Jump to content

Calcium is UBER high...should I be worried?


Blue Z Reef

Recommended Posts

From what i've read, it's not a huge deal, but I don't want it to keep creaping upwards. I just tested the following (on my 90 gal)

 

SG - 1.025

KH - 9

Ca - 640....DOH!

PH - 8.1ish (between test kits and rkl)

 

All levels tested 2x to be sure. API test kits.

 

My PH seems to fluxuate between about 7.8 to 8.1 from day to night with my sump light on my cheato for most of the night.

 

What i've changed recently is using Aquavitro Salinity salt instead of Kent. I was hoping it would bring my slightly lower PH up and get everything else in check...but it has really brough up my Ca. I did dose recently before the water change some 2 part Brightwell Reef Code, but I always under-dose compared to my water volume (probably should have checked more than PH level but thats in the past lol). I don't recall a reading prior, but I highly doubt it was that high. I don't usually dose, just weekly changes and have Kalk in my ATO water.

 

Tank is mostly LPS and Softies with some SPS (but not a ton, just a few smaller acro colonies and some caps/chalice)

 

Anyone experience this and bring it down? Would increase KH bring Ca down? Leave it or action???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The salt you use isn't gonna change your ph. The salt you use wil effect the cal level though. The higher Cal probably due to the new salt and you should just stop dosing kalk as that can be the problem also.

 

Btw your ph has no affect on your levels. You shouldn't even need to test for ph, it's not an important thing to monitor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did you mix up your salt in the container before you placed it in your mixing barrel? What is your Mg at? If you need to borrow a Mg kit let me know I've got an Elos kit.

 

Are you meaning the actual dry salt? Because I can't really mix that up, it's lose in my 225 gal bucket. I mixed up 15 gallons together in a Brute trash can with MJ and heater for about 2-3 hours prior to addition.

 

Don't have a Mg test kit, I'll borrow it at the meeting this weekend if thats cool.

 

The salt you use isn't gonna change your ph. The salt you use wil effect the cal level though. The higher Cal probably due to the new salt and you should just stop dosing kalk as that can be the problem also.

 

Btw your ph has no affect on your levels.

 

Ok, but not all salts advertise the same PH level. Regardless, my PH was low so I have used Aquavitro Balance to get it up a bit. I'll swap my kalk bucket for an RO only bucket and let things settle down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you meaning the actual dry salt? Because I can't really mix that up, it's lose in my 225 gal bucket. I mixed up 15 gallons together in a Brute trash can with MJ and heater for about 2-3 hours prior to addition.

 

Don't have a Mg test kit, I'll borrow it at the meeting this weekend if thats cool.

 

The salt mix it self just stir it up a little in the container to keep it consistant. I found that out after I got a batch of bad salt a few years back. It killed off quite a few things in my tank and found that my Mg and Calcium were through the roof. I will be in and out all week long so just let me know if you want to grab it before the meeting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using salinity for about a year and noticed I don't need the kalk anymore. It does run a little different than other salt mixes. I mix lower than what it says because it mixes at higher levels. I also let it mix for atleast 24 hours before doing a water change.

 

I was reading about the salt prior to purchase and someone from seachem was posting and said it is best to mix and do a water change in less than 24 hours. Don't remember the exact reason but thats what they said. I think it was in regards to people complaining about cloudy mixes, but it cleared up really nice from the MJ mixing it up.

 

How much are you mixing roughly? I was following the 7 cups for 15 gallons as stated on the bucket. Good to know about the kalk, i'll leave it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As long as your ph dosent drop below 7.65 your fine. As long as your ph doesnt go over 8.5 your fine. That is a pretty broad range so most tank don't go below those numbers.

 

Yes but the ideal level seems to be 8.4, which is seemingly had to do without constant dosing of something to bring it up. I realize you can let it swing around, but the less it swings the better. Only real reason I am watching it is because my RKL is watching it for me lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It does get cloudy but I just turn off my pump a hour before changing water. I mix 30 gallons at a time. I use 13 cups. So I'm omitting 2 cups of mix from the directions. My ph always stays at 8.4 and my calcium reads high. The balance you are using only works for a short fix. I do use all the aquavitro products except for that one. I noticed it mixes better letting it go for Atleast 24 hrs with heater and pump mixing. I always have 30g mixing. So there is time my mix is going for a week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It does get cloudy but I just turn off my pump a hour before changing water. I mix 30 gallons at a time. I use 13 cups. So I'm omitting 2 cups of mix from the directions. My ph always stays at 8.4 and my calcium reads high. The balance you are using only works for a short fix. I do use all the aquavitro products except for that one. I noticed it mixes better letting it go for Atleast 24 hrs with heater and pump mixing. I always have 30g mixing. So there is time my mix is going for a week.

