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Nyles

Experienced help required.

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what i recommend is doing kalkwasser topoff i have alot of kalkwasser you can borrow and use that to keep you ph up i think the swing is whats making the sps angry call me ill pm you my number btw what test are you using? ive used salifert and ap they always are right on

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did 20% WC at about 3pm?. ph 8.2 all night, and 8.2 this morning... Cheesy AP ph kit, ordering a ph probe (pinpoint) in a few days most likely.

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Thanks drock, I read that, and you had a post at RC to I believe regarding it. I had a few things happening and combo'ed together caused the issue (I believe), I think part of it is the salt does not buffer the ph very well, but also I had a couple other things pushing it down as well.

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100% getting the monitor, and probably next month the controller, I simply cant rely on others to take care of my tank while I'm gone, this will help document ph much easier than a test sample by being able to record the ph swing for the whole day realtime onto a log document in its memory and via web browser. This also gives me a much better idea of whats going on, and I can be on business and be assured my tank is doing great, and if not have the ability to have some control over whats happening.

It can be programed to shut lights if tank gets to hot, it can shut down cal reactor if ph drops to low, and it can be programed to dose kalk if ph drops to low, and control the top off. Another fun gadget... lol

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One problem the salt manufacturers have with making a mix that is great for everybody; everybody has different needs from their salt mix. If you are fish only, how much calcium do you need? If you have a heavily stocked SPS tank that is eating up magnesium like candy, how much more Mg do you need than the fella with the fish only? In talking with customers recently, I have begun to believe that the best salt would be the one that was a little low in some levels but cheap and consistant. This way you could add what you need and not get any surprises. We have been adding Mg and Ca to our waterchanges for some time. Maybe we should be looking for a salt that is easy to suppliment, rather than one that tries to be all things to all people. R2R2

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arnt those like 800 bucks??

 

They are not cheap, I guess its all dependent on what its worth to you. I guess if you have a smaller tank it seems like alot, but if you have a larger tank with lots of corals, its a no brainer.

 

Do the buckets of OPP that you are using have a batch number?

 

If so post it and lets see if theres a connection!

I had a bucket that worked fine and the new bucket, not sure what one is what, I think #F-28 was the bad and the good was #A-70

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Controllers may seem expensive initially, until you lose $800 in livestock because you didn't have one. We're used to just having the Neptune and Octopus brands in the states, but I've seen several others, some from EU, popping up recently. Any thoughts?

 

also, wondering on the significance of std. vs. lab-grade probes....thoughts?

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Update, the tank is on the uphill to health, its starting to look good, most birdnests lost some flesh but all should recover other than a single ora green birdsnest, a pricillipora, and a tort. Three losses Isnt terrible I guess, Im kinda mad about the tort it was my second coral ever purchased.... at least I have my first still.. LOL.

 

I just picked up anoth bucket of the red sea coral pro, it seems to be doing to trick, PH has stabolized and I ordered a new pinpoint ph monitor today, now I will be gearing up for frag trades, most stuff is spoken for but I have a few more cool stuff I would be willing to trade, Im waiting for some cool offers on something nice to trade...

 

What I have left for trade is a frag of enchinopora (green) as shown in my link at the bottom it will be about 4"X4" (the one shown is about 12" square) and also a frag 1/4" x 1/2" of superman soloman island danae I am fragging for fly so speak before I frag because its not coming out twice.

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Update, pretty much lost the green w/ purple rim table monti, but I can say with confidence that the salt was not the problem. I changed out the filters and di beads in my ro/di even though the tds meter reads 0-0.01 and that seems to have fixed the issue, the filters where 11 months old and the di beads where changing rapidly from green to brown. So I guess next year I will change it all out at 10 months to be safe. LOL.

 

So I have been using the ocean pure salt in my nano with nothing but good results, and been using red sea pro in the big tank and have started (last 2 changes) mixing ocean pure 50/50 with the red sea product. Seem to give same results. I just wanted to clarify the salt Scenario up that I was hypothesizing on.

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thats a realy nice tank, sorry abought your loss and im glad things are getting back to normal in your tank. love the shot with your little one on the chair in front of the tank.

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Thanks! Nitrates are gone now but still getting RTN on both my pink birdsnests... does not make much sense to me, but everything else is looking wonderful. Hopefully get some new shots soon. I have learned that with the thick 5/8" glass thats bowed I am limited to the direction I can zoom full and shoot... Oh well, looks like a new tank won't be as far off as I initially thought, whats a 225 starfire glass tank run these days? Cheap Im sure.. lol. Regardless Im just happy most my problems are gone, since my last post I managed to infect my tank with Red bugs and with the generous help of others on here put everything in QT and kill the red bugs, I think the stress from moving all the corals to qt and now back has probably done it (light changes) But hey, life goes on!

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