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Help! Adding a 10g display fuge.


Jules

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I have stumbled across a 10g tank with a stand and would like to turn it into a display fuge. I am really bad at plumbing and need some advice on how to go about it without drilling any holes.

From what I have read so far I was leaning towards the CLS but after thinking about it I will have to have that and my 12g in the loop I am all confused now....(scratch)

I have found many threads that helped a little but most have sumps and I don't have a sump and really don't want one either. Overflow box? Maybe? How, what, do I need to make it all work? Help!!!!

 

The only filtration I want is carbon and nature if that helps any. Anything more I can ad that will help let me know. Thanks in advance. :)

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If you don't want to drill you could use an overflow box, or a pvc pipe. In both case you need an aqualifter for security. One should be higher and you pump water up and the flow returns into the lower tank by gravity. The lower tank act as a sump, so it must be able to contain the water from the overflow.

Also a check valve should be used if the tube feeding the top tank ends under the water level.

Hope this helps

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That helps very much! Given to me in language I can understand.

I am not sure how tall the other tank will sit, hopefully gravity to the DT for pods to get there unharmed. ?? I will have to google aqualifter. Thank you.

I need to see some samples graphs and things to really get an idea of what I need to use if you know of any links or anyone who has them posted.

I am good at reading blueprints/schematics too. :) If it is close to what I can do.

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Doing this without a sump is going to be difficult. Shutting down the system could cause flooding in the lower display if it can't handle the excess water from the overflow. Also consider the downfalls if the plumbing is to get clogged in the fuge. The aqualifter is going to flood the tank unless you setup some kind of controller with a float switch.

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IMO an aqualifter is not required for security. I personally will never use one again as they create a spot where air can potentially enter the u-tube if a leak occors allowing the suction to break when it otherwise would never do so. I.E. For security reasons I will never again use one.

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Can you set up the 10g tank so it sits level with the top of the display? If so then you could put a u-tube between them and then use a small pump to keep water flowing between them. You will need to be sure both ends of the u-tube are submerged and then suck all of the air out of the u-tube to create a suction in it. (It will be critical to be sure they are level with each other since the water level will balance out between them)

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Can you set up the 10g tank so it sits level with the top of the display? If so then you could put a u-tube between them and then use a small pump to keep water flowing between them. You will need to be sure both ends of the u-tube are submerged and then suck all of the air out of the u-tube to create a suction in it. (It will be critical to be sure they are level with each other since the water level will balance out between them)

 

I was thinking that too beforehand, the two being side by side, if having the water levels the same will avoid any overflow problems. Again, I am really dumb when it comes to this kind of stuff for some reason. (maybe till I try it huh? lol)

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.... if having the water levels the same will avoid any overflow problems. ......

 

If it is level then avoiding overflow problems will require an airtight u-tube so it will maintain a suction on it regardless of water flow and then you will also need to be sure the pump can't exceed what the tube can handle. For this I think I would use about a 250-300 gph pump to feed the 10g and a 1 inch diameter u-tube for the return. This will give a large safety margin as the tube should be able to handle double that.

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Is there an example of this set-up somewhere that I can look at the get an idea on how it is all hooked up? And' date=' could I leave my hob on the DT with carbon running in it as well? Or would it be better on the fuge?[/quote']

 

I don't know of any diagrams offhand but I can describe it. (It's actually a pretty simple setup to put together)

 

1: Be sure both tanks are level at the top. Preferably close to each other.

 

2: Install 1 or 2 u-tubes that are about 1" diameter. This can vary some depending upon the flow from the feed pump. I would shoot for a 50% safety margin. I.E. If the pump is 300 GPH then I would want the u-tube to handle at least 450 GPH. Be sure the ends are completely submerged on both sides.

 

3: If you want to keep fish, snails, etc. from migrating between them (and potentially clogging it) then add screens to the u-tube ends. Note that this will reduce the rate of flow slightly.

 

4: Add a small pump (or powerhead) with plumbing to feed the 10g tank from the display.

 

The hob with charcoal can stay on the display.

 

Before this is first started you will need to start the siphon on the u-tube or tubes. To do this stick a piece of air tubing up inside the u-tube to the top and then suction the air out. If you use two tubes then the second one may be hard to tell if it has a suction unless it's a clear tube. The first one will usually be pretty easy to tell since the water will balance between the tanks. Once it has a siphon then it will maintain it as long as the ends stay submerged.

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Is there an example of this set-up somewhere that I can look at the get an idea on how it is all hooked up? And' date=' could I leave my hob on the DT with carbon running in it as well? Or would it be better on the fuge?[/quote']

 

leave the filtration on the display. think of the fuge as a filter as well, you don't want to filter a filter. :)

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Sounds simple enough.....we will see when I attempt it.

 

I didn't get the tank today going to try for tomorrow, typical when getting something from Craigslist.

 

Now, how do I go about starting it up. Should I put rubble and LS before they are connected together from my existing tank? Or get new and let it cycle? Or half of the water from my existing tank to that one and add new SW? I am sure most have a fuge from the very beginning so I haven't run across the topic. I don't really think there is enough sand in my DT to put in the fuge so more than likely I will have to get some more for it.