 

I think you mean you leave out 1 cup. I'll try using your mix (and actually test the mix before addition this time) and see how it goes. Are you using 8.4 by seachem to keep the ph there or is it stay by itself? What products do you dose regularly?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont dose for ph anymore. But when I first started I used 8.4 and balance together. After my tank was totally switched over I didnt need to dose anymore. And no I do leave out 2 cups. But I also have a system of almost 300g. So for a smaller set up I would only cut out 1 cup at the most. The only time I dose anymore is if I don't get a chance to do a water change for awhile. If I do dose I use the vibrance, ions, and calcification by aquavitro. I noticed the only way to get the balance and 8.4 to really work is to use them together to stabalize the ph. With patience your ph will balance out and stay at 8.4. It is a awesome salt. I have noticed great growth and nicer colors with my corals since I started using it. Plus my clams are always happy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally i do monitor pH. Depending what my pH swing is via my monitor says I can tell you almost exaclty what my alk is. 8.1-8.3 swing my alk is around 8 if it goes to 7.9-8.1 it is at 6. My swing tells me when to dose. I dont test alk anymore other than to periodically test my theory. But if your pH drops around 7.9 or lower you will almost definitely have low alk. I dont have a sand bed so pH is important to me.

 

If your corals show no distress let it ride. It will get used up. Careful about alk additions as it will be more likely to precipitate. I would chill on further kalk additions until you get the hang of the new salt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally i do monitor pH. Depending what my pH swing is via my monitor says I can tell you almost exaclty what my alk is. 8.1-8.3 swing my alk is around 8 if it goes to 7.9-8.1 it is at 6. My swing tells me when to dose. I dont test alk anymore other than to periodically test my theory. But if your pH drops around 7.9 or lower you will almost definitely have low alk. I dont have a sand bed so pH is important to me.

 

If your corals show no distress let it ride. It will get used up. Careful about alk additions as it will be more likely to precipitate. I would chill on further kalk additions until you get the hang of the new salt.

 

I have to agree with you. I noticed since my ph balanced my alk stays at 9. I noticed my corals seem a lot happier since the alk and ph are balanced.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont dose for ph anymore. But when I first started I used 8.4 and balance together. After my tank was totally switched over I didnt need to dose anymore. And no I do leave out 2 cups. But I also have a system of almost 300g. So for a smaller set up I would only cut out 1 cup at the most. The only time I dose anymore is if I don't get a chance to do a water change for awhile. If I do dose I use the vibrance' date=' ions, and calcification by aquavitro. I noticed the only way to get the balance and 8.4 to really work is to use them together to stabalize the ph. With patience your ph will balance out and stay at 8.4. It is a awesome salt. I have noticed great growth and nicer colors with my corals since I started using it. Plus my clams are always happy.[/quote']

 

Excellent, thanks for the heads up. I'll have to pick up 8.4 if I can find it. I had used it in the past but ran out and my LFS didn't carry it. They carry Vitro stuff now, but were out of 8.4.

 

Personally i do monitor pH. Depending what my pH swing is via my monitor says I can tell you almost exaclty what my alk is. 8.1-8.3 swing my alk is around 8 if it goes to 7.9-8.1 it is at 6. My swing tells me when to dose. I dont test alk anymore other than to periodically test my theory. But if your pH drops around 7.9 or lower you will almost definitely have low alk. I dont have a sand bed so pH is important to me.

 

If your corals show no distress let it ride. It will get used up. Careful about alk additions as it will be more likely to precipitate. I would chill on further kalk additions until you get the hang of the new salt.

 

Yeah, i've already pulled the kalk from my ATO and switched to RO water. I haven't noticed any issues with my corals lately, i'll just keep an eye on everything with the new swap. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It doesn't. Alk doesn't follow ph.

CO2 in the water determines the ph. The equilibrium noted for the calculator refers to the point at which the water is in equilibration with the CO2 level in the athmosphere surrounding the tank. Temperature and athmospheric pressure play a role too but generally the CO2 in the athmosphere is about 390ppm by volume and so it is in natural seawater where the equilibrium is around ph 8.2 and dkh 7. Athmosphetric CO2 varies some seasonally as plants live and die. In a clsoed room salt mist and relative humidity can play a role too. Overall CO2 is believed by some to be increasing the athmosphere and is at the center of global warming discussions.

The ocean's CO2 level is in equilibrium with the athmosphere ;no so in many tanks since these closed systems often don't have enough surface area to interact with the air around them adequately and instantaneously .House air is often higher than fresh air in CO2 too. CO2 is also added to the closed space of a reef tank by organisms respiring.

The opposite can also happen . In a tank with high ph the CO2 is lower than the athmospheric CO2. This can happen when oxide is dosed or when heavy photosynthetic activity uses up CO2 faster than it's coming in bringing the level in the tank down and the ph up.

 

All this is documented in the reef keeping society

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alk (carbonates) is your buffer system. Buffer system affects pH.

 

Scroll down to the part showing relationships between calcium, alk and pH. Different pH values will have different calcium and alk values respectively. Low pH values = lower calcium and alk values. Its a basic buffering system

 

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-04/rhf/feature/index.php

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also taken from previous article

 

"Within the pH range of most reef tanks (up to about pH 8.5 or so), the amount of carbonate present is approximately linear with the hydrogen ion (H + ) concentration because of the relationship seen in equation (5). So if the pH rises from 7.5 to 8.5, there is approximately a ten-fold increase in the carbonate concentration. From pH 8.0 to 8.5, the increase in carbonate is about threefold."

 

Carbonate is alk. Carbonates go up, pH goes up

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...