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Display tank size/shape (72 bow, 60 cube, 120 4', 24 pod, ect...)

35-40g?

 

Sump yes/no (if yes approximate size)

Yes. 6 gallons.

 

Refugium Yes/no (if yes is it a combo with the sump)

No.

 

Estimated total gallons to system

41-46g

 

Lighting ( PC, vho, Halides, t-5, a mix)

T-5

 

Time established

About 2 years.

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Okay, a couple of questions.

 

1: If I remove all of the effected polyps what are the chances the remaining ones will be fine?

 

2: Is this going to infect other Zoas around it?

 

I'll be posting my current status in my thread as well but feel this may be pretty important to know because what I have here are in bad shape. (I completely tossed the one I was going to take to Spectra) For the other 2 one had an Eagle Eye so it was pulled out from the competition pieces. This one has 2 polyps that I can't see the infection on (The rest I scraped off and then washed in fresh saltwater). For the piece that was to be my competition piece it only has one polyp left after removing the bits left of the other 4. (They had pretty much disintegrated already anyway)

 

If the answer to number 1 is that the chances are good I will leave them alone now. Number 2 is my biggest concern as I have a good number of Zoas in close proximity to the competition pieces.

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Okay, a couple of questions.

 

1: If I remove all of the effected polyps what are the chances the remaining ones will be fine?

 

2: Is this going to infect other Zoas around it?

 

I'll be posting my current status in my thread as well but feel this may be pretty important to know because what I have here are in bad shape. (I completely tossed the one I was going to take to Spectra) For the other 2 one had an Eagle Eye so it was pulled out from the competition pieces. This one has 2 polyps that I can't see the infection on (The rest I scraped off and then washed in fresh saltwater). For the piece that was to be my competition piece it only has one polyp left after removing the bits left of the other 4. (They had pretty much disintegrated already anyway)

 

If the answer to number 1 is that the chances are good I will leave them alone now. Number 2 is my biggest concern as I have a good number of Zoas in close proximity to the competition pieces.

 

Furan2 is a good good thing. Here's a link to the way to go about it....

 

 

http://www.zoaid.com/articles004.php

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Okay, a couple of questions.

 

1: If I remove all of the effected polyps what are the chances the remaining ones will be fine?

 

2: Is this going to infect other Zoas around it?

 

I'll be posting my current status in my thread as well but feel this may be pretty important to know because what I have here are in bad shape. (I completely tossed the one I was going to take to Spectra) For the other 2 one had an Eagle Eye so it was pulled out from the competition pieces. This one has 2 polyps that I can't see the infection on (The rest I scraped off and then washed in fresh saltwater). For the piece that was to be my competition piece it only has one polyp left after removing the bits left of the other 4. (They had pretty much disintegrated already anyway)

 

If the answer to number 1 is that the chances are good I will leave them alone now. Number 2 is my biggest concern as I have a good number of Zoas in close proximity to the competition pieces.

 

1: Odds are the rest will become infected soon

 

2: Yes it can spread to other zoas

 

 

Good thing though Rick is that this is one of the easier to beat diseases with a great survival rate IME.

 

You are gonna need a QT tank. A small 5 gal or 10gal will do it. A heater and powerhead and a simple CF light. A curly cue type in a work light will do if you must.

 

Remove all the infected zoas and the ones close to those. Get a ziplock bag, as big as you need to hold all these zoas. Before you put the zoas in the bag, fill it with a cup or two of freshly made SW brought to the same temp as your tank. Put 1 packet of furan2 in, close it and mix the water up. Put the zoas into the bag and float it in your sump or tank to keep the temp up. It seems to work better at higher temps. Let them soak for 20 min, rinse and put into QT. Make sure you have good flow over them in QT. This helps get rid of the pox, or slow their spreading. Do this 3 days in a row. Then let them sit in QT for 7 days monitoring them. After 7 days if you still see pox, repeat the procedure.

 

I've had total goner polyps down to a white nodule looking thing come back from this.

 

If you can dip all the zoas in your tank, you can probably get away with just placing them back into the tank. The furan2 doesn't seem to hurt any corals, i've dipped micros and acans in it before as well. But make sure they have good flow over them. And do a WC while you are dipping.

 

Good luck!!!! You can call me if you have other questions, i think i gave you my # didn't I?

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Not sure if I have your number or not. Since there is basically one polyp left I'm pulling it out and will watch the others close to it. I have too much going on this weekend to try to find the furan2 to do this. (Nor do I have the money to spend on it for competition frags that I received infected anyway) I'll just call it a learning experience and hope that the rest of my Zoas don't get affected by it.

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Dang. Those in your pics are definately salvagable.

 

they got a lot worse from that pic.

 

I'll be picking up the furan-2 soon to make sure it doesn't spread though.

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Their is also another product called Bi-Furan which is identical. Some places just don't carry furan2 so this is another option for anybody looking for it. As impur said, very high rate of success and it is actually a great product to have around just to dip new frags in upon entering the display tank. I personally had zoapox on a few frags a while back and the bi-furan did a great job. I only lost polyps that were already in the melting stages.

 

Vans- If you want I'll leave some at franks house for you. Contact him and pick it up if you haven't got any yet.

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Where'd you pick up the bi-furan? I'm going to check petsmart and petco today.

 

I got mine at the local pet store here in Scappoose. The only difference at all is the price. I got almost twice as much for a few bucks less then furan2. We were able to pull up the spec sheet on both products and the ingredients and amounts were 99% identical. If you do get either one follow the suggested directions on zoaid.com( I think that's where it was) not the ones on the bottle as it is really not intended for the use that we use it for....

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The good news is that so far none of my other zoas seem to have been infected although I don't know how fast it would spread. The bad news is that the one remaining polyp I had (which I stuck in another zoa free tank) completely melted down between friday and today. (It already looked bad thursday)

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