MadReefer Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 You might be doing too many water changes. If things test all good except nitrates, unless they are very high 50+, I would stop water changes and find the source of nitrates or other problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonH Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Is there anything else I could get to assist in reducing Nitrates? Outside of water changes that is... I'm surprised that no one has mentioned bio-load in this thread. Eric, you've always tip-toes right up to that line - and generally over what most people would feel comfortable with in an SPS tank. It could just be spikes in ammonia/nitrates related to fish... waste or feeding (triggers are dirty eaters). And don't I remember that you had posted some time back about not doing regular water changes? 1.022 salinity is low, but I don't think it's low enough to kill anything (but I could be wrong). However, it you corrected it too quickly - that could be an issue. But is sounds like the die-off started before that. Definitely sounds like the die off was too sudden to be pest related. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pledosophy Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 I would stop water changes and find the source of nitrates or other problems. I think 13 fish in a 72g, especially with some of the fish he's keeping, the duncans and other LPS would also contribute to the bioload if they are being target fed, there would be the source of the nitrate. Combine that with a new tank. Factor in a not 0 ammonia reading. Ding Ding Ding. This is one of your problems. Feed your tank as you normally would, then test your ammonia in an hour, then in 4 hours, then in 8. If I had to guess your fish and corals are being poisoned by to great of a bioload and a bacateria population that is not significant enough to clear that load. City water, Are you treating the water with anything. Doing that amount of water changes with untreated water is going to cause you a problem as well. It's not the TDS or phosphate, it is the chloramine and other elements they add to our water. It also varies throughout the year as to what and how much they add. If your using tap water you really need to be treating it with a filter or a product similiar to Amquel+. Compared to what you have in stock, a water filter would have been cheap. Not trying to rub it in at all, just saying it's worth it. Maintenance, I am sure you have heard this, but how often are you checking your equipment. I know your tank is on the new side but how often are you cleaning and inspecting equipment? I myself do not have a ground probe or any type of meter for it. Cut your hand, stick it in the tank (wait you have triggers maybe not a good idea) if it tingles you got a leach. HTH Don't give up bro. This is a little bump. It happens, your still pretty new in your reef career, your gonna have some bumps. We'll help you through them. Just gotta have some faith, some patience and your persistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadReefer Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Very good point. I forgot to mention, stop feeding while you work this out. Your tank should be more than fine for a week or two with little to no feeding. I use Prime when I use tap water. I really like my RO/DI also. How much macro algae is in the tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA2OR Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 I have a good amount of macro. I have had a "dirty" tank for quite some time...but my nitrate problems seems to be almost an over night problem. I have looked for something dead in my tank and haven't found anything. When I removed my canister from the tank I found alot of excess food stuck to the filter foam....which is what I think caused this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA2OR Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 Results from water test at Upscales. Salinity 1.023 Calcium 500 PH 8.1 Nitrates have gone down half of what they were to about 25 Nitrites 0 Amonia 0 Alk and mag "perfect" according to Upscales guy Phosphates 0 Duncan's looked a bit better yesterday then in the previous 3 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Buy your own Alk test kit and give us a number. ALK is KEY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef165 Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Ya, I dont understand why he would give all the other #'s but just say the alk test is good and not give a # for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA2OR Posted December 23, 2009 Author Share Posted December 23, 2009 Shall do . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algae Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 Gotta agree with this. A proper AND STABLE Alk is very important! I have a hunch that you may have spiked it too quickly. The same with the salinity. API makes a cheap Dkh test. I usually buy 10 at a time when they are on sale. I like Salifert, but for ALK I like API. Buy your own Alk test kit and give us a number. ALK is KEY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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