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actually adding a fuge is best later because a new tank won't feed a fuge from the beginning. Depending on the size of your display, if your tank is more than 4-5 times bigger, i would just add fresh saltwater and let it mix in with the display tank. Your fuge can be setup so many different ways, it depends on what you want to put in it. you can have a bare bottom fuge and just use live rock, chaeto or other macro algaes, sand in that small of a tank would only be asthetics and will be a place for detritus buildup. again it really depends on what your planning to do with the fuge before we can give you tips on how to go about doing it.

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No real need to let it cycle. Just mix up new water and treat it like a water change without removing any water. Personally I would just keep it bare bottom unless you put halimeda in there (it needs substrate to attach to). If you already have enough sand and or live rock in the display then I would just keep it a refugium and put macro algae in there.

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I want it to be a fully functional macro algae display tank where eventually when I get a little experience under my belt I could put a seahorse or something in there. A peppermint shrimp maybe, but atm I think I want a sand bed for macros to grow in there. I thought about a deep sand bed but that just doesn't seem like a big enough tank to be doing that. Maybe 1 1/2 to 2 inches at the most.

 

I was researching all the different ways others have been plumbing fuges, and with all the help I have gotten on here, it does seem really simple.

When I use the powerhead in the fuge could I put on the tubes just before going into the DT tank, some sort of valve to stop the water flow to check the tubing and cleaning them out? Must make sure I shut the pump off first I know, but is that plausible?

 

I would put bulkheads in (2) on the display and attach a valve then the hoses to the pump....I can detach the hoses and the pump and clean them now and then.

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most macro algae does not need sand to grow. i would research some slow growing display algae if your going to have horses they usually need special kinds of things to attach to. some macros like caulerpa are aggressive growers and would eventually take over the tank.

if you need sand, i would keep it around 1" and have a few nassarius snails to turn it. How ever you decide to plumb it, just make sure there is more than one way for the water to get back out, any time your pumping water to another tank, the tolerance in your case will be small in case of a problem, so precaution is definitely a necessity in this setup, especially since your pumping from a large volume of water to a small tank. i wouldn't be able to sleep at night if i new there was a good chance i had a tank that could overflow because of a snail or algae build up in a tube.

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I'm not sure if I'm following you on the plumbing.

 

Is the powerhead mentioned going to feed the fuge with water or is it to aggitate the water? The feed pump can be in either tank however if it's in the display and pumps to the fuge then it can be set up to keep the water moving in the fuge. I.E. You may not need a separate powerhead.

 

You mention bulkheads also? Will you be drilling? If so then that changes the plumbing considerably. You can do away with the U-Tubes if you drill both. Be sure to use semi-rigid tubing between them though. I plumbed 2 tanks together for my sump and fuge inside my stand and while I would swear they were perfectly matched up the smaller one cracked. It doesn't leak but nevertheless I'm pretty sure it's because there was no leeway for them to match up to each other.

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I have done a little research on macro algae and what types of inhabitants are do well in a refugium, I still have a long way to go yet.

 

I think this might be good news IDK. The 10g is going to sit a little higher than the 12g, so I may be able to do the gravity feed to the display now.

The tank is in worse shape then I thought, I am going to have to test it to see if it will even hold water. (scary) There are some strands where the epoxy has worn off, I don't think it has been used in a very long time.

 

If I can get away from having to drill that would be way easier, I hate the thought of having to take everything out of the DT. Besides they both are very small to be drilling holes IMO. (nutty) Nothing good came with it just a box of junk used for a feshwater tank. (sad)

 

I don't know the terms to use when it comes to this stuff. So, bear with me it is all foreign to me. (scratch)

The pump I was thinking of just has a in and an out. Return pump? If I have a overflow built into the 10g in the corner I could place it in there? right? Or should I use an external pump? I can always put my Koralia nano in there and use a powerhead?? hooked to the return pump inside the DT for circulation in the DT?

I have been searching all over for an example but everyone drills holes or has biocubes. I really want to do this myself too even if I drive myself and everyone else crazy in the process. (laugh)

post-6292-141867757356_thumb.jpg

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I would try to avoid gravity feeding. If the power fails then all of the water above the level of lower one will drain back into it. That means you would need to make sure there is enough room in it to handle the extra water if it does. If your not drilling then I would keep it simple. Use 2 U-Tubes and a feed line/pump. It can be external. If you pull water from the display and pump it into the fuge then it can provide the aggitation to keep the water moving so an extra powerhead would be optional unless you find that there are dead spots in it that don't move.

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Okay forget about that set-up I didn't realize the fuge was drilled. I am going to avoid having to do that especially with that tank, it is kinda of old I think and that could be a disaster.

 

I have looked over a thread on 3reef about a pvc overflow that may work if I place a plastic bin under the fuge in the cabinet as a makeshift sump.

 

http://www.3reef.com/forums/i-made/nice-cheap-diy-overflow-29396.html

(I could make this no problem)

 

I think I could put the overflow into the fuge and the pump in sump like it says and just hide the pvc behind some sort of DIY box for looks. Most everyone on there is doing it the opposite but already have sumps and skimmers etc. My 12g has a top on it so it seems to make more sense to put it in the 10g that does not have a top on it.

 

Any thoughts?

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