TheGooseWhisperer Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 When i first setup my tank my zoas and pallys were growing like weeds. There was about a year of semi-neglect, but now I am on top of things again and have been for several months. I've gotten to 10-15% WCs every 10/11 days, keeping alk dialed in at 8/9 pretty constantly and been really good about topping off daily. Nitrates always test at zero too. My mushrooms, Kenya trees and toadstools are showing consistent growth, but the zoas never came around. The only additives I have every used are calcium and super dKh. Should I be adding iodine and strontium for a softies dominated tank? Trace elements? Something else? I'm not looking for rampant growth, but a new polyp here and there would be nice to see:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fpd4308 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I always add iodine and strontium. Pretty much the only thing i add. The iodine in salt mixes gets used up very fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stylaster Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 ive been doing just 10% water changes every other week in my zoa tank and been feeding DT's phytoplankon, ive been getting pretty good growth rates. I thinking that a lot of zoanthids are absorbers of things out of the water column. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold B Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Have you changed you bulbs lately? Plus 1 on weekly 10% WC's. Thanks Harold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGooseWhisperer Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 ive been doing just 10% water changes every other week in my zoa tank and been feeding DT's phytoplankon' date=' ive been getting pretty good growth rates. I thinking that a lot of zoanthids are absorbers of things out of the water column.[/quote'] I fed Reef Nutrition Phyto for about a month. I used the bottom of the range (1 drop per gallon) and didnt notice any changes, but I though algae growth was starting to come on so I stopped. Lately Ive been thinking though that feeding a larger amount less frequently might be more effective. I was also considering trying RN Roti-feast or Oyster-feast. Any thoughts on that? As for bulbs, I got a new XM 10k bulb (175W), but the darn thing wouldnt light half the time (icecap ballast that would light the previous XM 20k bulb 100% of the time) so I grabbed an off brand 20k bulb that Nick recommended. I would have gotten another XM, but I was headed out of town and for awhile and needed to get something ASAP. Basically the MH bulb is pretty new. I guess the other thing is I have cut down on feeding the fish to like twice a week, so perhaps elements are fine, but I'm running pretty nutrient deficient. Fish are a small percula, wathcman goby, 6 line and a dwarf cherub angel. I feed a mix of cyclopeeze, chopped mysis, brine shrimp and formula one with garlic added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stylaster Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 ya the dts i only do once a week is all. As for the oyster feast and roti that would be better target fed for the zoas that will take food. I know most palys will take stuff all the way up to mysis shrimp size. Most of my zoas though wont feed, even if a lay it right on them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGooseWhisperer Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Do you feed during light hours or after lights out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stylaster Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 when the lights are on, usually in the morning before i head to work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGooseWhisperer Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 Rut-roh! Just checked my salinity for the first time in far too long and it was 1.020. Sounds pretty low to me. I checked the SW I got from my LFS and it measured out at 1.020 also, so I guess it could just be that my Sp. Grav instrument is out of whack. Next time I pick up water I will have them test it and then check against mine when i get home. I see peeps talking about 1.024-1.025 in SPS tanks...does that go for softies as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stylaster Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 yes i run all my tanks at 1.025 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newfisher Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Mines at 1.026, water changes 20% every other week, no dosing, overskimming, lots of fish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGooseWhisperer Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 After being really ontop of my weekly WCs, alk and salinity and seeing no changes I started feeding a fairly heavy dose of phyto once a week (about twice the recomended dosage). 2 weeks later I started dosing iodine and Strontium/Molybdenum. Within 2 days I noticed significant improvements in my zoa colonies.... My RPEs were getting blotchy coloration and it is now filling in. Eagle eyes have a deeper red appearance. A mixed colony of fire and ice and greenbay packers really inflated and a couple previously elting polyps are healing. faded colonies of a pink/lavender/grey colony are coloring up and open alost all the tie now (had been more like 50/50 open before) Just thought i would share... oh and the salinity was actually not any issue...just miscalibration. i double checked against others and y tank is at 1.024 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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