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QT Tank Questions


Toby Flenderson

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The **** hit the fan in my tank the other day. All my own fault, i stirred up the sand bed in my refugium while removing it and caused an ammonia spike. This took out my large lawn mower blenny, and my hippo tang all of a sudden has ich spots. Yikes. This is the first time dealing with ich. Ive read a lot and i still have questions. My immediate plan is to remove the tang and put him in a 40 gallon QT in hypo salinity. Questions: I don't have a sponge filter that has been in my tank for longer than 3 days, how to i get my fish in QT without killing it when the tank cycles? I have a HOB filter for the 40 gallon tank but it is rated for 20 gallons. Does this matter?

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Youve got to go slow when chsnginf salinity, the filters shpuld be seficieunt when i have done it, i always do just some cotton carbon and weekly water changes sometines more often, if you can id empty all the fish or its doomed to jump to them next and only take a longer to cure the tank, yoy have to cure the tank as well or its an endless cycle andbthe only way in a reef is running it fallow from what ive read, ive been there before it sucks, last occurance was a potters angel :/. Lost her in qt tho, did cure the clowns she infected tho, this is prior to my new build. I need to re set up a full time qt myself for the new arrivals i dont want to do this again.

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just went thru the same thing ( ich ) luckly had a filter I could use. Get a larger filter put the media that you have in it to seed the new one.. imho its what I would do with what you have to work with.. If need be, I could house it for you til you get yours up and running (Hate to say it you might loose it any way but, sometimes something is better than nothing) .. fully cycled QT tank. (lost several fishes b4 I could get them all out of the infected tank very sad (they will be sorely missed).. but saved quite a few(bright spot)

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You can keep alive in QT that hasn't been cycled but you will need to check ammonia daily and be prepared to do 50% water changes if ammonia levels increase. About five years ago I did hypo treatment in un-cycled 40B with two angels, one large tang and two clowns, but it was a huge pain. Due to the load, I was doing 50% water changes every day for about three weeks. I also treated with Amquel plus to help detoxify the ammonia. You will also need to buffer the water to keep PH up with lower salinity.

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Youve got to get them out, so the ich thats potentially in rock and sand doesnt continue reinfecting them in display, as well so more water changes helps that cause too in display, just make sure you keep it between 1.01-1.008 or ive heard no results will be seen but thats reefcentral hearsay. Which i try to.follow, make sure they eat just as healthy too

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And stress may not be good for the fish Noob' date=' but ich is a parasite they have in them, pretty sure stress is a little better then having plague preportions of parasites eating their gills and lesving it to take the other fish. Imo[/quote']

 

I realize what it is. I've been able to kick ick many times in the past without having to go to these extremes. A happy well fed fish is the only route i would go. There are so many different ideas on a cure for this and so many threads online that everyone will have their own opinions on it. Good luck. Hope your fish make it

 

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"potentially in rock and sand" if one has it it's in the tank rule is my understanding... also from reading up on it takes like 11 months run its course b4 for it dies out.. idk, unless you QT the whole LS and let the tank lie fallow for 8 to 10 weeks ( sry can't spell sometimes deslexia doing my best to be helpful) see http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2041951 Lots of responces.. just know that I got my fish out as soon as I could and used hypo and they stopped dying.. what I saved are happy and healthy now.. ask Kimberlee she has a good link to a better thread. I read it and followed what it said to do and it saved my fish. Thank you Kimberlee

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I realize what it is. I've been able to kick ick many times in the past without having to go to these extremes. A happy well fed fish is the only route i would go. There are so many different ideas on a cure for this and so many threads online that everyone will have their own opinions on it. Good luck. Hope your fish make it

 

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thats not kicking ick, your making your fish live with a parasite. kinda cruel? thats not a cure, thats not doing anything. he asked for help in curing it

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OK, now im more confused.

I can put them in the fresh QT but if i dont have a cycled filter i have to do up to 50% water changes for 8 weeks? not going to happen.

I could leave the fish in the tank and hope for the best and feed well. Doesnt really seem like a real plan.

What about putting the fish in the new QT with some LR from my sump and a power head?

Also, it does seem like if it is in the tank now than its in for good unless i take out all fish and quarentine at the same time.

This is not good

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thats not kicking ick' date=' your making your fish live with a parasite. kinda cruel? thats not a cure, thats not doing anything. he asked for help in curing it[/quote']

 

not trying to battle with you but didn't you cycle your tank with fish?(scratch) sounds pretty cruel to me too.

 

 

Back to the topic though.

 

If you move some of the rock along with water for a few days then move the fish to qt might be a good option. I wouldn't think you would need to change water for eight weeks every day but likely every couple days.

