downhill_biker Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 Well... you probably only need one dimension narrower than the door so as long as you don't have any crazy corners to get around I would think you could split it either way - two 2x2 cubes or two 4 x 1.5 rectangles. Seems like the squares would be easier to make rigid though. As for strength, I don't think you would really loose anything with this approach as long as each piece individually is screwed and glued. The key would be making sure the two pieces are aligned and leveled before tying them together. I like the idea of the detachable skin. Good Luck! ahh, now i see what you meant. i didn't picture this before. i agree this is a good idea and would come together very strong. i dont think i would be able to split the skin though. but if i make the front panel removable, then the two squares would work great, and i could leave the side panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_biker Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 Oh, screws are muck stronger than nails - - the first time you put them in. I have noticed that they tend to fit a little more loose the second time around. But I would go with screws above nails, for sure. I'm planning to make a stand from 4x4's with mortise and tenon joinery. But I'm a little paranoid. well, what i will probably do is use screws, and a lot of them. i will screw the two halfs (as albertareef mentioned) together, and when it is time to move i will just take the screws out, and when i put it back together, i can just use new screws and make new holes. i do think 4x4 would be major overkill in my case. i looked up specs and builds on RC, and I could probably use 2x4's but am going to be using 2x6 just for security. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrellw Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Oh, screws are muck stronger than nails - - the first time you put them in. I have noticed that they tend to fit a little more loose the second time around. For something like this, I would make sure to get good quality "construction" screws. Don't use drywall-type screws, they are very brittle. If you really need something that you can disassemble, bolts would be a better choice, though more work. -Darrell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 I'm with Darrell, carriage bolts are the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_biker Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 For something like this, I would make sure to get good quality "construction" screws. Don't use drywall-type screws, they are very brittle. If you really need something that you can disassemble, bolts would be a better choice, though more work. -Darrell doh! dont know why i didn't think of bolts. i will just use 3/8" bolts and it will be very strong, but carriage bolts would probably make a mess. i will just drill through holes and use washers and nuts. i like splitting it with 2 shorter cubes rather than two long rectangles. here is a pic of what i am thinking, thanks everyone. let me know if this is what you pictured or what to change. sorry the pic isn't perfect. i used paint to make it, if i had autocad it would be perfect and to scale. the red sides are similar, and the blue sides are similar. the two inner sides have the bolt holes for connecting. the front skin would be removable, and the side skins would stay on permenantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertareef Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 doh! dont know why i didn't think of bolts. i will just use 3/8" bolts and it will be very strong, but carriage bolts would probably make a mess. i will just drill through holes and use washers and nuts. i like splitting it with 2 shorter cubes rather than two long rectangles. here is a pic of what i am thinking, thanks everyone. let me know if this is what you pictured or what to change. sorry the pic isn't perfect. i used paint to make it, if i had autocad it would be perfect and to scale. the red sides are similar, and the blue sides are similar. the two inner sides have the bolt holes for connecting. the front skin would be removable, and the side skins would stay on permenantly. That is exactly the kind of thing I had in mind Curtis! Holding the two together with carriage bolts is perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SULLY Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 Keep in mind guys what is being built. I know it is hard to not want to build this thing like you would build a house. But take a look at any factory manufactured aquarium stand and see how it's built. Even on the big tanks there are usually nothing more than 3/4' plywood with a finished side to look nice. I know I have looked at alot of those stands and said to myself, [language filter], how the hell is that piece of flimsy crap going to hold all that weight. But they always do. So don't smack your head against the wall too hard Curtis trying to figure a way to make this thing like steel. Keep it basic and make it look how you want it to and just take your time. Even the stands I have at the store are way over built for what they need to be. It was just easier and faster at the time to use the 2x4 and the 2x6's. I don't know if you have access to a welder or even know how to weld. But you could do a simple frame out of box steel and then skirt the outside with the wood of your choice. Just a thought. I have a cheesy idea. Take two stands for a 75 or 90 gallon tank and put them back to back. wallaw, problem solved. Just kidding. I wish the manufactures would make the stands taller. I have no idea why they always make them between 28-30 inches. I like them at least 36" or more. Good luck to you brother! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_biker Posted May 10, 2009 Author Share Posted May 10, 2009 albertareef: glad we are on the same page. i thought i knew what you were talking about in design. SULLY: actually i do know how to weld but dont have access at the moment. i am a millwright by trade, and one of my main skills is welding. the rack on the back of my car was built by me, as well as several other things. i have been told that i am top notch welder by all of the places that i have worked as a millwright. now, that said, i built a metal stand once, and don't know if it's the best. mine was just painted using primer, paint, and clear coat, and still rusted. i dont really want to pay a bunch to have it powder coated if wood will work fine. maybe steel is the way to go, but wood seems like it would be more cost effective, and just as nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_biker Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 so i am thinking of starting my stand this week, and was wondering about the frame. do i really need 2x6? or is that just overkill? 