tanktop74 Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Ok The tank build is coming together....(clap) The stand frame is being built as I type, hoping to have that very soon. We are having the steel frame with a wood skin built. So as soon as the frame is done the real plumbing will begin. Today my good friend Isaac painted the back of the tank for me. (Thank you Isaac!! You did a great job and it was nice chatting with you this afternoon!) It is now drying, I will pick it up tomorrow! And I began the plumbing of the tank. Below is my manifold, although I would still like to pick Alex's brain! (ALEX, Call me!) Let me try to explain where they are going, the center pipe going straight up will go to a 3/4" seaswirl if I choose to use it. The left and right will both be my returns on either side of the tank. I am planning on using lock lines on both sides so that I may have more control in directing the flow. Any thoughts?? See anything that doesn't look like it will work?? Have I missed anything yet??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smann Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 The only thing I see, after doing two manifolds with Reeflo pumps is I would do the 2" on the intake for sure, bulkhead,etc and 1 1/2" or whatever it is on the riser as far as you can before you reduce and split the runs. I don't recognize the fittings at the pump, they look like a type of union, if not unions on both sides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendaroo Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 You know I'm an AIO person and have no idea about plumbing, but I'm so excited for this tank!!! Can't wait to see your light... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Agreed with Steve! You want to run a 1.5" 4 way(cross) as well. Then neck down to 1" Otherwise you're killing the flow. Is that a blackfin? How many GPH? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanktop74 Posted December 23, 2010 Author Share Posted December 23, 2010 I see what you are saying with the intake, that won't be reuced afterall, Isaac is getting me a 1.5" bulhead for the intake. So I should raise the manifold higher up, closer to the returns? Would it help if it was 1 to 2 feet higher? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 I would do True Union Ball Valve on both ends of the pump to clean it if needed of if yo uhave to replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 for the return I would run 1.5" all the way to the top of the tank, 90 elbow to the cross, reduce to 3/4" for the SS and then feed the other 2 returns spanning across the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smann Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 I would at least run it up to the base of the tank if that works with your layout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smann Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 for the return I would run 1.5" all the way to the top of the tank' date=' 90 elbow to the cross, reduce to 3/4" for the SS and then feed the other 2 returns spanning across the top.[/quote'] Yep, agree here, keep the larger as far as you can. You can always valve back but you cant add flow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanktop74 Posted December 23, 2010 Author Share Posted December 23, 2010 I would do True Union Ball Valve on both ends of the pump to clean it if needed of if you have to replace it. The pump came with Unions, so I can just unscrew it there at the pump very easily. And I will have a ball valve between the sump and pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Yep' date=' agree here, keep the larger as far as you can. You can always valve back but you cant add flow![/quote'] Yep, agree here I have one on both right after the pump to reduce the amout of water on the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatguy559 Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 agreed with everyone else run it to the top of the tank use one of these http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-4-ways-side-outlet-Ts and the step it down from there. you can have a 1.5" valve then 2 1" valves across the top for either side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Get rid of those cheap ball valves. It is *absolutely* worth the extra money to get decent quality ball valves. True union if at all possible. Cheap plumbing is a tool of the devil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanktop74 Posted December 23, 2010 Author Share Posted December 23, 2010 Get rid of those cheap ball valves. It is *absolutely* worth the extra money to get decent quality ball valves. True union if at all possible. Cheap plumbing is a tool of the devil. what is the advantage of a True Ball Valve versus the ones I bought today? I have used the same ones on my other tanks with no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefnjunkie Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Andy may have meant gate vale, if not, I would recommend a gate vave, it allows for more precise reduction-more money but well worth it! Abd the site thatguy had the link to is the one I was talking about eralier-if possible stay away from 90 degree angles-more restrictive when it comes to water flowing, which means less pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smann Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 You might want to take a look at Spaflex, I'm really happy with it so far especially when I made some changes to the returns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 I run the true union ball valve at both ends of the pump so I can shut the water off at both points and then I only have to worrine about the water in the pump not about all the water in the lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassi Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 what is the advantage of a True Ball Valve versus the ones I bought today? I have used the same ones on my other tanks with no issues. They ones you bought will work perfectly. Save the money for more unions in case. Gate valves are good for skimmers and reactors where you need to to set them precisely and to adjust frequently (GFO is a classic case). But for returns, you just set them once and if you planned the plumbing well they should work "all open". If money aren't an issue, then I agree: all true union valves and all schedule 80 (wife)(wife)(wife) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefnjunkie Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 this was more in line of what I was explaining today; The Elkhead; http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Manifolds or a distributor; http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Distributors What you have looks good Beth, its a shame we dont have places like "flexpvc.com locally-(laugh) edit-LOL My reference to the gate valves were at the SS end to adjust the amount of flow going into the SS-Its how I will be settingmine up, but there are many ways to skin a cat-you can use Rainbows, Unicorns, or -oops sorry dont tunze me bro. Coming along nicely Beth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassi Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 I use a distributor too. The shipping and handling is expensive with flexpvc. It i possible that you can find this stuff locally, they are used to heating systems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefnjunkie Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 I use a distributor too. The shipping and handling is expensive with flexpvc. It i possible that you can find this stuff locally' date=' they are used to heating systems[/quote'] +1 for the distributor than run spa flex tubing to the ball valve and the SS-with a union right after the return and before the intake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 No, I meant Ball Valves. The cheap ones will jam up over time as crud builds up inside them. Come on by my place and try and turn *my* 4 year installed cheap ball valves, then compare that to my 4 year old good quality ball valves. Decent quality ball valves, preferably ones with teflon seats, will last forever and will be as easy to open/close five years later as the day they were installed. The difference in cost now will be small, but if you have the tank up for more than a year or two your future self will be much happier. If it makes the extra cost easier to swallow, buy threaded ones and you can use them for the rest of your life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smann Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 I use a distributor too. The shipping and handling is expensive with flexpvc. It i possible that you can find this stuff locally' date=' they are used to heating systems[/quote'] I bought 50' online also but I don't remember where, I dont recall the shipping being a big issue. Home depot sells 1" and up, I found 3/4" at George Morlan so I would think a supplier in town would also have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanktop74 Posted December 23, 2010 Author Share Posted December 23, 2010 Thanks for all the input! Grassi lets talk when you have time. Thanks Brad for the links! I will take a look! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emerald525 Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 We have a steel stand! We are cool! Christmas came early again! I love the steel stand we picked up tonight from Davey Jones!(clap)(clap) Oh yes we are cool!(clap)(rock2)(cheer)(yahoo) I can't wait and see the wood skin you are going to build around it Dave! Also thanks Roger and Jadams for loading the tank into my car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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