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A few corals not doing well


Napzard

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New tank less than 6 months old. Nothing has died until now. 55 gallon, 10 gallon sump. Aqua C Urchin skimmer. Water test @ LFS done 1.5 weeks ago showed all numbers good. alk 8. I give it microbe lift and coral vit every week or so.

 

Put in a sailfin tang 2 weeks ago, he got Ich this Sunday. And in a blind rush I went out and bought some rid ich(I realized I shouldn't have done this after I put 5 tsps in). My stupid non researching dumb self. Anyways, the corals are doing real bad now. The zoas are still ok, scoly is ok for now, but my chalices...and other pieces no so good

Saturday

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This morning

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Since realizing my mistake. I did a 30% water change a few hours after dosing the rid ich. Followed by another 30% last night, and 30% this morning. Added another filter sock into the sump filled with 1 cup of carbon on Sunday right after the water change.

 

Question, is this tank forever doomed? Do I need to start over since I read copper stays on the live rock, sand, etc.

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If it is a copper based med...yeah more than likely...you might find someone who is switching to fowlr an possibly trade the rock to em but other than that i dunno dude.

Can you do me a favor, I know you live a little ways away. Can you come over here and kick me in the ***, I won't retaliate I promise.

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Mix up some new water and start doing WCs. Add some more carbon, 1 cup isn't enough to absorb that stuff.

 

Those are goners it looks like, but even a tiny speck of flesh can grow into a colony so don't toss them yet. Concentrate on getting that stuff out of the water column.

 

I don't think you put so much of the medicine in that all your rock is toast. Especially since the med hasn't been in your tank for very long.

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I would set up a QT tank and put fresh salted water in it and transfer only the corals to it, when doing it have a 5 gallon bucket of new saltwater to rince off the corals before putting them in the QT tank. Possably would get a good 2 or 3 lb piece of LR to add to the QT tank aswell. Then do MANY waterchanges to the 55, and when you think you have it all, do a couple moor water changes. Wait a day or two between each water change to let the copper leach out of the rock as much as posable between changes. Then add one piece of coral back into the tank and if it dose well then add another, slowly add them back. Oh and yes as long as there is a small amount of living flesh on the coral, it will come back.

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you need to run carbon for sure, but that will not remove the copper and other metals. i would try cuprisorb by seachem, its specifically designed to remove copper out of the water collum. I to would also setup a temporary hospital tank using cycled water from an LFS and transfer all your coral into that tank until you can get all the copper out of your tank. You will need to get a test kit as well for copper.

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Does Rid ich contain copper? I checked the web and I don't see copper listed as an ingredient.

 

 

 

Specifications

Contains formaldehyde (11.52% formalin) U.S. P. grade 4.26% and premium quality aquaculture-grade zinc-free chloride salt of malachite green 0.038%. The ingredients meet United States Pharmacopoeia science-based quality standards for health care. The U.S. P. is the official public standards-setting authority for all prescriptions and over-the-counter medicines and other healthcare products.

 

Here is the link http://www.novalek.com/kordon/ridich/index.htm

 

 

I know these meds will kill some corals, however it is not necessarily as bad as you are thinking. If it had enough copper to forever effect your set up I would think the zoas would probably be toast, but it sounds like they are fine. Definitely use the carbon as recommended by reefit, but don't give up all hope just yet. You may have a healthy system again before you know it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I forgot to post this but yes thanks Gill for lookin that up. Here's a response from the manufacturer:

3At 08:35 PM 12/21/2010, Robert Rofen wrote:

No Kordon treatment -- chemical or organic herbal -- has copper in it. *Copper is toxic to fish and reef invertebrates at 5 ppb (parts per billion) according to the latest test results scientifically published on it. *While still used by veterinarians in fish health treatments, it is understood that it has to be used with great care, and not with any invertebrates present (such as coral, anemones, live rock, shrimp).

 

As for Kordon Rid-Ich+, your water changes done daily at a generous 30% should be sufficient under correct circumstances.. *There is no need to start over with a brand new sand bed or inert rock, although Rid-Ich+ will kill organisms in "live rock.". *As for coral and the live rock, Rid-Ich+ can kill these organisms, and it is recommended not to have them in the same water as being treated for fish diseases. *For further information please go to www.kordon.com. *Click on the Kordon-with-fish tab at the top of the page. *On the Kordon page scroll down under KORDON PRODUCTS to "Chemical Preventatives and Treatments" and read the description for Rid-Ich+. *Then scroll down to KORDON ARTICLES. *Articles in the sections on "Beginning and Advancing Aquarists and Pond Keepers," "Fish Health" (particularly read "The Life Cycle of Ich"), "Water Conditioners," and "Marine Aquarium Keeping" as well as other articles should be of help to you. */.R3

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Make sure you run a good quality Carbon - don't go to petco for some :) I agree with Andy as well - get water running thru a poly filter also. All that with some decent sized water changes frequently and you may be OK for future corals. I don't think those ones you have in the picture will make it out alive, but I hope I'm prooven wrong!

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Got 1.1 pounds of carbonite-p from Upscales. Poured the while thing into the socks the day it happened. It's been a couple weeks now and those corals are trying to come back. It's pretty cool to see actually. Water changes every 3 days or so now.

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thats the right carbon. You are lucky there isnt copper in that med. Things will recover in time, but let this be a good lesson.

research.

if a fish gets sick, look for natural remedies...like better/more stable H20 conditions. Ich is brought on by stress, so what caused the stress?

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