That would get you up to just under 6x tank volume through the sump. Without using your emergency drains.

1" can handle almost a thousand.

 

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My 1" emergency drain can handle my mag 18 fully open after 4 ninety degree turns and about 5 feet of head height. I have no idea how much flow that actually is.

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Question; (hopefully I can explain this right.)

 

I'm starting work on the plumbing and installed the bulkheads yesterday. One of them in both overflows is a 3/4". That being said, I was wanting to thread to the outside of the bulkhead rather than the inside to gain pipe volume. But now I'm thinking does the smaller diameter of the 3/4 above strictly limit that whole run to whatever a 3/4 can handle? Does an increase in diameter just after the bulkhead help at all?

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It would be limited to 3/4. I'm not sure what that is as a drain, but the calculator I posted a couple posts up can tell you.

 

Most bulkheads are not designed to attach plumbing to the outside, if you go that route make sure the ones you use are. Personally I'd be worried about the noise.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update.

 

Just thought I'd share what I've been up to for the last few weeks. Been working on the plumbing and this is what I have so far.

 

Left side

C08583DE-9DDA-4CCD-80F0-B0C38F959308_zps

 

Center showing the manifold

 

F3161674-B6B7-4EEB-A985-531FC9273DC2_zps

 

And right

 

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I worked out water changes right into my plumbing with this build. I simply open this valve and the sump drains directly into the side yard. The return pump is located under the floor in the crawl space and this drain goes out one of the foundation vents. A line has been plumbed directly from the garage to the sump, all I have to do is plug in a pump and the sump refills.

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