2x4 seems like it should be plenty strong, especially since i am only spanning half of the 4' distance with each side. opinions please: i really think it should be ok, but dont want to have a major mess up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tidalsculpin Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 2X4's are fine. I would add a center brace on top and bottom but that's just me. When you add 3/4 plywood or even 1/2 inch ply things will hold the 200 nicely. It should help with controlling torsion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siskiou Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 I agree on 2x4s being plenty strong, seeing how flimsy the materials for the stand I own are, and it still holds up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_biker Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 thanks. i thought it would be fine, but wanted to get other's opinions. susanne, you are right, manufactured stands are very flimsy, and they seem to hold up, so i guess with 2x4's i will almost be overbuilding. joel, if you look at the pic earlier in my thread the stand will be 2 half's and bolted together, so basically it will have a double re-enforced center brace. i dont think i will sheet it for now, i just will use some black material around the bottom. i know it will be kindof cheesy, but i am going to be tearing it down in 3 years, and dont want to make something really nice, that gets trashed in the move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA2OR Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 ok what is the deal with 3 years? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_biker Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 we moved to salt lake city for my fiance to go to the university of utah for grad school. after she gets her Ph D in physical therapy we will be moving. if she gets a good job we may stay here for a couple more years to save money for a house, but either way we plan to move back to Idaho, where we are from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_biker Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 got the 2x4 frame mostly built. for now i will just leave it as the frame with no sheeting. i am only going to be in utah for 3 years, so will probably just use some black fabric to cover it. i know it sounds cheesy, but i would rather not build it and tear it down in a couple years. i was also wondering what heaters i should use. i was looking at some 500w or 800w titaniums, and will probably just get cheap brand since they will be controlled by my controller. what is the rule of thumb for heaters on big tanks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coralreefaquarist Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 where are you moving after utah? id go with cheetah or leopard skin like fabric myself(naughty) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_biker Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 let me borrow your old drag outfit and i can get as much leopard print as i need. after cora is done with school here, we will most likely move back to north idaho. we love it there. it is not set in stone, but we do know that it wont be here. idaho, or oregon, or maybe colorado, or something. somewhere where the outdoors are prime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePremiumAquarium Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 got the 2x4 frame mostly built. for now i will just leave it as the frame with no sheeting. i am only going to be in utah for 3 years, so will probably just use some black fabric to cover it. i know it sounds cheesy, but i would rather not build it and tear it down in a couple years. i was also wondering what heaters i should use. i was looking at some 500w or 800w titaniums, and will probably just get cheap brand since they will be controlled by my controller. what is the rule of thumb for heaters on big tanks? I would go with a couple of 800w titaniums. That is what I use and have had great luck and you know what kind of volume I run. Plus that means a more consistant temp and they are only about $50-$60 each. Garrett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_biker Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 I would go with a couple of 800w titaniums. That is what I use and have had great luck and you know what kind of volume I run. Plus that means a more consistant temp and they are only about $50-$60 each. Garrett so the cheap odyssea or finnex ones are fine? is there a need to run both, or should i just have the other for backup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 If you aren't going to skin it right away, make sure it's stable against shearing forces... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_biker Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 If you aren't going to skin it right away' date=' make sure it's stable against shearing forces...[/quote'] if you look at my diagram on page 3 at the bottom, you can see that i have the top and bottom squares made identical to eachother, with the legs overlapping the joints, and another leg on the adjacent side. is this sufficient? is this what you were referring to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertareef Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Hey Curtis, I think Andy was getting at the issue of torsional (twist) rigidity which would normally be enhanced by fixed sheathing. I doubt it would be an issue on yours but you could address this by adding some cross bracing with tensioned cable if you wanted to. Wouldn't be too hard and would probably make the thing pretty much indestructible. Then again... I could be completely full of it yet again! Andy??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
undrtkr_00 Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Or you could just add some smaller plywood pcs to the very edges - just a few inches past each joint would be plenty, I think. Then hang your fabric outside that. Regarding how much heater you need, I have always heard 3-5 watts per gallon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 I have always just used contractor grade scres for those, there more than plenty strong. Like Sully said don't over think it, you could hold a car up with a 2x4 and most the weight will be on the corners. Just make sure its level and your floor is level, also a pice of foam is a nice idea but I never do it because when you take the tanks off there always flat anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_biker Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 yea, i am overthinking things. but i just dont want to have the tank come crashing down...makes sense, doesn't it? i went ahead and sheeted the top and back for support. the front and sides will still be open, will cover those with fabric as planned. also picked up some 1/2" firm pink insulation foam and will put that between the tank and plywood to help distribute the weight and minimize any imperfections in my woodworking skills...I TELL YOU I AM A WELDER!!! This wood stuff sucks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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