 

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live rock will only foster the ick causing it to be longer, you could take them all out go bare bottom and copper route as well but will still run into almost all the same problems either way alot of water changes will be in order to maintain water quality

 

or you can go derbirds route take to coral out and hypo the display i believe it worked for him i never checked in on the final results

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okay will do the best that I can .. #1 leave your fish in the tank.. fish that live will build up immunity to ich and live thru it.. tank still will have ich for about 11 months ( they may lose that imunity to ich at some point an start the whole cycle over.. and you can't always see it. sometimes just lives feeding off the gils assumiing that you put no more new fish in the tank) that it takes to run its cycle... #2 put them in QT with hypo ( 1.10 to 1.16 sg then raise slowly) for about 8 +- 2 wks no LR fish only.. leave DT fallow ( no fish lr and coral only) (time depends on temp hotter + faster cyle for ich) #3 put in hsp tank with copper )1-2 weeks DT still has ich may or may not show up again for months maybe never) (never put these meds (copper ect in DT).. meds ect but hosp tank forever condemed to fish only no lr ect .. ( and all equipemnt used condemed) big pain.. this is my understanding of the 3 main modes of how to treat it.. ask kimberlee for the links take about 1-2 hrs to read them. let the flamming begin

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in a nut shell thats the plan ive heard 6 weeks of fallow is around 50% chance, 8 weeks is 95% and 10 weeks is 99% but there is always the one percent chance, but once again thats read of reefcentral who knows what whos talking about on the internet anyways. study the parasite is the best to learning to rid/kill it. and like re run said keep it hot around 80 er so to speed up the life span of the ick, nothing kills the ich while its on or in the fish it dies one its its exsposed to the water on outside wether it be hypo or copper

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okay will do the best that I can .. #1 leave your fish in the tank.. fish that live will build up immunity to ich and live thru it.. tank still will have ich for about 11 months ( they may lose that imunity to ich at some point an start the whole cycle over.. and you can't always see it. sometimes just lives feeding off the gils assumiing that you put no more new fish in the tank) that it takes to run its cycle... #2 put them in QT with hypo ( 1.10 to 1.16 sg then raise slowly) for about 8 +- 2 wks no LR fish only.. leave DT fallow ( no fish lr and coral only) (time depends on temp hotter + faster cyle for ich) #3 put in hsp tank with copper )1-2 weeks DT still has ich may or may not show up again for months maybe never) (never put these meds (copper ect in DT).. meds ect but hosp tank forever condemed to fish only no lr ect .. ( and all equipemnt used condemed) big pain.. this is my understanding of the 3 main modes of how to treat it.. ask kimberlee for the links take about 1-2 hrs to read them. let the flamming begin

 

Bam! That's the post that made things a bit clearer. Thanks. I'm going to do some reading and make a game plan.

Out of curiosity if I were to take all my fish out, what size tank would I house them in. Medium yellow tang, blue tang, small coral beauty, three percs, scooter Benny and a bi color phuetochromis?

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geesh, really the only thing that needs much more then 40-60 would be the blue hippo and thats down to size, how big is he? just know if its uncycled and all of them are in there ****s going to be popping out and ammonia is going to be shhoting up,be prepared with buffers, esp with tangs IMO they poop more then any other fish hahah. a problem you might run into is aggression from lack of home if you want to put some pvc or something in your qt so they dont fight, theyre probbably going to have to re dominate the pecking order. for the lack of homes etc. honrestly you could do it in the 40b but [language filter] thatd be alot alot alot of work and you might loose a few

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Medium yellow tang, blue tang, small coral beauty, hard choice.. whee woo whee woo tang police... should be in min 120 gal IMHO.. but they may make it in a 40 for a few weeks...as far as I'm concerned.. hypo is the only way to beat this with out killing the rest of your tank... got the same answer out of the LFS as to garlic and feeding cost me $200 in fish. It treats the symtoms and not the cause... just because I beat i once does not make me an expert.. but I listen to to them.. saved my a** a couple of times on other things.. okay flaming can continue... We really need a sticky that covers all of this.. if there is one there Im sry didn't see it forgive me..

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Medium yellow tang, blue tang, small coral beauty (smooth sided / or small scales hardest to save). put your seeded filter in a bigger one to seed that one.. helps a lot bb QT I now have a 40 gal qt with 40 gal sump run phosban to help with ammonia carbon ect.. ( that worked for me had a brown algea out braek as the tank cycled but didn't lose and fish to it) pm me can send details or come over and help.. still heart broken over the ones I lost...

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feel the same, and re runs right if you can make system bigger, dont think tank think rubbermaid!!!! or even could plumb too together like he said though angels and beuaty are in most ****. my first timne dealing with this my clowns never got it, second time while they were waiting to go into 65 display a potters gave them ick then died causing the stress on me to cure my favorite fish and only badass survivor from original outbreak

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